Monday, August 31, 2009

Visit KOREA Blog Contest!

Monday, August 31, 2009

Ethan's KOREAN Adventure was recently registered in the Korea Tourism Organization's blog contest. According to their website, prizes will be awarded to the 100 most popular and active blogs featuring information on Korean travel, culture, and cuisine.

If you haven't visited the Korea Tourism Organization's website (http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/index.kto), I strongly recommend doing so. It's very informative and has proven most useful during my travels in Korea.

Also, I have made some recent improvements to the blog. There is a keyword search at the very bottom of the webpage to help reference past postings and locate information more easily. Listed in the top right hand column of Ethan's KOREAN Adventure are links to the Korean National Parks website along with the Gunpo City website; both of which are informative. In addition to this, I have provided links to various news articles I have compiled during my time in Korea, and which I feel contribute toward a better idea of what life here is all about. These many articles feature stories on Korean culture, food, travel, the people, politics, and economy, social issues, along with many interesting facets of Korean life.

So please check it out and enjoy!

KOREA 4 Month Review

Monday, August 31 at 9:05am

In case you're not keeping score, I'm at the four month mark or approximately 1/3 of my time here in Korea. Sad in a way, but also a milestone and perfect time for reflection of the past four months.

Overall, my time continues to be enjoyable, and I remain pleased with my decision to live/teach here. I have learned many things and met many interesting people in the past four months. In fact, it's been so good I am almost certain I will return for a second year once my contract expires in April 2010. I will, of course, travel home for a one to two month visit in the states prior to starting any new teaching contract. Also, I will most likely seek location in another community so as to see/experience more of the country.

Things I have learned in only four short months:

Korea can be a very affordable place to live. Especially if your rent is paid for, as is the case with many ESL positions. Food is my largest expense (5,000-10,000 Won per meal is average), followed by beer consumption (2,500-6,000 Won per beer depending on the bar), though you can always catch a cheap buzz off a bottle of soju or makgeolli (1,500-2,000 Won) at any convenience market, and they sell it 24 hours a day. There is no apparent limit to how much or when one can drink. It's game on 24-7 if you want, which explains why alcoholism is so prevalent in Korean society.

Furthermore, I am pleased to announce I have actually saved some money during my short time here; roughly 25-40% of my income over the past four months. I have also incurred some expenses, thus dipping into my savings; e.g. trips to the hospital (prior to health insurance), weekend travel excursions, camping equipment, guitar lessons, furniture for the apartment, etc. It's all good though, as I have managed to have a great time, travel lots, and still have millions of Won in the bank. Yes, I said millions.

Teaching continues to go well. I seem to be good at it, and more importantly, I actually enjoy it and really try hard to improve every day. The school and I have had our minor issues, mostly stemming from the fact I do not like to use the textbook in class, prompting some students to try and return it for for a full refund (30,000 Won). The school, I am sure, makes a tidy profit off the books they sell, but unfortunately the books are complete crap. First of all, they are written in a very childish manner, and they do not explain things well or introduce useful terms or phrases. The bulk of my teaching material actually comes from the internet (newspaper articles, worksheets, pronunciation guides, lists of idioms, metaphors, expressions, etc.). It is for this very reason that the school has scolded me numerous times for the number of copies I make each month. Apparently, they are keeping track, as I was told, and shown, I copy twice the number of paper as the other teachers. My reaction, "Really? That's great news! Do I win a prize?" was not met with the same enthusiasm I had hoped for.

As I have stated previously, I really love the students. Because I mostly teach adults, we have some very intellectual discussions on a variety of topics ranging from politics, economic issues, global affairs, cultural differences, travel, books, music, movies, food, sex, drugs, etc. I try to avoid religious discussions in class, and I usually have issues whenever students introduce this topic. Practicing introductions using different greetings is a popular exercise in Ethan's class, as is in-class debates on pre-determined topics. Newspaper articles featuring current stories can be a wonderful teaching instrument, as it allows the students to practice reading aloud (thus assisting with their pronunciation), and provides a topic which the students often find interesting and can comment freely on. Some of the best discussions in recent weeks have been in Business English class. Our topic has been innovation, embracing technology, and how we can incorporate this change into our daily lives, as well as make money doing it. This week in Business English class we will also be completing a case study on the competitive advantage of Starbucks in Korea. All fascinating stuff.

In four months teaching, I have learned students come and students go. Some of these students have become good friends, and others remain friendly acquaintances I sometimes see when traveling in Sanbon or other neighboring communities. Because Sanbon is such a small town, it's easy to see and be seen. Just this week I ran into Sung, 36 year old student and veterinarian from my Monday/Wednesday morning class, while shopping late night at E-Mart. His timing was perfect, actually, as I was in the midst of trying to ask the E-Mart staff where the paper towels were and there was a noticeable communication breakdown. Instead of paper towels, they kept leading me to the toilet paper section. "Ani-o (No), kitchen towels!" Last week, I also had a young waitress introduce herself in the restaurant she was working after she recognized me as one of the teachers at her school. It's good to be recognized. Just hope you are not doing anything too awkward when they see you.

Obviously, most of my friends here are foreign teachers, as we can share stories about our experiences and relate to each other best. I have also befriended some Korean teachers from my academy and other academies. In other words, my closest friends seem to be those with whom I surround myself on a regular basis. Because I am not the clubbing type, I have avoided this part of the Korean experience which many of the younger folk seem to enjoy. This, and the best clubs are in Seoul or other larger cities that require an expensive taxi ride to/from. I am too cheap for this and I would rather indulge myself closer to home at one of the many bars located in Sanbon. I suppose I should get out more. Perhaps I am getting old, or I am just lame. Regardless, I am content with my social life for the most part. I do, however, want to travel to Seoul or somewhere outside Sanbon to listen to live music, especially one of the many jazz bars I have read about.

Other observations:

There are many bookstores located in Seoul and other cities featuring English books. Obviously, they can be very expensive to purchase. The library, however, offers an excellent alternative to this and should be enjoyed by more people. Just last weekend, I introduced my South African friend Marguerite to the Sanbon library. She had never been, and didn't even know it existed.

Almost all Koreans can speak or understand some English. Despite this, it is rare for a Korean to engage in conversation with a foreigner. They often are too nervous or are not confident in their abilities to attempt this. I have found you get the occasional, "hello" or, "where are you from" in passing, but usually you need to: 1) look incredibly lost or confused, or 2) initiate conversation with a Korean. Koreans also seem to enjoy it when you actually try to speak the language. It shows you are making some form of an attempt, and it can go a long way toward earning their respect. In my experience, people usually ask, "how long have you lived here" and they are often amazed with my limited vocabulary (60-70 words?) and pronunciation following only four months. Not bad.

Simply because us foreigners look different than everyone else, I will often get stared at. This happens almost everywhere I go; in the elevator, riding the subway, walking down the street, eating in a restaurant, drinking at a bar, shopping at a store, etc. Young children are chronic offenders, but I suppose this can be cute in a way. After week two, I probably became immune to this, as there is nothing to do about it. Accept it and embrace it. Show off and act colorful. If anyone disproves of your behavior, tell them you're from Canada.

There are many, many foreigners living in South Korea. Over 1.1 million, in fact, or roughly 2.2% of the country's population. Because the country spends so much money trying to learn English (estimated 20 trillion Won or $20 billion U.S.D. in 2006), almost every school and every hagwon has at least one native English teacher. In Sanbon, I usually encounter one foreigner per day. In larger cities, it is common to find many foreigners. And strangely, there is no secret handshake or obligatory greeting. Usually a head nod, or a "hey" or "what's up" is most common. I do feel sorry for Dylan, the poor guy from Canada who was the first way-guk (foreigner) I saw on my third day in Korea. I'm sure I freaked him out as I stared at him for the longest time while he was playing basketball with his young Korean students at the park. I eventually approached him and introduced myself before he asked me what my f***ing problem was. Fortunately, he was receptive to my bewilderment after I explained it was only my third day and he was the first foreigner I had seen. Ah, yes, the good old days when I didn't know a soul, the language, or much of anything here.. It seems like only yesterday..

It goes without saying that the people here are friendly, for the most part. There are always exceptions to this, as your bound to find a few bad apples in every bunch. While I cannot say these individuals were rude or mean, they were, perhaps, short tempered, or better yet, they were not as patient as others I have met. Examples of this include some shopkeepers who did not seem to like foreigners, or perhaps were just too busy to provide the type of customer service we Americans seem to demand. Another example are the older (usually 60+ years age) Korean women, who are notorious for pushing their way through crowds, onto elevators and subways when the doors first open, etc. Even the students I have spoken with consider this sometimes rude, but it also accepted as common practice for these older women to behave in this way. The explanation I was told is they did not have the same economic and educational opportunities as younger generations, and they do not fully understand the changes (western influences or "westernization") which have occurred in the country over the past thirty years.

Koreans generally like to push their way through crowds and are not as respectful of personal spaces as other Western nations. It's the Confucian way. This becomes a bit much at times, especially for someone who tends not to like large crowds and very much enjoys his "personal space." Because the country is so limited in size; surrounded on three sides by oceans and a hostile country to the North, they do not value personal space as much as America, for example. Perhaps it is for this reason that nearly half the country's population resides in the metropolitan Seoul area, some 20+ million residents. Also, many of their homes, especially in newer communities, are large apartment towers filled with hundreds, if not thousands of residents.

Other "minor" irritations include Korean children, who I swear can yell or scream louder than any other children when they cry. The children are not the issue, it's often the parents who allow others to suffer through this painful display of unpleasantness. Also, I have seen many Korean children running around restaurants, Starbucks, and other places you would expect their parents to demonstrate more control over their children. One more item on the topic of children, and something I have mentioned in past updates, is the appalling fact that many parents do not use child seats in their cars. Instead, the children sit on parent's laps (sometimes in the font seat) or freely in the backseat without any type of a safety harness. In the event of a crash (highly likely based on the way many people drive), the child will most assuredly be injured or killed. I don't understand this.

Please don't misinterpret my comments above. I like it here very much and the people are, in fact, a charming bunch and are very friendly. I only provide this information for the readers of this blog to learn more about the country and my observations living here. Besides, I have recently shared this blog address with select students and I don't want them to misunderstand me. Since we all have our good and bad days, and sometimes, even Ethan-Teacher can be moody, these irritations can get the better of you. What's important to remember is that you are in a foreign land, not your own country, and you must save face. Also, there are many cultural differences that we as foreigners cannot comprehend and, no matter how hard we try, will never fully understand. So relax. Be patient. You're living in South Korea. Make the most of your time here. Enjoy it.

Top 5 Favorite things about Korea:
1) the Food - it's fantastic, it's spicy and it's cheap.
2) the People - especially my students, are wonderful, and their friendship is invaluable.
3) the Mountains - they're everywhere and there is always somewhere new to explore.
4) the Culture - it's what led me here in the first place and a special thanks to Dr. David Nemeth at The University of Toledo. I would never have made the journey without his teachings.
5) the Women - they're truly beautiful and always provide something pleasant to look at.

I hope you find this information of interest and of value. As always, thanks for reading.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

KOREA Week XVII Review

Thursday, August 27, 2009 at 8:15am

This past weekend I traveled to Busan, South Korea's second largest city and the largest seaport in the country. Both Greg and his roommate, Brian, also a Toledoan, were gracious hosts and treated me to a fantastic time. Travel to/from Busan via KoRail/KTX was relatively easy and only four hours travel time. Cost of the round-trip ticket; 65,000 Won.

Sanbon to Suwon - 30 minutes via subway
Suwon to Daejeon - 1 hour 30 minutes via KoRail
DaeJeon to Busan - 2 hours via KTX (high speed rail)

As many folks may recall, I originally wanted to locate in or near Busan, but could not locate an Adult teaching position there. Instead, I was left with the decision between two Adult hagwons in the suburban Seoul area, thus my current location in Sanbon, approximately 45 minutes Southwest of Seoul. Because of this, I treated the past weekend as a test to confirm or disprove my initial preference of Busan. Unfortunately, and following last weekend's enjoyment, I must announce that I like Busan very much and wish I lived there.

First of all, the beaches are wonderful and there are many mountains to enjoy leisurely hikes and the outdoors. It's also warmer, perhaps 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit, in the winter months instead of the colder Midwestern-style winters made famous by the greater Seoul area. Also, many people suggest the people are friendlier in the South, as there is a large influx of Japanese along with other Asians who enter the country through the port city. Strangely, I have learned the inhabitants of Seoul and other Northern provinces believe the Busan folk are less educated and not as cosmopolitan as themselves, so there's a kind of inferiority complex amongst the Korean people. I suppose it would be somewhat similar to New Yorkers opinions of themselves compared with Southerners from Atlanta or Florida? Maybe. In addition, some students have suggested Busan folk are less conservative and more promiscuous in nearly all their affairs. In other words, it's my kind of town.

As if these reasons weren't enough, Greg and Brian share a ridiculous apartment with magnificent views of the seaport and the Sea of Japan (East Sea). Their apartment complex is located at the very Southeastern-most point of Busan, which is also the Southeastern-most point of the Korean continent, the apartment is brand new, and most units probably sell for around 600,000,000-1,000,000,000 Won (roughly $500,000-800,000)? It's insane, three large bedrooms and two full baths for only two people, perhaps 2,500 square feet, and it features some of the most futuristic built-in electronics I have ever seen. Seriously, it's like something out of The Jetsons. Video intercom system, keyless locks, and a remote call feature for the elevators are all standard fare. They also have a proper kitchen complete with full-size refrigerator, dishwasher, gas range, and expensive looking cabinetry. I am so freakin jealous of their set-up, but they both are extremely generous hosts, so I cannot complain too much. Plus, Greg dropped a handsome key money deposit to be able to afford it, which I definitely could not pony up.

The reason for the trip was a party they hosted Saturday night as a house-warming event. It was a great party, with good food, good people, good music, and lots of booze. Because they both work in an adult hagwon, many of their students and faculty members were present, so it was nice to meet them and interact with other Koreans. Some of the attendees were young Korean girls (students), who became increasingly friendly as the night progressed and the more alcohol they consumed. Nuff said on this topic.

Both Saturday and Sunday afternoons, we visited Gwangalli Beach, a 1.4 kilometer long beach located only a ten minute cab ride from their apartment, and prominently situated in what seems to be the heart of the city. Straight outta Wikipedia, "The beach is popular among younger crowds for its distinct cafes and restaurants, as well as a few nightclubs. The beach sits inside a cove spanned by the Gwangan Bridge, which is colorfully lit up at night." This bridge is newly constructed in 2003 and spans 7,420 meters, making it the longest bridge in South Korea. There were many beautiful women found sunbathing at the beach, and it was a terrific place to relax, enjoy the scenery, and toss the frisbee.

Following a late Saturday night (almost 5am), we found ourselves eating cheeseburgers truly the size of your head late Sunday afternoon and prior to my return trip home. The cheeseburger was incredible, the best I have eaten in Korea, and was only 12,000 Won. Considering the size and the ingredients, it was a bargain.

In summary; I love Busan and I can't wait to return for another visit. Four hours travel time is not far, despite what some may say (see paragraph below), and the city met or exceeded every expectation. I'm thinking maybe Busan, should I decide to teach a second year in Korea. Maybe..

Here's a Korean observation that I find interesting. Many students have told me they have never been to Busan, despite the fact it is only four hours by train. Their reason is just that; it's too far to travel. Because Korea is so small (roughly the size and shape of Indiana), Koreans do not like to travel for distances greater than two hours. So, in fact, I have actually visited more places in only four short months than many people who have lived here their entire lives. That's really crazy, especially when you consider I have a long list of places I want to visit in Korea over the next eight months, and places I hope to return to. Four hours, the same distance I traveled to SeorakSan National Park back in July, is also the distance from my hometown to Chicago, and is not a difficult drive by any means.

Other happenings in my so called Korean life:

I have registered for classic guitar lessons to be held every Wednesday afternoon and starting next week. Lessons will be conducted at the Gunpo Children's Center, which is also for adults, and the cost is only 90,000 Won for 15 weeks' classes. A bargain.

Currently, I am searching for a new barber. The man who cut my hair since week three in Korea has vanished from the barbershop, leaving me with a crazy haired woman who currently has two strikes against her. I really liked the original barber because he quickly learned how I wanted my hair to look like and I never had to tell him a second time. The woman, well, perhaps her crazy permed hair should have been a telling sign of what was to come. Seriously, she looks like Rhea Perlman from Cheers or a 1980's Geena Davis, and it is incredibly rare for a Korean to have such frizzy hair. The first time she cut my hair I thought maybe I was being overly critical since it wasn't the usual guy. The second time, however, she completely shaved off my sideburns despite the fact I explained to her multiple times to leave them they length they were. When, after I realized the mistake on the first sideburn and told her this, she left the second completely untouched as if I wanted them to be lopsided. WTF? As American friend John so appropriately pointed out, "it's the little things."

Speaking of John, I have completed the purchase of my new leather couch and chair, and today I took delivery from his apartment, as he leaves August 30 for Boston. While it's sad to see him leave, I am loving my new set-up. Also, he tells me he has signed another year's contract at a new school located only 15 minutes from Sanbon and will return in two months. Purchase price of a less than one-year old leather sofa, suede chair, three plants in clay pots, and wine rack: 100,000 Won + 30,000 Won moving expense via delivery truck. Another amazing deal, worth every Won.

This couch will be available to any and all friends or family who have mentioned visiting me in Korea. It was purchased with you in mind, you are each welcome to crash on it, and I truly hope someone besides me will use it for this purpose.

Ban-gap-sup-ne-da! (Welcome)

Thursday, August 20, 2009

KOREA Week XVI Review

Thursday, August 20, 2009 at 10:55pm

Korean Independence Day was Saturday, so there were no classes on Friday. This holiday actually celebrates Korea's independence from Japan following the end of World War II in 1945. To celebrate, Canadian friend Alvin and I traveled to the Taean Peninsula and spent the weekend camping at Mongsanpo Beach, one of Korea's most famous beaches. The Taean Peninsula is also the home of Taean Haean National Park, a 325 square kilometer peninsula, with over thirty beaches, and some 230 kilometers of pine tree filled shoreline. Yes, it's beautiful, and yes, it reminded me very much of Northern Michigan.

Travel time was three hours via KoBus, departing from Anyang at 10am and arriving at the campground around 1pm. Both Friday and Saturday nights were treated to a marvelous sunset with a fire-red sun filled sky. It was gorgeous. The campground, however, was packed full with Korean families of all shapes and sizes. We, of course, were the only way-guks (foreigners) and we demanded attention everywhere we went. It was so crowded that when we awoke late Saturday morning, 11am, we were surrounded by new neighbors on all sides of us. Normally, this would not be an issue, except our neighbors conveniently parked their automobiles within five feet from each of our tents. A little inconsiderate if you ask Alvin and I, and an infringement on our small campsite. Not cool.

The temperature Saturday was easily pushing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, so a dip in the Yellow Sea was a must. Since we were the only foreigners in sight, we also seemed to be the only men swimming with our shirts off. It's a crazy thing, but Koreans go to the beach near fully clothed. I don't understand it. Koreans do, however, know how to camp. Since this is only my second time visiting a campsite in Korea, I remain even more impressed with the tent and portable kitchen set-ups Koreans pack with them when camping. It's truly amazing. Also, the very first thing they seem to do within 30 minutes after arriving and pitching their tents is cook up a fantastic looking meal on the grill. It's almost as if the meal is the true destination and the real reason behind their weekend excursion. They don't mess around. I love it.

Regarding food, Alvin and I cooked up some delicious bulgogi and dak-galbi, accompanied by kimchi, rice and pasta dishes, and ever-popular Cass beer. I purchased a small propane powered grill (only 20,000 Won on sale) to assist with the cooking, and it was one of the best purchases I have made. On the negative side of the weekend, one of my two tent poles snapped, and I sliced my finger while attempting to correct this issue. A minor setback, but easily fixed. The other negative part of the weekend were the mass swarms of mosquitos that descended upon the coast this weekend. Writing this post now, I still have bumps up and down my legs and covering my feet. They were relentless.

Finally, this leaves me with the Sunday bus ride home. It seems KoBus sold more bus tickets than available seats, so we were forced to stand the entire three hour ride to Anyang Station. Seriously. It was a terrible experience and I wish I were joking about this. Every time the bus stopped at one of the four or five scheduled stops, maybe two people would exit and another five or six would come aboard. The bus driver tried to tell the oncoming passengers there were no seats available but they kept on coming. We were literally packed like sardines and left standing in the aisle of the bus. At one point I counted the number of passengers standing in the aisle. 32. The experience was entirely bullshit if you ask me, and it has left Alvin and I preliminarily discussing the purchase of a cheap automobile for future travels.

South Korean news this week:

Monday - 37-year-old South Korean golfer Yong-Eun Yang wins the 91st PGA Championship. An incredible golf match and an equally incredible day for South Korea athletics. Golf is popular with the wealthy and many businessmen in Korea, but some have suggested it's popularity will increase rapidly amongst young players, similar to Tiger Woods' effect some twelve years ago in the U.S., following this triumphant victory.

Tuesday - Ex-President Kim De Jung dies from pneumonia at age 85. This is the second former President to die within my short four months in Korea, and another tragic loss for the country. The country is, once again, in mourning, though this time is not as shocking as the last. I will admit I did not know much about President Kim prior to his death, but I have since learned a great deal about this distinguished leader and his remarkable political career. Some interesting facts:

The 15th-Term President of Korea (1997-2003); served in Korean politics for over 45 years, he is the only Korean to receive the Nobel Peace Prize, he survived at least one assassination attempt leaving him with a permanent limp, he was kidnapped by the South Korean military in 1973 and taken to sea where he was to be executed but was instead saved by a covert operation involving the American CIA, he was placed under house arrest for almost seven years, he was imprisoned for over two years as a political prisoner in South Korea, he was once charged with sedition and sentenced to death, he lived in exile for two years in the United States, he was re-arrested immediately after his return from exile in the U.S. and once again placed under house arrest, and he successfully founded several political parties, including; the Party for Peace and Democracy as well as the National Congress for New Politics. In addition to these many achievements, he is accredited with being the first truly democratic president in South Korean history, the first South Korean President to engage in peace talks with North Korea (2000), and he is responsible for leading South Korea through it's turbulent financial crises and I.M.F. bailout during the late 1990's.

Wednesday - South Korea delays it's 502 billion Won ($402 million U.S.D.) rocket launch for the seventh time since 2002. What was supposed to be an inaugural day for South Korean aerospace suffers yet another setback in it's troubled, non-existent space history.

Other happenings this past week: I continue to cook in my apartment, especially since I have recently discovered all meats on sale at E-Mart after 1030pm. This past week, I prepared grilled steaks on more than one occasion, and despite what my good friend Dan from Chicago may say, it can be a Korean influenced meal if you add red pepper flakes and grilled kimchi to it. And the beef quality is not half bad. It actually makes for a delicious meal, especially when you serve it over a bed of white rice with a side of grilled garlic cloves. Yum!

Unfortunately, it was while eating one of these garlic cloves on Tuesday that I nearly passed out and died on the floor of my apartment. The garlic, apparently, was not fully cooked and was so potent there was an intense pain in my chest, my throat swelled shut leaving me gasping for air, and this grown man was reduced to tears. I literally crawled to the refrigerator where I drank milk from the jug to help cure my ailment. Why milk, I'm not sure, but it was the first thing I saw during this panic attack. Seriously. I love garlic and normally cannot get enough of it, but this was some type of magic garlic clove and it hurt me bad. Later that night, I experienced some of the wildest dreams ever and crazy ridiculous night sweats.

This Saturday, I will travel to Busan for the first time. A fellow Toledoan named Greg is hosting a party at his apartment Saturday night and has graciously invited me to come down and stay the weekend. I am very excited about this trip, as Busan was my first choice when selecting cities to live in Korea. Busan is the second largest city in South Korea; they call it "Seoul in the South", and it's located directly on the ocean at the Southeastern tip of the peninsula. Greg, who has lived in Korea for many years, was also very instrumental in helping me prepare for my experience; answering my many questions and providing tons of useful information. His advice was, in fact, priceless, and I look forward to partying with him Saturday.

More updates next week. Have a great weekend.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

KOREA Week XV Review

Thursday, August 13, 2009

The first week of August classes ended better than they started, and as the week progressed, I was careful to avoid any classroom mistakes with YouTube, especially when teaching young children. Other classroom happenings; we have been listening to songs in several classes and discussing the lyrics. It's a great learning tool for the students and they seem to really enjoy this. It also gives the students some control on the class content, as they are each responsible for introducing the songs and providing the lyrics for discussion. For some reason, Queen, Eric Clapton, and Norah Jones are all popular with the students and it is almost guaranteed one of these artists will appear in every class. Another popular song, for some bizarre reason, is the song "Way Back into Love" from the Hugh Grant/Drew Barrymore movie Music and Lyrics. I have no idea why this song is so popular in Korea, but it is.

Another popular classroom discussion has been cosmetic surgery, as this is a most popular trend in South Korea. I have read reports which suggest some 30% of college students have cosmetic surgery, and most of my students agree it's a positive thing for young people to change their appearance. The double eye lid surgery is among the most popular, thus making Koreans eyes appear more Western and less Asian. This is one example of how meaningful looks and beauty are in Korean society. It's also a prime example of how Westernized this country has become. Aside from the university name on your diploma, looks are one of the most important things when applying for a job and assured success in Korean life. Also, it seems to be one of the first things Koreans not only notice about people, but are quick to comment on when meeting someone for the first time. A comparison to a Western movie star can sometimes be soon to follow this analysis. As an example, I have been compared to Bruce Willis and Kiefer Sutherland on numerous occasions. Seriously. The Bruce Willis comparison has been made maybe fifty times, and Kiefer Sutherland or, "the guy from 24", perhaps twenty times or so.

On Saturday, Alvin and I traveled to Seoul to visit the famous Yongsan Electronics Mall; a giant ten story building filled with numerous vendors and every type of electronic device imaginable. One of the favorite Korean electronics I discovered is the deluxe toilet seat, which is not only heated, but also features the following wash cycles; regular wash, turbo wash, feminine wash, and a drying cycle. Yeah, it's that thorough. Cost of the deluxe toilet seat is a mere 500,000 Won. Other noteworthy items at the Yongsan Mall include several large camping displays, along with many computer outlets, camera stores, and television sellers.

Unfortunately, the prices here are not as incredible as I had previously been led to believe. It seems that in recent years, the popularity of the internet has meant the sellers at Yongsan cannot compete like they used to. So, while I was hopeful to find an inexpensive camcorder, I was unsuccessful in my efforts. I did, however, manage to make friends with an attractive girl named so So-Young, who was working at one of the stores, and we exchanged telephone numbers.

Even though there are not as many bargains as it may seem, there are some deals, depending on what you are searching for. For example, I located inexpensive computer speakers, along with other miscellaneous computer and audio equipment. We also found an incredible discount on a 22" flat panel television, but one must have an LG discount card and an LG credit card to fully utilize the 70% savings.

What I learned from the day's experience is the best discounts are just prior to closing (7pm) when the stores are hopeful for any last minute sales to complete their day. It is here that I found the sellers most aggressive on their prices, especially when you consider there doesn't seem to be any set prices or price tags on items. Instead, I had to ask the attendants for their assistance, which was incredibly frustrating because many did not seem to enjoy speaking with me, and some even wanted me to make them an offer before they would disclose their price. In other words; it did not seem like they wanted my business or were willing to compete with other sellers to earn it. Also, I found the price on the same model camcorder ranged between 250,000-350,000 Won, depending on the mood of the seller. Overall, it was a slightly exhausting experience, but the free beer at the Cass party in the mall's courtyard made the day's end better.

On Wednesday, I met with So-Young from the electronics mall in Yongsan. We visited the National Museum of Korea (my second time) and later enjoyed chili bulgogi dinner in the GwanghaMun district of Seoul. Let me tell you, it really sucks having to return home after such a pleasant afternoon, and when things are going so well, to teach 8pm class. Alas, I hope to rendezvous with her again soon.

Some of the American teachers I have befriended over the past four months will soon finish their teaching contracts, and return to the U.S. or Canada. It's sad because we are each here on a different schedule, so naturally there will be some overlap with myself and many of the others during the course of my year in Korea. On the bright side of this, I hope to finalize the purchase of a couch from American friend John who will soon depart for Boston. Others who are completing their year long contracts are arranging to have their excesses shipped back to their native lands or will place in storage until they return to teach another year. They are a good bunch and I will miss them.

The end of Monsoon Season here in the East Orient has brought extremely high temperatures and humidity to the region. It's reminiscent of the hot and humid temperatures that plague the Midwestern United States in the summer months, and I seem to be so very familiar with. Recent temperatures have ranged between 80-100 degrees Fahrenheit or maybe 28-33 degrees Celsius. Because of this, afternoon hiking has temporarily ended for me, and mid-afternoon naps have once again become my favorite thing to do.

This weekend is a three day holiday, Korean Independence Day, so I have plans to go camping Friday through Sunday. After changing my destination several times, I have finally decided on the Taean Peninsula along the Western shore of Korea. I have heard it's a popular tourist spot in the summer months because of the great beaches and numerous campgrounds. It's also home to a disastrous oil spill in December 2007, though I have read, and I hope, that cleanup efforts were successful. My only hope is it's not too hot and not too crowded.

Peace out.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

KOREA Week XIV Review

Tuesday, August 4, 2009 at 2:38pm

Another week. Another Won.

I saw my first full-length Korean movie this past week. Korean teacher/friend Jessica and I had burrito lunch in Beomgye followed by an afternoon at the movie theater. We saw the recently released Korean film, Take Off, about the 1998 Korean Olympic ski jump team. Obviously, the film was in Korean, which I did not mind because I could follow along fine without an understanding of the dialogue, and Jessica was more than willing to fill in any gaps. The movie was great; humorous in all the right spots and an endearing story. I later learned that the Koreans took home several medals that year, and again four years later at the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City. Also this week, I discovered a DVD rental store in Sanbon, so I have been busy renting videos from there. The cost for a one night rental is 1,500 Won. Last night's movie was Frost/Nixon, which I equally enjoyed. Tonight's feature is Valkyrie.

July classes (month 3) ended on a quiet note. Most students are on vacation the last week of July and the first week of August, so attendance is low. Since Korean schools are on holiday now, many parents use this opportunity for some type of obligatory family holiday. Some companies are even closed during this time, except my language school, of course, because we have no dedicated summer vacation like the many other hagwons. While many foreign teacher friends are off this week scuba diving in the Philippines, camping on Cheju Island, eating sushi in Japan, partying in Hong Kong, or sightseeing in Cambodia, I remain in Korea teaching the less fortunate and more dedicated students who remain behind to study English. Other students have discussed their upcoming vacation plans in class, and many fathers have complained about the impending expense and dreadful duties of a full week spent with the family. It's funny to listen to them vent their frustrations about spending entire days with their kids, when, it would seem, all they wanna do is relax by themselves and drink soju.

Sadly, there were no late night hikes to SuriSan this week. No Teddy Pendergrass and no monsoons. In fact, I did my best to be in bed every night this past week between midnight and 12:30am. Perhaps it was the absence of my foreign friends, or the desire to achieve more than 3-4 hours sleep in a night. Either way, it felt good. I have also resumed cooking in my apartment. Some of my favorite meals this week include marinated bulgogi, Australian strip steaks from E-Mart, pan fried tofu with sesame oil and red pepper flakes, pasta with white cheddar sauce (gift from the U.S.), poached eggs, cereal, and scones with a Korean strawberry jam. All delicious.

To add to the culinary experience, I have been sampling red wines, including a semi-sweet Spanish wine that sells for only 5,500 Won at 7-Eleven, and an Argentinean Cabernet for 6,500 Won at E-Mart. Sweet wines are most popular in Korea, and dry reds from the West coast of the U.S., South America, or Europe are limited in selection and expensive, so finding a semi sweet red or Argentinean Cab at a decent price in Sanbon is actually a blessing. Enjoying wine with meals in restaurants, at home, or anywhere else in Korea is something I very much miss, and I probably have not communicated this as much as I should. For as much as Koreans love their alcohol, and as delicious as Korean food is, it is a major disappointment that more dishes are not paired with yummy wines to enhance the flavors. Instead, crummy Korean beers and Korea's own interpretation of East Asian firewater (soju) are the favorite pairings.

I taught Saturday morning class again this week, and afterwards B.H. and I traveled to Seoul for a Han River cruise and a trip to historic Gwanghamun. The boat ride is something I have wanted to do since viewing the Han for the first time and after reading several travel articles about this. The one and a half hour boat ride left at 3:30pm from Yoeuido, the financial capital of South Korea, which is somewhat similar to lower Manhattan. The Han River is wide, maybe one kilometer in parts, and it divides Seoul into Northern and Southern halves as it flows West toward the Yellow Sea. Surprisingly, there were not many boats other than the occasional ski boat or jet ski rental, but the views provide an interesting perspective to the size and vastness of this city. Cost of the boat ride was only 14,000 Won, which, I should add, included a magic show for the kids.

Saturday, August 1 was also the grand opening of the recently completed boulevard in Gwanghamun, so there were thousands of people gathered for the ceremony and to view the gardens. Gwanghamun is the historic location of many government offices, including the presidential palace (the Green House), and the U.S. Embassy. Gwanghamun was also the site of many former Japanese buildings during the colonial rule in the early to mid twentieth century, most of which, have been torn down. Another black eye in the sorely bruised national history that is Korea.


After Gwanghamun, we walked around Gyeongbokgung Palace (one of three historic palaces in Seoul) and visited Samcheong-Dong, quaint neighborhood located next to Gwanghamun and the palace, where we shared another fine samgyeopsil dinner and enjoyed mak-ju (beer). The trip to Gwanghamun was not complete without a visit to Seoul's largest bookstore, located in the basement of the subway station, and home to a rather large English selection. Here I purchased two books, a map of Korea, and successfully applied for the Kyobo Book Club and discount card. Best part of the membership; there was obviously some type of confusion when the staff entered my information and my card is written with the word "Name" as my actual last name. So from now on I will be known as, "Mr. Name Ethan" at the bookstore. Watch out.

Monday classes begin month four for me. While I am always excited to meet new students, I am sad to see some students leave. James, a student from Step 4 class Tuesday/Thursday mornings, announced he is taking the month of August off to travel with his family and "catch a rest." Eugene, a student from another Tuesday/Thursday Step 4 class, is interviewing and completing job training this month, so she has retired from her class. Kate, a 28 year old student from Monday/Wednesday Step 5 class, is eight and a half months pregnant and will soon burst or give birth. I'm not sure which. Je-Heon, a business student from Tuesday/Thursday night class, left last week to begin his graduate studies at Texas A&M University, so the other business students and I joined him after class Tuesday to celebrate over a couple of beers at Wa Wa Western Bar and offer some last minute advice prior to his departure. Other students have disappeared for weeks at a time, then reappear one day suddenly as if they never missed a class. Teacher James warned me of this when I first arrived, but I am just now experiencing this. I have said this many times before, but I really love my students and it's always great to see them, especially after a one month hiatus. As for the students who attend class regularly, I have noticed tremendous improvement with their English, and most importantly, their confidence when speaking both inside and outside the classroom.

Other happenings:

So I agreed to teach a children's class this month, Korean age 10. Day one of class, the students told me they did not know Bugs Bunny so I searched for a quick "what's up doc" video on YouTube to introduce them. Unfortunately, the video I accidentally selected (first result in the YouTube search) was actually an imitation bugs bunny cartoon from Family Guy. It featured Bugs Bunny saying his famous line moments before Elmer Fudd shot the rabbit several times. At first, unaware of my mistake, I thought Bugs Bunny was somehow faking this and would turn out fine, but just as I was starting to wonder how this was possible, Bugs Bunny lay in a bloody mess and Elmer Fudd reached down and broke the neck of the wascally wabbit. No joke. It was disturbing to watch even as an adult. Fortunately the kids did not cry, but the look on their faces suggested they did not like the video, nor did the seem to like Bugs Bunny very much. The saddest part of all, 10 year old student Christina told the class five minutes earlier that her favorite animal was a rabbit. I wish I had realized my mistake sooner, and I wish I were making this story up.

I discovered cheap incense, a 60 pack for only 900 Won, at the discount store last week. After my discovery, I spent nearly twenty minutes attempting to describe an incense holder to the clerk using hand gestures and simulating a burning incense reed. Just before giving up the cause, the clerk directed me to a tucked away corner of the store containing the fireworks selection, which I was previously unaware of, but most pleased to learn about. No incense holder, but a wealth of fireworks.

Twenty minutes must be the featured time this week, for that's approximately how long I waited at McDonald's today. Since this was only my second visit to McDonald's in Korea, I can tell you the burger was not that tasty, and the McDonald's employees were horribly inefficient. After watching them for only a few minutes, I realized the crew were not very skilled at multi-tasking; something, which is a necessary part of almost any service job, especially in fast-food. And, to add further enjoyment to the passing time, I watched a young Korean man attempt to juggle two large trays of food, only to drop them both, spraying coca-cola and french fries over half of the people waiting in line. I can honestly say I saw it coming and moved out of the way just in time. Unfortunately, the young Korean man did not have the same foresight, as he was carefully trying not to spill the two large trays of food instead of watching the back of the woman he walked directly into. Good stuff.