KOREA Week XXXI

Monday, November 30, 2009

After 31 Weeks in Korea, it's Thanksgiving back home, and the start of the Christmas season. I'm struggling with the fact that this is my first Thanksgiving holiday away from family and friends in the U.S., but I am hopeful for a FedEx package containing turkey leftovers, especially stuffing and mashed potatoes (see below).

Actually, I celebrated the Thanksgiving holiday rather well, considering my absence from North American soil. It all stared Thursday afternoon when I traveled to Seoul with my good friend, Gemma, for Thanksgiving lunch in The Oak Room of the famous Millennium Hilton. After spending several hours researching this, I learned there are a handful of restaurants in Seoul which offer a Thanksgiving "dinner", though most are a traditional dinner served 6-9pm, and thus, unavailable to someone like me who teaches at night. So, lunch was the next best option, which led us to the Oak Room at the Hilton; one of two restaurants offering a buffet lunch.

The buffet was a fantastic assortment of gourmet foods; an infusion of traditional Western items such as turkey with gravy, roast beef au jus, combined with some of the more traditional Asian classics such as kimchi and sashimi tuna, and paired with a spectacular bottle of Chilean carmenere, which, I must admit, balanced the flavors perfectly. Price aside, it was a great lunch, followed by a delightful two hour nap before that evening's classes. My only complaint, and a somewhat serious one; there was no stuffing or mashed potatoes to be found.

Friday night, I spent with a large group of foreigners in Sanbon, commiserating together and celebrating the American holiday over a long night filled with many, many drinks. We started at Outback Steakhouse for dinner (it was my first time eating at Korean Outback), and later progressed to some local watering holes. The group of roughly fifteen foreign teachers was actually composed of mostly Americans, along with one or two Canadians, and a European of Irish descent. While it was, in fact, a celebration, we were all missing our families and together enjoyed many lengthy discussions about the things we miss most.

Korean Thanksgiving, or Chuseok, is actually very similar to North American Thanksgiving, aside from the obvious differences, e.g., turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, and football. Because of the similarities, it's easy for many students and Korean friends to understand the emotions we foreigners feel during this time away from home. Chuseok is probably the most important Korean holiday, followed by the Lunar New Year, and Korean Independence Day. Similar to the American holiday, it's also the busiest travel day, and like most Korean holidays, it's a lunar holiday so the actual date changes each year. This year, Chuseok fell on a Saturday, October 3rd, and you may recall, I spent the four day weekend visiting friends in Pusan.

Moving on; a word about the notorious Swine Flu, or H1N1, as it is more commonly referred to:

So far, it has been reported that 82 people have died in South Korea from the virus, prompting the country to declare a red alert status. This has also caused a bit of a paranoia amongst the locals, as many are seen wearing surgical masks, and many public events have been cancelled in an effort to prevent transmission. While I funny support preventative measures against this pandemic, I do, however, have a few issues with some people's overreaction, and I sometimes take issue with the mask itself.

First of all, I have researched the effectiveness of the surgical mask and I have learned that, if worn properly, they can help reduce the spread of the virus, so I will acknowledge that. They do, however, also prevent a sense of false safety, and in my opinion, some people's actions can be hypocritical at times. As an example, one would think that more people would wash their hands after using the restroom, coughing, sneezing, etc. Instead, I continue to witness many people exit the restroom without washing, including those wearing masks. Example number 1.

Another example is the incessant spitting that is popular with most Korean men. Seriously, it's difficult to walk down the street, any street, without hearing someone clearing their throat and spitting on the walkway. No wonder people remove their shoes when entering homes. The spitting is so popular I have actually seen some people spit on the floors in public buildings, and drunken men clear their throats and hurl into an ashtray at a restaurant. It can be really, really disgusting at times. Example number 2.

What actually prompted me to comment on this subject was something I witnessed while visiting the temple in Haenam last weekend. There was a group of twenty-something girls touring the temple and many were wearing masks. Not an uncommon sight, but what was most intriguing about this was they each peeled back their masks to drink from the communal ladle which rests in the fountain. So my question following this observation, is the logic behind wearing a mask to prevent disease when you are not afraid to drink and press to your lips a ladle that is commonly shared by hundreds, if not thousands of others?? Example number 3.

I'm certain that many of these behaviors are not limited to South Korea and the Korean people, and so my comments are not meant to sound overly critical. Instead, I am only providing keen observations regarding public health and people's reaction to the pandemic.

Other noteworthy events:

Ski resorts in Gangwon Province have reported snow and are welcoming visitors. I am aware of five resorts located in Gyeonggi Province, or within a two hour trip from my home, and another six located in Gangwon Province. Plus, there are many resorts located throughout the Southern mountains. Many offer free shuttle service, all welcome snowboarders, and ticket prices seem reasonable. I can't wait to go.

Yuna Kim, the 19 year old international figure skating champion, continues to reign supreme following her seventh straight victory at last week's Grand Prix Skate America. Apparently, she broke her previous high score and world-record of 76.28 points. Because I know absolutely nothing about figure skating, nor do I pretend to, I will not mention anything further about this subject, other than she is a national hero and native of Sanbon. Her picture is everywhere, including a large banner on the side of Gunpo City Hall, and numerous endorsements throughout the country.

My good friends at the Korean Tourism Organization have announced 2009 was a record-setting year for tourists to visit South Korea. As of November 23rd, over 7 million visitors have landed on Korean shores, which is a 14 percent increase over the estimated 6 million visitors seen in 2008, and a two-fold increase over the 3.5 million visitors in 1994. What is most remarkable about this number, however, is that other Asian nations reported a 6 percent decrease in tourism numbers this year, with China and Japan leading these numbers at 14 and 25 percent respectively. The announcement comes at a time when worldwide tourism numbers are down almost 9 percent, mostly attributed to the worldwide recession and the increasing spread of H1N1.

The Korean Tourism Organization is currently in the midst of an aggressive marketing campaign, targeting overseas visitors and promoting the many wonderful attributes of South Korea, including the low value of the Won, which makes shopping advantageous for foreign visitors. I'd also like to think my blog had something to do with it, but I shall remain humble, and instead, encourage my friends and family to visit South Korea and eat some kimchi. Remember, mi couch su couch.

Lots of love in Korea and Happy Thanksgiving!

KOREA Week XXX

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Haenam Peninsula

The past weekend was another three day weekend, so once again, I took advantage of the situation and visited more of the Korean countryside. This time, my travels took me to the Southeastern-most tip of the Korean peninsula, Haenam, located in the scenic South Jeolla Province. Following this trip, I can proudly say I have visited three of four corners of the South Korean peninsula, something which, many of my Korean students have yet to do.

Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province) is a mostly agricultural area that produces rice, cabbage, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, and a variety of seafood. The seaside location can be a popular tourist destination in the summer months, though it was rather deserted in late November. I read there are an estimated 2,000 islands along the coastline as it is surrounded by the Yellow Sea and the Cheju Strait or South Sea. What is even more impressive; I have read that only 500 or so of these islands are inhabited.

The 7am bus ride from Anyang to Mokpo lasted four hours and cost 22,000 Won. A separate bus (5,000 Won) takes another two hours and runs from Mokpo to the tiny fishing village of Ttangkkeut, which literally means "land's end" or "edge of the land." There are many accommodations to choose from in Ttangkkeut, though a 40,000 Won hotel room with internet and satellite tv was selected for Friday night's stay. Perhaps Ttangkkeut is most famous for the 40 meter high observation tower that provides fantastic 360 degree views of the coastline and the peninsula. Tram service is available for those unable or unwilling to climb the stairs to the top. There is also a monument marking it's southernmost location and a platform shaped like the bow of a ship. All in all, it's a beautiful place to watch to relax, watch the sunset and enjoy the fresh sea air.

Both Saturday and Sunday were spent in the Daeheung Mountain area, visiting Daeheung Temple, and other scenic locations. The bus ride to Daeheung lasted roughly one hour from Ttangkkeut, and Saturday night was spent in another fine Korean hotel complete with internet and satellite tv. Believe it or not, but this is actually a rare treat when traveling in the countryside. Dinner both days included a seafood noodle dish, makgeolli (Korean rice wine), and pajun (Korean pancake with vegetables and squid). Most delicious.

The Daeheung Temple is another fine example of Korea's rich history and tradition involving Buddhism. Actually, it's one of the oldest temples in Korea. Apparently, it's original construction date is unconfirmed, though many believe it dates back to the Silla Kingdom (550 A.D.). There are many mountains surrounding the temple grounds, including Mt. Dury, which tops out at 700 meters.

There is a cable car to the top of Mt. Dury, which, unfortunately, we ran out of time to do. Looking back, this is probably the biggest regret of the weekend, as I have since read the views from the top are awesome. In retrospect, the six hour bus ride can seriously crimp one's style and add an unwelcome scheduling conflict to any weekend. This, and the traditional Sunday night traffic adds another two hours to the trip, which is a major argument in support of traveling via car and adhering to your own schedule.

I can honestly say that the Southern tip of Ttangkkeut is one of my favorite destinations in Korea. It's also one of the most photographed sites in Korea, which is how I originally learned of its existence.

Peace, love, and happiness.

KOREA Week XXIX

Thursday, November 19, 2009 at 11:49pm

When I reflect back on the past seven months, I have made many friends in Korea, and I am incredibly thankful for this good fortune. My time here would not be nearly as enjoyable and comforting without their companionship. Some of these friends have originated as students, and some have been introduced through various channels of my Korean stay. Others have emerged simply as a result of being a foreigner in a foreign land. Regardless of the origin, I can proudly say the many friendships I have forged have been one of the best parts of this trip.

My very first student, who quickly became a good friend, screen golf partner, travel guide, advisor to all things Korean, etc., has recently moved to a neighboring city, located approximately 20 minutes by car or one hour via bus and subway. After sixteen years living in Sanbon, B.H. and his family have relocated to a larger and newer apartment with more modern features, which they hope will appreciate in value at a higher-rate than their somewhat stabilized home in Sanbon. While I will miss him in Sanbon, he has told me he will remain a student, at least through the end of this month.

Even though I fully expected to meet many friends, I did not expect these friendships to impact me as much as they have. My friendship with student B.H. is a perfect example this. Despite our obvious age difference (52 years vs. 32 years), we remain close, and have served each other well during a time of transition for each of us. Remember, he is an automotive engineer who spent nearly 25 years with Hyundai, and most recently, three years with Delphi Automotive before the company suspended their Korean operations earlier this year. Soon, he will begin a new job, and thus, will be unable to continue his English studies.

Even though I am incredibly pleased for his success, I do not look forward to the approaching day when he will no longer be a student. Our discussions have always been strong, even at 6:30 a.m., and our topics have covered a wide range. In so many ways, it is he who has been the teacher, and I the student.

Other news:

Two weeks ago I wrote about Korean GPS units and their impressive dual function capability as both satellite navigation and television. Recently, the Korean equivalent of the Supreme Court ruled that driving while watching television on a dashboard-mounted GPS is perfectly legal. This decision is a major relief to most taxi drivers, who regularly enjoy watching television, both while waiting for potential passengers and while driving. Crazy, eh?

Other comments regarding the Korean GPS units; in addition to the split-screen satellite TV feature, I recently learned that many also feature a red light warning system, which is mostly used by taxi drivers to speed up or slow down when approaching the intersection, or do a U-turn in the middle of the street and detour to avoid the red light. Another useful feature identifies the current fuel prices at any gas station, and, most importantly, a warning device when approaching the notorious photo radar enforcement. Navigation, it would seem, is only a small and insignificant feature when compared with the other capabilities of each device.

The weather continues to change significantly, and recent temperatures have dropped to around a 30 degree average with lows hovering in the mid 20's at night. It's ridiculously cold for this time of year, and it's not even December yet. Damn! But, I'm pleased to finally have my winter jacket to keep me warm.

To ease with the cold temperatures, Koreans have a unique in-floor heating system called Ondol. The design is nothing remarkable, except that, according to some reports, it's been in Korea for around 1,000 years. This system is essentially copper tubing filled with hot water and located beneath the wooden floors, but it's sure to help keep any room warm and your ass comfortable. It's common in most homes and some restaurants, especially those with floor seating. Remember, most Koreans eat while sitting on the floor and many continue to sleep on the floor at night, instead of using a bed. Personally speaking, I have slept on the floor maybe 3 or 4 times, and I'm pleased to report the Ondol system works incredibly well.

Unfortunately, both my apartment and hagwon are without Ondol, and thus, the temperatures often fluctuate. While lately, I have been trying to keep my apartment at a toasty 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 Fahrenheit), I sometimes wear a winter hat in class to keep warm, and often lounge about in my queen-size fleece blanket (20,000 Won - CostCo) while "chilling" at home.

In addition to the Ondol, many Korean foods help keep your insides warm. Popular winter foods in Korea are just about anything spicy, or served in the typical Korean style of scalding one's mouth when eating. Actually, there are many delicious soups and stews (jjigae), to accompany the many wonderful dishes which are cooked table-side, to remain warm. So if a restaurant is without Ondol, just locate a table with it's own grill and exhaust system. It's easy to find. This, and one or two bottles of soju will usually aide in the warming process.

That's the news. Stay warm.

KOREA Week XXVIII

Thursday, November 12, 2009

I took a two to three hour nap every day this past week. Perhaps it was the change in seasonal temperatures, or my own efforts to defend against the troublesome Swine Flu. Either way, it was marvelous. The exception was last Friday's nap, when I awoke suddenly at 6:20 p.m. and was convinced it was morning, so I quickly jumped into the shower, all the while trying to understand how all my clocks could read p.m. instead of a.m. and wondering how I managed to sleep through my morning alarm. Damn...

Temperatures dropped significantly last week, with lows of 30 degrees Fahrenheit Monday and Tuesday nights. Brrrrr... Despite this, the fall colors remain beautiful and the leaves continue to drop. While there has been no snow or ice in the metropolitan Seoul area, the first snowfall was reported in the Eastern mountains of Gangwon Province. Alas, it's definitely sweater weather and quickly approaching the time for winter jackets, hats, gloves, etc. I am reminded, however, just how similar the temperatures continue to be, when compared daily with temperatures back home in the Midwest.

Most important update; the swine flu epidemic has grown immensely, with reports last week of over 8,000 residents daily testing positive for this. Hygienic masks are extremely popular, and hand wash stations have emerged in public buildings all throughout Korea. It's what all the kids are talking about nowadays, and many schools have actually closed for the week because of outbreaks. In fact, my hagwon canceled my Junior level class for the month of November, which is not necessarily a bad thing to have one less class to teach this month, plus it gives me more time to sleep in the afternoons.

What is most alarming about the swine flu epidemic, from a foreigner's perspective, is how easily many Koreans are influenced by the mass media, and their own personal phobias. As an example, there is a perception that us foreigner's are somehow the root of this evil problem, and it is noticeable, at times. For example, I have seen many Koreans decline to enter the elevator once they see me standing in the car, or quickly pull their children away from my direction and cover their mouths with the hygienic mask when in my presence. Again, not everyone acts this overly-sensitive, but it can, and does happen.

To further exemplify this situation, the Korean National Student Aptitude Test was held today, Thursday, November 12th. This is, perhaps, the most important day for any high school student, as there is only one opportunity to take this examination, and the result, will determine not only college acceptance, but a student's chances for success in any career path and dramatically affect the outcome of their life in Korea. It's amazing to think there is no opportunity for a re-take, and a poor score, sadly, causes many suicides each year. One student described the mentality behind this as being similar to the Olympic games. You have months, even years to prepare for this one day, and it is up to you to perform well, or else.

So, one would think, that with the swine flu epidemic currently in full gear, that the government would allow some form of exception to those students who are infected or suggest an alternative plan to prevent students from spreading the disease. Again, one would think. Instead, infected students continue to attend classes and private tutoring sessions, and study at the library and other public places, for upwards of twenty hours per day, to "cram" for the big day. What's even more amazing, is many parents continue to push their children towards this path of success, despite the obvious side effects. Apparently, the test is that important.

Another example of the negative swine flu reaction, was two weeks ago when my good friend, Gemma, and I visited the Incheon Global Festival. Days prior to our visit, there were reports that many workers at the festival tested positive for influenza, so attendance was destined to be low and sanitary precautions were increased. So, as we approached the entrance gate, and upon realizing I was a foreigner, we were immediately led to a special entrance (apparently, for those high-risk attendees) so the staff could check my temperature and test for other visual signs of influenza. Seriously; no joke. We also had to walk through some type of anti-bacterial spray booth upon entering. I will admit, it was a little unsettling, even for an open-minded and thick-skinned individual such as myself to experience this type of treatment, especially, in a country I have grown to respect and enjoy in so many ways.

On a more positive note, the Incheon Global Festival (http://english.incheonfair.org) was an 80 day event established to help promote the economic and business capabilities of South Korea's third largest city, and encourage, or show off their new growth initiatives. It was cool to see, as there were numerous exhibitions, international cultural events, futuristic and new technology displays, along with a host of other promotions to satisfy a seven hour day. Honestly speaking, I wish we had more time to enjoy the sights.

Six million people attended the festival over an 80 day period, only one million short of the ambitious seven million goal, and officials have recently declared success at increasing Incheon's notoriety as, "one of the most dynamic urban development models." Incheon, located approximately one hour West of Seoul, is currently home to Korea's largest airport, Incheon International Airport, also voted the number one airport in the world according to the International Airports Council. It is also home to Western Korea's largest seaport, and it has rapidly become Korea's most important transport and global business center. Incheon is almost two hours from Sanbon by subway because one must first travel North to Seoul and then West toward Incheon. Incheon can also be reached in only one hour by bus or taxi service for, of course, a slightly higher cost.

Despite my somewhat negative observations concerning the influenza outbreak, life continues to be well in the South of Korea. Obama makes his inaugural visit to Seoul next week, and hopefully, the North Korean Navy will not provoke any additional acts of violence toward their neighbors and sworn-enemies to the South.

Stay healthy.

KOREA Week XVII

Late October/ early November happenings:

New classes and students to commence month seven in The Orient. Low enrollment meant that one of my classes was cancelled, so I have extra free time this month and can actually eat dinner before 10pm on Mondays and Wednesdays. Yeah!

Mostly, classes are well and I have begun to implement new materials and reformat the class structure this month. My relationship with the students continues to be the highlight of my job, and it is always pleasurable to speak with them, both inside and outside the classroom.

It was recently brought to my attention that I may have a new neighbor staying in the room immediately adjacent to mine. While this may seem like a pleasant surprise and some much needed company, I enjoyed my solitude and I dislike having to be aware of my music levels, especially late at night. Besides, the walls are paper thin and already I have heard more from my new neighbor than I care to. So this could get interesting.

My one-burner electric range has bit the dust. Apparently, the UniMax 1550 HDC model is no match for Ethan's overzealous cooking habits. It's okay, actually, as I much prefer the Kovea KR-0906 model portable gas stove I originally purchased for camping, but have since adopted as a permanent feature in my kitchen. I will, most likely, have to purchase a second cooking apparatus, as one stove is simply not enough when you cook lots, and more importantly, cook well.

While I once thought cooking in my apartment would be an affordable alternative to frequently dining out, I, sadly, was mistaken. Gourmet tastes, and the premium prices which accompany the Western ingredients I often use, make this difficult to achieve. I suppose it's okay, though, as I have made some incredible dishes in recent weeks. Another trip to Costco (90,000 Won) and a fully-stocked pantry help make this possible.

This week's highlight, by far, was the Sunday trip to Bundang and breakfast at Butterfinger Pancakes. Bundang is located roughly one hour Southeast of Seoul via its own subway line, and is one of the most affluent regions of Seoul. Distance from Sanbon is approximately thirty minutes by car. Its a beautiful area with many modern apartment complexes, and a riverfront park which surrounds the Tancheon River. There are many upscale restaurants and coffee houses located here, including Butterfinger Pancakes, which is, without a doubt, the most Western-style breakfast restaurant I have seen in Korea. Two of us ordered bacon and eggs, french toast, a tall stack of pancakes, and a side dish of macaroni and cheese. They even had real maple syrup to float the french toast and pancakes in! A generous portion of each and all delicious, though, cost was somewhat expensive at 35,000 Won. It was, however, well worth it and I plan to return again soon.

Automotive news:

Hyundai Motor Company and it's junior, Kia Motors Corp., continue to impress me, on many levels. First of all, many students work for, or are in some way involved with them, so it's easy to discuss in class and learn about them. Also, Hyundai and Kia both dominate the passenger car and truck market in Korea, so they are a sort of national pride. What is most impressive, however, is the fact that Hyundai and Kia's market share in the U.S. grew 49% and 45% respectively over the past year. This is, in fact, despite, a global recession, and at a time when other manufacturers, including popular Japanese rivals, continue to battle declining sales. It's actually, astounding.

Amidst this success, Hyundai's quality continues to improve, and many believe, the company is truly building a world-class product. As an example, take a look at the recently unveiled fifth-generation Hyundai Sonata. It's sleek, stylish, and vastly improved over previous models. All this, and, it will be priced less than competitive Toyota and Honda models; namely the Camry and Accord. Other notable mentions include the recently redesigned Hyundai Tucson, the Kia Forte, Kia Soul, and my personal favorite, the Hyundai Genesis; 2009 North American Car of the Year. As if this weren't enough, the Equus line, Hyundai's premier luxury line, goes on sale in North America sometime in late 2010. Remember when Lexus first debuted in 1989 and exactly how Toyota's U.S. market percentage has grown since then? Think similar thoughts.

Toyota, bizarrely, was recently introduced to the Korean marketplace in mid-October. Since then, I have seen many television commercials advertising their three vehicle lineup they are selling, and I have seen many new Camrys, Prius's, and RAV4's hit the streets. It's actually like a status symbol to drive a foreign automobile, even a Toyota, against a product offered by the more traditional Hyundai, Kia, GM Daewoo, Renault-Samsung, or Ssangyong Motors.

Other technology:

The Apple iPhone is set to launch soon in South Korea, though, there is much controversy surrounding the application fees and monthly service fees offered between Apple and the local carriers, namely SK and Korea Telecom (KT). Hopefully, this matter will resolve itself soon, for the introduction of the Google-based Droid is fast approaching, and sadly, it offers more gaming opportunities; something, which, most young Koreans will consider important.

Korean GPS units, found in almost every automobile, feature many functions and are truly, state of the art. What is most unique, however, is the television feature and split-screen function. That's right, satellite television in the front seat of the car while navigating the busy streets of Seoul and Korean highways. As if most Korean drivers weren't bad enough without this distraction..

Stayed tuned.