KOREA Week XXXI

Monday, November 30, 2009

After 31 Weeks in Korea, it's Thanksgiving back home, and the start of the Christmas season. I'm struggling with the fact that this is my first Thanksgiving holiday away from family and friends in the U.S., but I am hopeful for a FedEx package containing turkey leftovers, especially stuffing and mashed potatoes (see below).

Actually, I celebrated the Thanksgiving holiday rather well, considering my absence from North American soil. It all stared Thursday afternoon when I traveled to Seoul with my good friend, Gemma, for Thanksgiving lunch in The Oak Room of the famous Millennium Hilton. After spending several hours researching this, I learned there are a handful of restaurants in Seoul which offer a Thanksgiving "dinner", though most are a traditional dinner served 6-9pm, and thus, unavailable to someone like me who teaches at night. So, lunch was the next best option, which led us to the Oak Room at the Hilton; one of two restaurants offering a buffet lunch.

The buffet was a fantastic assortment of gourmet foods; an infusion of traditional Western items such as turkey with gravy, roast beef au jus, combined with some of the more traditional Asian classics such as kimchi and sashimi tuna, and paired with a spectacular bottle of Chilean carmenere, which, I must admit, balanced the flavors perfectly. Price aside, it was a great lunch, followed by a delightful two hour nap before that evening's classes. My only complaint, and a somewhat serious one; there was no stuffing or mashed potatoes to be found.

Friday night, I spent with a large group of foreigners in Sanbon, commiserating together and celebrating the American holiday over a long night filled with many, many drinks. We started at Outback Steakhouse for dinner (it was my first time eating at Korean Outback), and later progressed to some local watering holes. The group of roughly fifteen foreign teachers was actually composed of mostly Americans, along with one or two Canadians, and a European of Irish descent. While it was, in fact, a celebration, we were all missing our families and together enjoyed many lengthy discussions about the things we miss most.

Korean Thanksgiving, or Chuseok, is actually very similar to North American Thanksgiving, aside from the obvious differences, e.g., turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, and football. Because of the similarities, it's easy for many students and Korean friends to understand the emotions we foreigners feel during this time away from home. Chuseok is probably the most important Korean holiday, followed by the Lunar New Year, and Korean Independence Day. Similar to the American holiday, it's also the busiest travel day, and like most Korean holidays, it's a lunar holiday so the actual date changes each year. This year, Chuseok fell on a Saturday, October 3rd, and you may recall, I spent the four day weekend visiting friends in Pusan.

Moving on; a word about the notorious Swine Flu, or H1N1, as it is more commonly referred to:

So far, it has been reported that 82 people have died in South Korea from the virus, prompting the country to declare a red alert status. This has also caused a bit of a paranoia amongst the locals, as many are seen wearing surgical masks, and many public events have been cancelled in an effort to prevent transmission. While I funny support preventative measures against this pandemic, I do, however, have a few issues with some people's overreaction, and I sometimes take issue with the mask itself.

First of all, I have researched the effectiveness of the surgical mask and I have learned that, if worn properly, they can help reduce the spread of the virus, so I will acknowledge that. They do, however, also prevent a sense of false safety, and in my opinion, some people's actions can be hypocritical at times. As an example, one would think that more people would wash their hands after using the restroom, coughing, sneezing, etc. Instead, I continue to witness many people exit the restroom without washing, including those wearing masks. Example number 1.

Another example is the incessant spitting that is popular with most Korean men. Seriously, it's difficult to walk down the street, any street, without hearing someone clearing their throat and spitting on the walkway. No wonder people remove their shoes when entering homes. The spitting is so popular I have actually seen some people spit on the floors in public buildings, and drunken men clear their throats and hurl into an ashtray at a restaurant. It can be really, really disgusting at times. Example number 2.

What actually prompted me to comment on this subject was something I witnessed while visiting the temple in Haenam last weekend. There was a group of twenty-something girls touring the temple and many were wearing masks. Not an uncommon sight, but what was most intriguing about this was they each peeled back their masks to drink from the communal ladle which rests in the fountain. So my question following this observation, is the logic behind wearing a mask to prevent disease when you are not afraid to drink and press to your lips a ladle that is commonly shared by hundreds, if not thousands of others?? Example number 3.

I'm certain that many of these behaviors are not limited to South Korea and the Korean people, and so my comments are not meant to sound overly critical. Instead, I am only providing keen observations regarding public health and people's reaction to the pandemic.

Other noteworthy events:

Ski resorts in Gangwon Province have reported snow and are welcoming visitors. I am aware of five resorts located in Gyeonggi Province, or within a two hour trip from my home, and another six located in Gangwon Province. Plus, there are many resorts located throughout the Southern mountains. Many offer free shuttle service, all welcome snowboarders, and ticket prices seem reasonable. I can't wait to go.

Yuna Kim, the 19 year old international figure skating champion, continues to reign supreme following her seventh straight victory at last week's Grand Prix Skate America. Apparently, she broke her previous high score and world-record of 76.28 points. Because I know absolutely nothing about figure skating, nor do I pretend to, I will not mention anything further about this subject, other than she is a national hero and native of Sanbon. Her picture is everywhere, including a large banner on the side of Gunpo City Hall, and numerous endorsements throughout the country.

My good friends at the Korean Tourism Organization have announced 2009 was a record-setting year for tourists to visit South Korea. As of November 23rd, over 7 million visitors have landed on Korean shores, which is a 14 percent increase over the estimated 6 million visitors seen in 2008, and a two-fold increase over the 3.5 million visitors in 1994. What is most remarkable about this number, however, is that other Asian nations reported a 6 percent decrease in tourism numbers this year, with China and Japan leading these numbers at 14 and 25 percent respectively. The announcement comes at a time when worldwide tourism numbers are down almost 9 percent, mostly attributed to the worldwide recession and the increasing spread of H1N1.

The Korean Tourism Organization is currently in the midst of an aggressive marketing campaign, targeting overseas visitors and promoting the many wonderful attributes of South Korea, including the low value of the Won, which makes shopping advantageous for foreign visitors. I'd also like to think my blog had something to do with it, but I shall remain humble, and instead, encourage my friends and family to visit South Korea and eat some kimchi. Remember, mi couch su couch.

Lots of love in Korea and Happy Thanksgiving!

KOREA Week XXX

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Haenam Peninsula

The past weekend was another three day weekend, so once again, I took advantage of the situation and visited more of the Korean countryside. This time, my travels took me to the Southeastern-most tip of the Korean peninsula, Haenam, located in the scenic South Jeolla Province. Following this trip, I can proudly say I have visited three of four corners of the South Korean peninsula, something which, many of my Korean students have yet to do.

Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province) is a mostly agricultural area that produces rice, cabbage, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, and a variety of seafood. The seaside location can be a popular tourist destination in the summer months, though it was rather deserted in late November. I read there are an estimated 2,000 islands along the coastline as it is surrounded by the Yellow Sea and the Cheju Strait or South Sea. What is even more impressive; I have read that only 500 or so of these islands are inhabited.

The 7am bus ride from Anyang to Mokpo lasted four hours and cost 22,000 Won. A separate bus (5,000 Won) takes another two hours and runs from Mokpo to the tiny fishing village of Ttangkkeut, which literally means "land's end" or "edge of the land." There are many accommodations to choose from in Ttangkkeut, though a 40,000 Won hotel room with internet and satellite tv was selected for Friday night's stay. Perhaps Ttangkkeut is most famous for the 40 meter high observation tower that provides fantastic 360 degree views of the coastline and the peninsula. Tram service is available for those unable or unwilling to climb the stairs to the top. There is also a monument marking it's southernmost location and a platform shaped like the bow of a ship. All in all, it's a beautiful place to watch to relax, watch the sunset and enjoy the fresh sea air.

Both Saturday and Sunday were spent in the Daeheung Mountain area, visiting Daeheung Temple, and other scenic locations. The bus ride to Daeheung lasted roughly one hour from Ttangkkeut, and Saturday night was spent in another fine Korean hotel complete with internet and satellite tv. Believe it or not, but this is actually a rare treat when traveling in the countryside. Dinner both days included a seafood noodle dish, makgeolli (Korean rice wine), and pajun (Korean pancake with vegetables and squid). Most delicious.

The Daeheung Temple is another fine example of Korea's rich history and tradition involving Buddhism. Actually, it's one of the oldest temples in Korea. Apparently, it's original construction date is unconfirmed, though many believe it dates back to the Silla Kingdom (550 A.D.). There are many mountains surrounding the temple grounds, including Mt. Dury, which tops out at 700 meters.

There is a cable car to the top of Mt. Dury, which, unfortunately, we ran out of time to do. Looking back, this is probably the biggest regret of the weekend, as I have since read the views from the top are awesome. In retrospect, the six hour bus ride can seriously crimp one's style and add an unwelcome scheduling conflict to any weekend. This, and the traditional Sunday night traffic adds another two hours to the trip, which is a major argument in support of traveling via car and adhering to your own schedule.

I can honestly say that the Southern tip of Ttangkkeut is one of my favorite destinations in Korea. It's also one of the most photographed sites in Korea, which is how I originally learned of its existence.

Peace, love, and happiness.

KOREA Week XXIX

Thursday, November 19, 2009 at 11:49pm

When I reflect back on the past seven months, I have made many friends in Korea, and I am incredibly thankful for this good fortune. My time here would not be nearly as enjoyable and comforting without their companionship. Some of these friends have originated as students, and some have been introduced through various channels of my Korean stay. Others have emerged simply as a result of being a foreigner in a foreign land. Regardless of the origin, I can proudly say the many friendships I have forged have been one of the best parts of this trip.

My very first student, who quickly became a good friend, screen golf partner, travel guide, advisor to all things Korean, etc., has recently moved to a neighboring city, located approximately 20 minutes by car or one hour via bus and subway. After sixteen years living in Sanbon, B.H. and his family have relocated to a larger and newer apartment with more modern features, which they hope will appreciate in value at a higher-rate than their somewhat stabilized home in Sanbon. While I will miss him in Sanbon, he has told me he will remain a student, at least through the end of this month.

Even though I fully expected to meet many friends, I did not expect these friendships to impact me as much as they have. My friendship with student B.H. is a perfect example this. Despite our obvious age difference (52 years vs. 32 years), we remain close, and have served each other well during a time of transition for each of us. Remember, he is an automotive engineer who spent nearly 25 years with Hyundai, and most recently, three years with Delphi Automotive before the company suspended their Korean operations earlier this year. Soon, he will begin a new job, and thus, will be unable to continue his English studies.

Even though I am incredibly pleased for his success, I do not look forward to the approaching day when he will no longer be a student. Our discussions have always been strong, even at 6:30 a.m., and our topics have covered a wide range. In so many ways, it is he who has been the teacher, and I the student.

Other news:

Two weeks ago I wrote about Korean GPS units and their impressive dual function capability as both satellite navigation and television. Recently, the Korean equivalent of the Supreme Court ruled that driving while watching television on a dashboard-mounted GPS is perfectly legal. This decision is a major relief to most taxi drivers, who regularly enjoy watching television, both while waiting for potential passengers and while driving. Crazy, eh?

Other comments regarding the Korean GPS units; in addition to the split-screen satellite TV feature, I recently learned that many also feature a red light warning system, which is mostly used by taxi drivers to speed up or slow down when approaching the intersection, or do a U-turn in the middle of the street and detour to avoid the red light. Another useful feature identifies the current fuel prices at any gas station, and, most importantly, a warning device when approaching the notorious photo radar enforcement. Navigation, it would seem, is only a small and insignificant feature when compared with the other capabilities of each device.

The weather continues to change significantly, and recent temperatures have dropped to around a 30 degree average with lows hovering in the mid 20's at night. It's ridiculously cold for this time of year, and it's not even December yet. Damn! But, I'm pleased to finally have my winter jacket to keep me warm.

To ease with the cold temperatures, Koreans have a unique in-floor heating system called Ondol. The design is nothing remarkable, except that, according to some reports, it's been in Korea for around 1,000 years. This system is essentially copper tubing filled with hot water and located beneath the wooden floors, but it's sure to help keep any room warm and your ass comfortable. It's common in most homes and some restaurants, especially those with floor seating. Remember, most Koreans eat while sitting on the floor and many continue to sleep on the floor at night, instead of using a bed. Personally speaking, I have slept on the floor maybe 3 or 4 times, and I'm pleased to report the Ondol system works incredibly well.

Unfortunately, both my apartment and hagwon are without Ondol, and thus, the temperatures often fluctuate. While lately, I have been trying to keep my apartment at a toasty 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 Fahrenheit), I sometimes wear a winter hat in class to keep warm, and often lounge about in my queen-size fleece blanket (20,000 Won - CostCo) while "chilling" at home.

In addition to the Ondol, many Korean foods help keep your insides warm. Popular winter foods in Korea are just about anything spicy, or served in the typical Korean style of scalding one's mouth when eating. Actually, there are many delicious soups and stews (jjigae), to accompany the many wonderful dishes which are cooked table-side, to remain warm. So if a restaurant is without Ondol, just locate a table with it's own grill and exhaust system. It's easy to find. This, and one or two bottles of soju will usually aide in the warming process.

That's the news. Stay warm.

KOREA Week XXVIII

Thursday, November 12, 2009

I took a two to three hour nap every day this past week. Perhaps it was the change in seasonal temperatures, or my own efforts to defend against the troublesome Swine Flu. Either way, it was marvelous. The exception was last Friday's nap, when I awoke suddenly at 6:20 p.m. and was convinced it was morning, so I quickly jumped into the shower, all the while trying to understand how all my clocks could read p.m. instead of a.m. and wondering how I managed to sleep through my morning alarm. Damn...

Temperatures dropped significantly last week, with lows of 30 degrees Fahrenheit Monday and Tuesday nights. Brrrrr... Despite this, the fall colors remain beautiful and the leaves continue to drop. While there has been no snow or ice in the metropolitan Seoul area, the first snowfall was reported in the Eastern mountains of Gangwon Province. Alas, it's definitely sweater weather and quickly approaching the time for winter jackets, hats, gloves, etc. I am reminded, however, just how similar the temperatures continue to be, when compared daily with temperatures back home in the Midwest.

Most important update; the swine flu epidemic has grown immensely, with reports last week of over 8,000 residents daily testing positive for this. Hygienic masks are extremely popular, and hand wash stations have emerged in public buildings all throughout Korea. It's what all the kids are talking about nowadays, and many schools have actually closed for the week because of outbreaks. In fact, my hagwon canceled my Junior level class for the month of November, which is not necessarily a bad thing to have one less class to teach this month, plus it gives me more time to sleep in the afternoons.

What is most alarming about the swine flu epidemic, from a foreigner's perspective, is how easily many Koreans are influenced by the mass media, and their own personal phobias. As an example, there is a perception that us foreigner's are somehow the root of this evil problem, and it is noticeable, at times. For example, I have seen many Koreans decline to enter the elevator once they see me standing in the car, or quickly pull their children away from my direction and cover their mouths with the hygienic mask when in my presence. Again, not everyone acts this overly-sensitive, but it can, and does happen.

To further exemplify this situation, the Korean National Student Aptitude Test was held today, Thursday, November 12th. This is, perhaps, the most important day for any high school student, as there is only one opportunity to take this examination, and the result, will determine not only college acceptance, but a student's chances for success in any career path and dramatically affect the outcome of their life in Korea. It's amazing to think there is no opportunity for a re-take, and a poor score, sadly, causes many suicides each year. One student described the mentality behind this as being similar to the Olympic games. You have months, even years to prepare for this one day, and it is up to you to perform well, or else.

So, one would think, that with the swine flu epidemic currently in full gear, that the government would allow some form of exception to those students who are infected or suggest an alternative plan to prevent students from spreading the disease. Again, one would think. Instead, infected students continue to attend classes and private tutoring sessions, and study at the library and other public places, for upwards of twenty hours per day, to "cram" for the big day. What's even more amazing, is many parents continue to push their children towards this path of success, despite the obvious side effects. Apparently, the test is that important.

Another example of the negative swine flu reaction, was two weeks ago when my good friend, Gemma, and I visited the Incheon Global Festival. Days prior to our visit, there were reports that many workers at the festival tested positive for influenza, so attendance was destined to be low and sanitary precautions were increased. So, as we approached the entrance gate, and upon realizing I was a foreigner, we were immediately led to a special entrance (apparently, for those high-risk attendees) so the staff could check my temperature and test for other visual signs of influenza. Seriously; no joke. We also had to walk through some type of anti-bacterial spray booth upon entering. I will admit, it was a little unsettling, even for an open-minded and thick-skinned individual such as myself to experience this type of treatment, especially, in a country I have grown to respect and enjoy in so many ways.

On a more positive note, the Incheon Global Festival (http://english.incheonfair.org) was an 80 day event established to help promote the economic and business capabilities of South Korea's third largest city, and encourage, or show off their new growth initiatives. It was cool to see, as there were numerous exhibitions, international cultural events, futuristic and new technology displays, along with a host of other promotions to satisfy a seven hour day. Honestly speaking, I wish we had more time to enjoy the sights.

Six million people attended the festival over an 80 day period, only one million short of the ambitious seven million goal, and officials have recently declared success at increasing Incheon's notoriety as, "one of the most dynamic urban development models." Incheon, located approximately one hour West of Seoul, is currently home to Korea's largest airport, Incheon International Airport, also voted the number one airport in the world according to the International Airports Council. It is also home to Western Korea's largest seaport, and it has rapidly become Korea's most important transport and global business center. Incheon is almost two hours from Sanbon by subway because one must first travel North to Seoul and then West toward Incheon. Incheon can also be reached in only one hour by bus or taxi service for, of course, a slightly higher cost.

Despite my somewhat negative observations concerning the influenza outbreak, life continues to be well in the South of Korea. Obama makes his inaugural visit to Seoul next week, and hopefully, the North Korean Navy will not provoke any additional acts of violence toward their neighbors and sworn-enemies to the South.

Stay healthy.

KOREA Week XVII

Late October/ early November happenings:

New classes and students to commence month seven in The Orient. Low enrollment meant that one of my classes was cancelled, so I have extra free time this month and can actually eat dinner before 10pm on Mondays and Wednesdays. Yeah!

Mostly, classes are well and I have begun to implement new materials and reformat the class structure this month. My relationship with the students continues to be the highlight of my job, and it is always pleasurable to speak with them, both inside and outside the classroom.

It was recently brought to my attention that I may have a new neighbor staying in the room immediately adjacent to mine. While this may seem like a pleasant surprise and some much needed company, I enjoyed my solitude and I dislike having to be aware of my music levels, especially late at night. Besides, the walls are paper thin and already I have heard more from my new neighbor than I care to. So this could get interesting.

My one-burner electric range has bit the dust. Apparently, the UniMax 1550 HDC model is no match for Ethan's overzealous cooking habits. It's okay, actually, as I much prefer the Kovea KR-0906 model portable gas stove I originally purchased for camping, but have since adopted as a permanent feature in my kitchen. I will, most likely, have to purchase a second cooking apparatus, as one stove is simply not enough when you cook lots, and more importantly, cook well.

While I once thought cooking in my apartment would be an affordable alternative to frequently dining out, I, sadly, was mistaken. Gourmet tastes, and the premium prices which accompany the Western ingredients I often use, make this difficult to achieve. I suppose it's okay, though, as I have made some incredible dishes in recent weeks. Another trip to Costco (90,000 Won) and a fully-stocked pantry help make this possible.

This week's highlight, by far, was the Sunday trip to Bundang and breakfast at Butterfinger Pancakes. Bundang is located roughly one hour Southeast of Seoul via its own subway line, and is one of the most affluent regions of Seoul. Distance from Sanbon is approximately thirty minutes by car. Its a beautiful area with many modern apartment complexes, and a riverfront park which surrounds the Tancheon River. There are many upscale restaurants and coffee houses located here, including Butterfinger Pancakes, which is, without a doubt, the most Western-style breakfast restaurant I have seen in Korea. Two of us ordered bacon and eggs, french toast, a tall stack of pancakes, and a side dish of macaroni and cheese. They even had real maple syrup to float the french toast and pancakes in! A generous portion of each and all delicious, though, cost was somewhat expensive at 35,000 Won. It was, however, well worth it and I plan to return again soon.

Automotive news:

Hyundai Motor Company and it's junior, Kia Motors Corp., continue to impress me, on many levels. First of all, many students work for, or are in some way involved with them, so it's easy to discuss in class and learn about them. Also, Hyundai and Kia both dominate the passenger car and truck market in Korea, so they are a sort of national pride. What is most impressive, however, is the fact that Hyundai and Kia's market share in the U.S. grew 49% and 45% respectively over the past year. This is, in fact, despite, a global recession, and at a time when other manufacturers, including popular Japanese rivals, continue to battle declining sales. It's actually, astounding.

Amidst this success, Hyundai's quality continues to improve, and many believe, the company is truly building a world-class product. As an example, take a look at the recently unveiled fifth-generation Hyundai Sonata. It's sleek, stylish, and vastly improved over previous models. All this, and, it will be priced less than competitive Toyota and Honda models; namely the Camry and Accord. Other notable mentions include the recently redesigned Hyundai Tucson, the Kia Forte, Kia Soul, and my personal favorite, the Hyundai Genesis; 2009 North American Car of the Year. As if this weren't enough, the Equus line, Hyundai's premier luxury line, goes on sale in North America sometime in late 2010. Remember when Lexus first debuted in 1989 and exactly how Toyota's U.S. market percentage has grown since then? Think similar thoughts.

Toyota, bizarrely, was recently introduced to the Korean marketplace in mid-October. Since then, I have seen many television commercials advertising their three vehicle lineup they are selling, and I have seen many new Camrys, Prius's, and RAV4's hit the streets. It's actually like a status symbol to drive a foreign automobile, even a Toyota, against a product offered by the more traditional Hyundai, Kia, GM Daewoo, Renault-Samsung, or Ssangyong Motors.

Other technology:

The Apple iPhone is set to launch soon in South Korea, though, there is much controversy surrounding the application fees and monthly service fees offered between Apple and the local carriers, namely SK and Korea Telecom (KT). Hopefully, this matter will resolve itself soon, for the introduction of the Google-based Droid is fast approaching, and sadly, it offers more gaming opportunities; something, which, most young Koreans will consider important.

Korean GPS units, found in almost every automobile, feature many functions and are truly, state of the art. What is most unique, however, is the television feature and split-screen function. That's right, satellite television in the front seat of the car while navigating the busy streets of Seoul and Korean highways. As if most Korean drivers weren't bad enough without this distraction..

Stayed tuned.

KOREA Week XXVI

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Last week, students failed to show for at least three of the twenty two classes I teach. While this may seem frustrating, at times, it's often a nice break and a welcome surprise. Usually I wait around for thirty minutes or so before leaving the school, either for a nap in my apartment or dinner, lunch, coffee, etc. What is most frustrating, however, is when the students arrive after thirty minutes, or in one particular case, as I was leaving the school in search of breakfast.

Mostly, classes continue to progress well, though sometimes I cannot help but feel as if my classes are getting stale. I am always searching for new materials, especially for those students who have been with me for several months, and are well versed in my repertoire. Reading articles from The Korea Herald or The Korea Times maybe gets old for some students, and many remain anxious to learn about American culture, popular entertainment news, business news, etc. A junior level Trivial Pursuit is a good game to play with the students, and this offers a nice break from the usual monotony of text books, newspaper articles, and other traditional classroom materials.

Because of this and the recent departure of many long-time students, I cannot help but wonder if a teacher may only have an effective teaching span of six months, before the students exhaust their learning and it is time to move on to another teacher. Obviously, the student is there for a reason, and even though I don't want to lose or discontinue our relationship, I have started to feel switching teachers after a set time may be in the student's best interest.

Also last week, I visited the 63 Tower in Seoul, Korea's tallest building and a landmark of the financial district, Yeouido. The 360 degree views of Seoul from the 60th floor observation deck are fantastic, and provide visitors with yet another perspective of how large this city is. Admission to the 60th floor is 12,000 Won, but probably worth it for the views.

South Korea's World Series concluded last week. The two teams, the SK Wyverns and the Kia Tigers, battled through seven games for the national title, with the Kia Tigers emerging victorious. As far as I can tell, the Korean Baseball Organization (KBO) is very similar to Major League Baseball, except, of course, the teams are corporate owned and corporate named, there are a total of eight teams, and the organization has only been around since 1982. Regardless, baseball is a popular sport in Korea and it made the last two weeks exciting as the country gathered to watch the series and cheer on their favorite team.

The fourteenth annual Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF) took place last week. Apparently, it's one of the premier Asian film festivals, and according to various news sources, it was, once again, a major, star-studded event which drew many crowds and attention toward the city of Pusan. Josh Hartnett was the most famous U.S. movie star, as he is currently promoting his role in a Korean movie. All week long, Korean newspapers featured stories on must see films, celebrity appearances, rising stars, directorial debuts, etc.

This week's highlight, by far, was the weekend trip to the Eastern mountains of Gangwon Province with my good friend, Gemma. The two of us left late Saturday, and after four hours driving, arrived at her friend's apartment located near Pyeongchang Resort. The 180 kilometer drive was without incident, and her friends were most accommodating. Sunday's activities included a scenic drive through the mountains, picnic lunch, and a day hike to witness the spectacular fall colors, which, I was told, were at their peak that weekend.

The Taebaek Mountains are the major feature to the Gangwon area, and they range some 600 to 1,700 meters above sea level, forming a 500 kilometer-long rigid spine along the Eastern coast of the peninsula. The Taebaek Mountains also serve as a type of continental divide, as many rivers, including the famous Han River, flow West from the center of the range. Pyeongchang is actually a candidate city to host the 2018 Winter Olympics, which, unfortunately, is the third attempt for this after losing the 2010 and 2014 bids.

Gangwon Province, I have since learned, is the third largest county in Korea, and is one of the premier vacation destinations of many Seoul area residents. It is so popular, in fact, that the traffic is often heavily congested during weekend times, as there is only one major highway servicing the area. For example, it took us only four hours late Saturday night to complete the 180 km. journey, compared with six hours of stop and go traffic Sunday evening. I would also like to mention that I successfully completed this six-hour drive late Sunday evening, and most importantly, without incident. That's right, The Bird can drive the Korean roads..

Gangwon Province is home to many ski resorts, golf courses, hiking trails, and mountain streams to satisfy any outdoor enthusiast. Actually, the region reminded me very much of the Allegheny Mountains of Western Pennsylvania and New York. It is also home to SeorakSan National Park, one of Korea's most famous national parks, and one of my most favorite weekend travel destinations.

Good stuff. Keep on trucking.

KOREA Week XXV

Tuesday, October 20, 2009 at 6:59pm

Following last week's trip to Costco, I have made several fantastic meals in my apartment. Some of the more memorable dishes include delicious bulgogi sandwiches served on toasted bagel using onion and sharp cheddar cheese, in addition to various omelets stuffed with cheddar cheese, diced onion, garlic, and peppers. This week, I am planning a bowtie pasta dish served with pesto sauce, pine nuts, and feta cheese. Yum! In addition to these fine culinary demonstrations, pumpkin pie, courtesy of Costco, was featured multiple nights for dessert. It should be noted, however, that a can of Redi-Whip can cost almost 12,000 Won at E-Mart, so the cheaper alternative is to purchase a small container of freshly whipped cream from the local Paris Baguette for a mere 1,500 Won.

Some of these culinary experimentation's have carried over to my classes, and I have brought leftovers in as a kind of offering to some students and an introduction to/discussion of western foods. I would also like to make chili, in honor of the fall temperatures, and I am even considering using the delicious E-Mart bulgogi I reference so much, in place of the more traditional ground beef. Peppers, onions, garlic are plentiful and can be found almost anywhere. Kidney beans and tomato paste are available at E-Mart, though they are maybe a little more expensive than in the U.S. Regardless, many people are anxious to try the chili, as this is something that most have never seen nor heard of.

On Tuesday, I was treated to a traditional Korean tea ceremony at a quaint lakeside tea house with students from my 9am class. The scenery was beautiful and the plum-flavored tea was delicious, though expensive. It actually is an art studio that also features traditional Korean style teas and desserts. The location was Daeyami, a tiny neighboring community to Sanbon, located approximately two subway stations away and on the other side of Suri Mountain. Afterwards, the students and I shared lunch at a famous duck restaurant, also located in Daeyami. The duck, which was absolutely delicious, was served smoked and sliced into thin strips, to make table-side grilling easier. Perhaps this is one of the best meals I have eaten in Korea. Cost, however, was slightly expensive at 36,000 Won for the full duck, which worked out to be 12,000 Won per person, but worth the expense and generous portion.

I actually enjoyed the duck restaurant so much, I returned there Saturday night with my friend Gemma to share this experience with her. It was her first time visiting the restaurant, and together we learned that two people cannot finish an entire duck. Tough lesson, but that's okay, because it makes for great leftovers. In fact, my plan this week is to make a fettuccine dish in a light cream sauce with mushrooms and onions, and, of course, the leftover duck.

On Sunday, Gemma and I visited SeonyuDo, a magnificent garden island located in the Han River and in the middle of Seoul. It was a beautiful fall afternoon, with sunny skies, a light breeze and temperatures in the low 70's. SeonyuDo is actually the former site of a water treatment plant, Korea's first recycled ecological park, converted in 2001, and connected to the mainland via a narrow pedestrian bridge. Included on the island are many botanical gardens, a birch tree forest, water museum, and numerous foot paths. Admission is free and the views of the Han River, along with 360 degree views of Seoul, are priceless. It's truly one of the best places I have visited in Seoul, and I would suggest spending at least a few hours exploring the numerous gardens and enjoying the views. When finished, I would also suggest a stroll along one of the many riverside paths to fully appreciate the wonder of this destination and the Han River.

Following our SeonyuDo experience, Gemma and I traveled to Shinchon Station (downtown Seoul) for Mexican dinner at On The Border, an American chain with three locations in the metro area. I have read many reviews suggesting this is, perhaps, the best Mexican food in Seoul, and as disappointing as it may be to award this title to yet another chain restaurant, I'm afraid it may be true. The margaritas weren't bad (it was Gemma's first margarita), the burrito combination dinner we shared was decent, and this was my first experience with guacamole in Korea. Avocados are a food item I miss terribly, and when available at a speciality grocery store, or even Costco, they are incredibly expensive; maybe 15,000 Won for 6. Because of this, paying 6,000 Won for a side dish of guacamole is by all means reasonable.

What was most special about On The Border was introducing my good friend to the new foods and frozen alcoholic beverages. She especially enjoyed the guacamole, or "guatemala" as she later called it. Dinner for two cost 45,000 Won, which included a 10% service charge, and is expensive for Korean dining. I suppose it's comparable to the U.S. and not bad for two people sharing one large entree, side order of guacamole, two margaritas, and a beer, but still far more expensive than most Korean meals I have enjoyed, even with alcohol service. The best part of the meal, however, was when leaving, many of the staff told us, "adios kamsahamnida" or adios thank you!

Other recent happenings:

Sleep continues to be a struggle for me and for many reasons. Mostly, this is due to the notorious split shifts associated with teaching Adults at a hagwon, though an active social life can also interfere with this. Every day I awake at 530am, my classes begin at 630am and continue until to roughly noon, followed by evening classes; usually 6pm to 10pm. As a result, I usually average 3-4 hours sleep at night, and, if I'm lucky, a 2-3 hour nap during the afternoon. This, obviously, is not a healthy balance. Tuesday night, for example, I awoke at 330am and actually showered before I realized the time and my error. Sleep deprivation will do that to you, I guess.

I revisited a Korean fortune teller with my good friend B.H. While this was mostly for entertainment purposes, I will admit I do enjoy the abstract guidance, as well. I was told many things over the course of an hour, all of which were translated through B.H., and cost a mere 20,000 Won. The most noteworthy piece of information I was provided, suggested life continues to look good for me and I should continue my international travels, though I should pay special attention to my health over the next three months and use caution when traveling this year. In addition, I was told when I die, on my deathbed, I will receive total consciousness. So I got that going for me, which is nice.

I have now completed the paek p'al bae, or 108 bows before the Buddha, a total of three times at SuriSan Mountain Temple (SuriSa). The walk to temple from Sanbon takes roughly one hour, and in addition to the pleasant afternoon hike, I can honestly say I feel mentally refreshed immediately following the experience. I remain impressed with what little I know of the Buddhist teachings and I truly hope to further my Buddhist "education" and experience the Buddhist Temple Stay sometime soon.

To continue with this health theme, I attended a Thursday yoga class with one of my students. The class was filled with all women, maybe ages 25-60, and I, of course, was the only foreigner. But, seeing as I did not do anything too awkward, I was invited back. The women seemed to enjoy my presence in the class, and, I must admit, were somewhat impressed with my flexibility.

The weather has become increasingly fall-like, with temperatures ranging between upper 40's at night and low 70's during most days. Leaves on the trees continue to turn colors and fall. It's a beautiful time of year, though one can sense the cold winter on it's way. I am, of course, not looking forward to this, even though snowboard season is not far away.

Adios Kamsahamnida!

KOREA Week XXIV

Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:11am

Immediately following last week's posting, I was reminded by a Korean friend of mine that it is considered improper, and slightly offensive to the Korean people, to refer to the East Sea as the "Sea of Japan". This stems from centuries of invasion and bitter warfare between the two countries which, unfortunately, has amassed a great deal of resentment toward the Japanese government. Currently, the Japanese and Korean governments are sparring over territorial boundaries in the East Sea, most notably the tiny rock island of DokDo. The resentment toward the Japanese government, it seems, is still prevalent, and understandably so when one studies the troubled history between the neighboring nations. What I have also learned, is that, in addition, to the territorial dispute surrounding DokDo, there is a vast natural gas reserve located deep beneath the ocean floor that should belong to whoever controls the territory.

Other happenings in recent weeks:

I located a cheap sushi restaurant in Sanbon that serves small plates of sushi via a rotating conveyor belt for a mere 1,300 Won per plate. Fair sushi at a fair price. Tasty and cheap.

One of my favorite restaurants in Sanbon, and perhaps the first restaurant I was introduced to by my fellow American teacher, James, recently closed. It's a shame, really, because I ate there maybe once a week, and always rotated between the BiBimBap (mixture of rice and vegetables in spicy sauce) and JeukDopBop (steamed pork in a spicy red sauce served with rice). Both dishes were sure to fill me up and only cost 5,000 Won. What's most frustrating is this happened without warning and a lingerie shop has replaced the restaurant. One day the restaurant was there, and literally, the next day no restaurant and lots of intimate apparel.

Early this week, Starbucks provided me and select frequent customers with free mini-cakes as a type of customer appreciation. While it's nice to be recognized, I have undoubtedly spent hundreds of thousands of Won at Starbucks over the past five and a half months. Enough to earn recognition and my regular table on most days and, apparently, a tasty cake every few months.

I recently visited Korean Costco for the first time. According to their website, there are a total of seven locations throughout Korea, with half located in the greater Seoul area. I was fortunate enough to visit the Yangjae store, located only 15 minutes from Sanbon via automobile. A Korean membership was 35,000 Won, but only because my U.S. membership card had expired, though, I was told it may be possible to transfer membership for little or no cost to valid cardholders.

The store layout and selection was remarkably similar to U.S. stores, with many Western food items and the usual bulk-size offerings. Biggest difference I could notice was found in the seafood section, which, similar to E-Mart, is filled with many of the peculiar Asian seafood products. Regardless, I was able to purchase 100,000 Won worth of groceries, otherwise unavailable to me at E-Mart, in addition to some bulk goods which should be priced less than other stores. I probably would have purchased more if it had not been for the limited capacity of my tiny dormitory style refrigerator. Rare food items included two packages of cheddar cheese, a container of salted almonds, pesto sauce, feta cheese, and a pumpkin pie. Yum! The largest disappointment, by far, was no guacamole, which is one of my favorite items available at U.S. Costco stores. Alas, it remains a welcome addition to my so called Korean life and dietary habits.

The Sanbon library plays English movies with Korean subtitles every Wednesday. Two weeks ago, my friend Gemma and I watched a mid-afternoon's showing of Dr. Zhivago, which, was thoroughly enjoyable, aside from the three and a half hour showing time. The movies are free, and the theatre is clean and comfortable. Beverages and snacks, like most other theaters, should be snuck inside. But I cannot endorse this practice.

I recently learned that I have been using fabric softener to wash my clothes instead of laundry detergent. I was oblivious to this, of course, as the containers are written in Korean, so I had no idea when I originally purchased this from E-Mart some four months ago. Smooth move, Ethan, but at least I smell fresh and my clothes are soft.

Many foreign friends have recently departed from their stay in Korea. Whatever the reason for their departure, whether it be premature or scheduled, it stings a little. I have been fortunate and made many good friends here, and I will miss them very much. Tiann has left Sanbon for a teaching position in another city, and Alvin, who has become a good friend and camping compadre, has left Korea under mysterious visa discrepancies. Another friend from Canada, Kelsey, has left following her one year contract at her school. I guess this is just part of the experience, but I will miss them.

Friday night a group of foreign teachers gathered at a local NoraeBang to properly see off Kelsey. I have said this many times before and I will continue to say it; I love NoraeBang! It's the best, especially when mixed with beer and soju, and enjoyed well into the early morning hours. A great way to celebrate with friends, old and new.

That's the news. Keep it real.

KOREA Week XXIII

Monday, October 5, 2009 at 10:05am

Week XXIII here in K-town, following a long, hard holiday weekend in the South. Pusan was/is 10-15 degrees warmer than Seoul (on average), and aside from the torrential downpour my friends and I managed to find ourselves a part of late Thursday night/early Friday morning, the weather was beautiful. These heavy rains, I might add, make it extremely difficult to find a taxi willing to pick you up and transport you safely to your destination, especially at 3am. Instead, my friends and I stood in the pouring rain desperately trying to hail a cab and we found it frustrating that so many would pass us by or refuse to accommodate us.

Chuseok, Korean Thanksgiving, and perhaps the most important Korean holiday, was Saturday and we did our best to celebrate by spending the day in Songjeong. Songjeong Beach is a 2km long sandy beach located 10-15 minutes north of the more crowded Haeundae and Gwangalli Beaches, and the Western-most Japanese island can be viewed from here. It's a perfect place to enjoy a sunny afternoon followed by late-night bonfire and cookout, and it was, in fact, a perfect day. The homemade potato salad, tuna salad, and pork tenderloin we enjoyed was also perfect.

Transportation to Pusan via KoRail (slow rail) was 24,000 Won and KTX transportation to Seoul was 51,000 Won. Travel time to Pusan on the slower, more traditional rail system was roughly 5 hours, while the impressive KTX delivered me to Seoul in less than 3 hours. A quick note about KTX; introduced in 2004, it's Korea's own high-speed rail system which has a top speed of 350km/h, though it is limited to 300km/h for safety reasons. It connects three of Korea's largest cities; Seoul, Pusan, and Mokpo, and it really is an efficient way to travel the country. The downside to this, of course, is the higher ticket price and the seats, unfortunately, are not as comfortable as the slower, KoRail trains. Regardless, when traveling over the Chuseok holiday, one is fortunate to have transportation anywhere, anyway.

This week commences month six of classes, and it's the usual first week of introductions and new students. Hard to believe it's month six, and I soon will have taught a total of 54 classes during my tenure at my hagwon. Also hard to imagine I have taught an average of 40 students each month, and probably over 100 students throughout my short time here.

October plans include a Buddhist Templestay, a renewed commitment to my Korean studies, guitar lessons, regular exercise, and possibly a Korean cooking class. All fun stuff, and certainly appropriate for the cooler October weather.

Check out the photos listed under Ethan's Flickr Photostream, if you haven't done so already, and drop me a line via Skype! (esparrow1) I am lonely for some conversation with friends and family..

KOREAN Chuseok

Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok, and Week XXIII in Pusan. It's a lovely city by the sea, and my American hosts are fantastic. I love it here.

The train ride down was uneventful, aside from the fact I left Suwon Station at 11:30pm Wednesday night, arriving in Pusan at 4:30am Thursday. Toledo friend Greg picked me up from the station on his motorcycle, a Korean made Daehon, perhaps a 250cc. I can only imagine what the two of us looked like in the early morning hours riding from the station to his apartment.

Prior to my departure late Wednesday, I received a gift set from my hagwon; two cans of Spam, six cans of tuna, and two bottles of canola oil. Because Chuseok is a time to be thankful and celebrate with family/friends, it's the thought that counts. Besides, I'm not sure when, but I know this will come in handy someday. Also on Wednesday, I enjoyed lunch with good friend B.H., where we exchanged gifts and casual conversation.

After breakfast Wednesday morning, Greg and I hiked long the coast, napped, and visited Gwangalli Beach for frisbee and a swim in the ocean. Later that day, we hit up several of Pusan's finest bars, met many new friends, and participated in some debauchery until 5am Friday.

Chuseok is actually Saturday, and our plans include a day hike, beach time, and a delicious Korean meal prepared at Greg and Brian's apartment. I was told there are reservations for a beach hotel Saturday night and cookout/beach fire starting late in the afternoon. Whatever the details, I am game..

Happy Chuseok!

KOREA Week XXII

Monday, September 28, 2009 at 10:20pm

Temperatures have been increasingly colder here in the South of Korea. It's amazing how similar they actually are to temperatures in the Midwest of America, though the fall temperatures here seem to be a few weeks behind their U.S. counterparts. Recent days have been comfortable in the mid to upper 70's, while nights may drop down to mid to lower 60's or even upper 50's, Fahrenheit, of course. I have also noticed some leaves beginning to fall, though most leaves have yet to turn color and will probably not do so until mid to late October.

Teaching continues to go well, though I miss the record high number of students experienced during the summer vacation months. Mostly, I miss some of the students I taught the past five months, and I wish they would return to school or I could pick and choose my students. One of my favorite classes is Happy Class, a discounted class offered late mornings on Monday/Wednesday for mostly housewives. We always have good discussion and they are a great class, though I sometimes think the students grow tired of the topics I select (usually cooking, cultural differences, my Korean travel plans, etc.) Kelly, Young, Cool, and Christine have each been in the class for several months now and we have an excellent relationship. In fact, sometimes we have lunch together immediately following class, coffee, or I prepare peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for the group. Kelly, Young, and Christine have also been instrumental in helping me adjust to Korean life and find my way around town. For this, I am incredibly grateful.

Another of my other favorite classes is Business English taught every Tuesday/Thursday evening. Good friend and favorite student B.H. has been a prominent fixture in this class from Day 1, and the number of students continues to grow each month. Currently, we are up to a record high 9 students enrolled this month in the class. Possibly some of my best lessons and class discussions have been here. Maybe it's just because I'm a Business major or have a profound interest in the subject, but some of our discussions have included: the competitive advantage of Starbucks in Korea, analysis of Hyundai Kia Automotive Group and their recent success, use of technology and innovation in our daily lives and how to apply this to our professions, economical issues, etc. Actually, if enrollment continues to increase, I hope to convince the school to open a second Business English class offered in the morning.

I have but a few complaints with teaching, and they are all minor. First of all, some Koreans do not stay home when they are sick. Instead, they come to class sneezing and coughing for others to see and be exposed to. It's a bit annoying, especially when many here blame the foreigners for exposure to swine flu. I have made it a practice to keep hand sanitizer in class and make sure to wash thoroughly after touching items in the classroom, after every class, just to be safe.

Another complaint are the few students who attend class once or twice a month, and usually do not have much to contribute when they do attend. It's silly for me to complain about this as it's their money they're wasting, but I truly do care about the students and the quality of the education I offer them. Another complaint along this line is one particular class I am teaching this month where the students do not like to speak or have difficulty becoming active in the class discussion. After four weeks, I am so frustrated with the class, I have told the school I cannot teach them after this month. It's incredibly aggravating, and James, who taught this class last month, had the same frustration with them. I guess I should be fortunate that, after five months, this is the only class I have experienced this difficulty with.

Aside from these minor complaints, and really, they all seem trivial, I can honestly say I love teaching and I'm delighted with my decision to be here. Teaching is something I never thought I would do in my adult life, let alone be any good at, and it's surprising where life can lead you. This experience, I think, so many friends of mine would not only enjoy, but surprisingly, be very good at. One of the best parts about my job, aside from the friendships I have forged with many students, is the laughter we often share together in class. It's these jovial and outgoing individuals who make my teaching experience worthwhile.

I have begun to get this same satisfaction from my experience reading children's books at the library on a weekly basis. Once again, this is something I never thought I would enjoy, let alone be successful with. Each week, there are usually between 20-40 children, perhaps 5-8 years average age, with another 10-20 parents in attendance. I recognize many of the same faces each week, and on most days I am lucky enough to get a big smile or sometimes even a hug from them. Some of the children have also brought me presents. Others remain skeptical around me and prefer their comfort of their parent's arms. Not to sound incredibly lame, but I find this to be a very rewarding experience and it makes me feel good to give something back.

An interesting observation is just how incredibly well young Korean schoolchildren can speak English, and often, with little or no accent at all. Usually, the older students speak with some form of an accent, even a slight English or Australian accent depending upon if they may have studied or lived abroad. The reason for the difference is because the older students did not begin their studies until a later age, perhaps middle school, and this difference is largely noticeable.

English education at a pre-school or kindergarten age remains a controversial subject here in Korea. In fact, this topic has been the source of many discussions in class. It truly is unbelievable the importance and emphasis on English skills in this country, as it seems to be a pre-requisite for college entrance and employment. In other words, one's English ability determines their place in society, and it beckons the question if the Korean language will someday disappear or simply fade away.

The positive side, of course, is the high demand this creates for native English teachers, such as myself. Korean institutions and public schools pay attractive salaries, provide good benefits and usually free housing for foreign teachers. ESL teaching really is a remarkable way to experience life outside North America and learn about a foreign country, it's people, their history and language.

Here's another observation. Students in my Saturday a.m. class and were discussing American holidays and the subject of parades came up. Korea, apparently, rarely has parades, which is disappointing. I was told they used to have a parade every year for Soldiers Day, first week of November, though this practice has ended within the past ten years or so. When asking my students why there no longer is a parade on Soldiers Day, I was told because the tanks destroyed the roads. Apparently, Soldiers Day in Korea used to present to the public a massive march of thousands of soldiers accompanied by a an arsenal, literally, of military equipment, missiles, tanks, etc. Wow!

The approaching weekend, October 1-4 is Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok, and it's a four day holiday from my school. I have learned Chuseok is, perhaps, one of the most important Korean holidays and, similar to the U.S., is a time for families to gather and celebrate the good things in life. Small gifts are often shared with others, delicious foods are prepared, and many, many people travel, thus making it difficult to go anywhere. Despite the logistical difficulties, I have managed to secure KoRail passage to Pusan, where I will visit with Toledo friends Greg and Brian, and Greg's girlfriend, Suji. Another fun weekend, I am sure, will be had by all.

Best wishes!

KOREA Week XXI

Monday, September 21, 2009 at 3:45pm

Wibro Wireless internet has arrived in my Korean life! It's a USB plug-in antenna which allows me, in theory, to connect to the internet anywhere in the Gyeonggi-do province (metro Seoul area). I signed a twelve month contract with KT Telecom for 22,000 Won per month and no out-of-pocket expense. Not bad, though I had to return to COEX Mall last week for a complete reinstall of the Wibro software on my computer. Hopefully, this proves to be a convenient and trouble-free solution to the internet connectivity issues which have plagued me from day one in Korea.

I recently learned that one of my students in Step 4 class lived in Ann Arbor, MI for three years and studied at Wayne State University in Detroit. Small world; though she didn't seem to know much about Toledo and Northwest Ohio. Nonetheless, it was a nice connection to make and we have since had many interesting discussions about Ann Arbor and her short time spent there.

Last week, I returned to my new favorite restaurant in Sanbon, and location of the nearly disastrous oil fire during my second visit there. Thursday night, I treated two of my favorite Korean friends, B.H. and Gemma, to late night Galbi dinner. It was a great evening shared with two great people, and together the three of us feasted on thinly sliced beef, the many traditional Korean accompaniments, and Ginseng soju from my personal stash that I now keep at the restaurant. That's right, I have my own bottle of Ginseng-soaked soju with my name proudly written on it and kept on hand at the restaurant.

There was no class Friday, so I ventured South to meet Toledo friend Greg and his Korean girlfriend, Suji, in JiriSan National Park. JiriSan National Park is the largest of the Korean National Parks and boasts some of the tallest, steepest terrain in the country. Overall, it was a wonderful weekend, and nice to reconnect with this contingency from Toledo/Pusan.

Because of the late night Thursday, I did not actually leave Sanbon until close to 3pm Friday, which meant taking the 4pm bus from Nambu Bus Terminal In Seoul and 8pm arrival in JinJu. A major mistake on my part, but worth it because Thursday night was a great time. From JinJu, it's another hour long bus ride to Jung San Li, the mountain location of the resort we stayed in. Unfortunately, my late night arrival in a strange country town without street lights led to me getting lost and wandering for over an hour before finally locating the resort around 1030pm.

I am incredibly fortunate every time I travel in Korea, as I always seem to have good luck and encounter some friendly Korean who speaks just enough English to assist me. In this case, I met my new Korean friend on the bus ride to Jung San Li, and after getting lost the first time, he helped guide me to the resort. Additionally, he joined me for late night dinner and shared the cost of the hotel room for the first night so my cost was only 20,000 Won instead of the standard 40,000 Won.

What was most disappointing about my weekend travel was immediately following the hour long bus ride to Jung San Li, when the nasty bus driver insisted I pay him a second fare. This was despite the fact I provided my original ticket to a different attendant upon entering the bus, who eagerly accepted my ticket, helped me handle my luggage, and showed me to my seat. The driver's attitude really rubbed me the wrong way, but as my new Korean friend pointed out using subtle English vocabulary, "it's okay. Pay the man the money and let's go." Even though it was only 6,000 Won, I still felt cheated and it did not sit well with me.

Greg and Suji arrived early Saturday morning, 10am, from Pusan, and we enjoyed a quick breakfast before departing for our day hike to the mountain. Originally, we were told 7-8 hours to the summit and back (11 km.), though less than one hour into the hike, we quickly realized this was near impossible due to the steep, rocky terrain that was the trail. Instead, we hiked two hours to Beopgye Temple, enjoyed a free lunch sponsored by the temple staff, and lingered here for almost two hours before returning down the mountain. It was the correct decision, because there is no way we could have reached the summit and made it safely down the mountain prior to darkness setting in. The terrain was too steep and too challenging to negotiate in dim light or the dark. As it was, the hike to/from the temple was 7 kilometers and was challenging. Besides, it gives us an excuse to return for a 2-3 day overnight hike and camp on the mountain; something we are currently planning for.

So, we returned to our resort motel at around 6pm Saturday where we each showered, relaxed, and prepared a phenomenal four course meal complete with pork tenderloin, beef tenderloin, sauteed vegetables, rice, and soju. After negotiating with the motel manager, Suji was allowed to prepare a campfire, confined to my portable charcoal grill and the brick patio where we cooked. All in all it was a great night and we quickly made friends with another couple staying at the motel, along with the motel manager and his girlfriend, who each joined us for dinner and drinks.

Sunday morning, we awoke around 10am, cooked steak and eggs for breakfast, cleaned up from the night before, and departed for JinJu on the 1pm bus. I did manage to get stung by a bee while cooking breakfast; something that has not happened to me in Korea up until this time. Once in JinJu we ate sushi lunch and toured JinJu Castle, a large castle and beautiful gardens located along the banks of the Nam River, with a deep history dating back to 1592 during the first Japanese invasion of the Korean Peninsula. According to history, some 3,800 Korean soldiers successfully defended the castle against a surge of 20,000 Japanese troops, before they eventually fell during the second invasion a year later in 1593.

If ever in JinJu or Gyeongsang Province, I highly recommend a visit to JinJu Castle. It's tremendously worth the 6,000 Won entrance fee.

The 7pm bus leaving JinJu meant that I did not arrive until 11pm in Seoul, and after midnight in Sanbon. A late Sunday night and long weekend, but well worth it. Cost of the weekend was as follows:

40,000 Won KoRail bus to/from JinJu

12,000 Won bus to/from Jung San Li (+ extra 6,000 Won)

50,000 Won for two night's accommodation at resort motel in Jung San Li

20,000 Won food/beer/soju for Friday night, Saturday, and Sunday morning

Weekend spent away from home, hiking with friends at one of Korea's most beautiful national parks: Priceless.