Wednesday, November 18, 2009

KOREA Week XXIX

Thursday, November 19, 2009 at 11:49pm

When I reflect back on the past seven months, I have made many friends in Korea, and I am incredibly thankful for this good fortune. My time here would not be nearly as enjoyable and comforting without their companionship. Some of these friends have originated as students, and some have been introduced through various channels of my Korean stay. Others have emerged simply as a result of being a foreigner in a foreign land. Regardless of the origin, I can proudly say the many friendships I have forged have been one of the best parts of this trip.

My very first student, who quickly became a good friend, screen golf partner, travel guide, advisor to all things Korean, etc., has recently moved to a neighboring city, located approximately 20 minutes by car or one hour via bus and subway. After sixteen years living in Sanbon, B.H. and his family have relocated to a larger and newer apartment with more modern features, which they hope will appreciate in value at a higher-rate than their somewhat stabilized home in Sanbon. While I will miss him in Sanbon, he has told me he will remain a student, at least through the end of this month.

Even though I fully expected to meet many friends, I did not expect these friendships to impact me as much as they have. My friendship with student B.H. is a perfect example this. Despite our obvious age difference (52 years vs. 32 years), we remain close, and have served each other well during a time of transition for each of us. Remember, he is an automotive engineer who spent nearly 25 years with Hyundai, and most recently, three years with Delphi Automotive before the company suspended their Korean operations earlier this year. Soon, he will begin a new job, and thus, will be unable to continue his English studies.

Even though I am incredibly pleased for his success, I do not look forward to the approaching day when he will no longer be a student. Our discussions have always been strong, even at 6:30 a.m., and our topics have covered a wide range. In so many ways, it is he who has been the teacher, and I the student.

Other news:

Two weeks ago I wrote about Korean GPS units and their impressive dual function capability as both satellite navigation and television. Recently, the Korean equivalent of the Supreme Court ruled that driving while watching television on a dashboard-mounted GPS is perfectly legal. This decision is a major relief to most taxi drivers, who regularly enjoy watching television, both while waiting for potential passengers and while driving. Crazy, eh?

Other comments regarding the Korean GPS units; in addition to the split-screen satellite TV feature, I recently learned that many also feature a red light warning system, which is mostly used by taxi drivers to speed up or slow down when approaching the intersection, or do a U-turn in the middle of the street and detour to avoid the red light. Another useful feature identifies the current fuel prices at any gas station, and, most importantly, a warning device when approaching the notorious photo radar enforcement. Navigation, it would seem, is only a small and insignificant feature when compared with the other capabilities of each device.

The weather continues to change significantly, and recent temperatures have dropped to around a 30 degree average with lows hovering in the mid 20's at night. It's ridiculously cold for this time of year, and it's not even December yet. Damn! But, I'm pleased to finally have my winter jacket to keep me warm.

To ease with the cold temperatures, Koreans have a unique in-floor heating system called Ondol. The design is nothing remarkable, except that, according to some reports, it's been in Korea for around 1,000 years. This system is essentially copper tubing filled with hot water and located beneath the wooden floors, but it's sure to help keep any room warm and your ass comfortable. It's common in most homes and some restaurants, especially those with floor seating. Remember, most Koreans eat while sitting on the floor and many continue to sleep on the floor at night, instead of using a bed. Personally speaking, I have slept on the floor maybe 3 or 4 times, and I'm pleased to report the Ondol system works incredibly well.

Unfortunately, both my apartment and hagwon are without Ondol, and thus, the temperatures often fluctuate. While lately, I have been trying to keep my apartment at a toasty 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 Fahrenheit), I sometimes wear a winter hat in class to keep warm, and often lounge about in my queen-size fleece blanket (20,000 Won - CostCo) while "chilling" at home.

In addition to the Ondol, many Korean foods help keep your insides warm. Popular winter foods in Korea are just about anything spicy, or served in the typical Korean style of scalding one's mouth when eating. Actually, there are many delicious soups and stews (jjigae), to accompany the many wonderful dishes which are cooked table-side, to remain warm. So if a restaurant is without Ondol, just locate a table with it's own grill and exhaust system. It's easy to find. This, and one or two bottles of soju will usually aide in the warming process.

That's the news. Stay warm.

1 comment:

mary said...

so ethan, who would be the one who made your receiving the "warm winter jacket" possible? you know, i would think your MOTHER
probably always made the point that giving credit where it's due is a good thing!

and your queen-size blanket sounds remarkably like a "snuggie" - which i remember you were admiring when you were here, before you went over the edge! :)