Wednesday, March 31, 2010

KOREA Week XXXXIX

It seems as if my time in Korea would not be complete without another visit to the hospital. Or so, that's what they told me.

Late Sunday afternoon, I sliced my finger while opening a can of olives. Yes, a can of olives. I was almost finished cooking a delicious pasta when the accident occurred, causing me to abandon the cooking efforts and head to the local hospital. This was, in fact, my third visit in eleven months.

After a tetnis shot and an x-ray, the doctors prepared me for my stitches. Because the fingertips are one of the most sensitive parts of the body, this was not easy and it required anesthetic via a long needle to the fingertip. Not pleasant. In fact, it turned out to be a series of three shots, not just one, and I'm convinced the doctor did not properly do this. It was so uncomfortable that I passed out during the third needle shot to the finger, causing the ER staff to rush to my side with an oxygen tube and other accoutrements. Nice!

Seven stitches and 45,000 Won later, I left Sanbon hospital having vowed to never return there. I later learned that in Korea, it's twice as expensive to visit the ER on weekends. I also learned about something called "Sunday Doctors", a somewhat affectionate term for the interns who staff local hospitals on the weekends in place of the actual doctors.

Other news:

Lots of movie watching going on here. Greenzone, From Paris With Love, Julie & Julia, The Soloist, Shutter Island, and many others.

Just in case anyone was wondering, McDonald's hotcakes are sausage breakfast tastes the same in Korea as it does back home. At 4,500 Won, the cost is also the same. Regrettably, I am just now learning this.

I visited a new hamburger restaurant in Itaewon after reading about it in Seoul Eats, a local food blog I subscribe to. Two Broz. offers a pretty damn good hamburger at semi-reasonable prices. I paid around 11,000 Won for a good-size burger, fries, and a coke. It's definitely better than my recent attempts at hamburger consumption, namely Chili King, though the fries are crinkle cut which I don't especially like. Two Broz. may even be better than Kraze Burger, which has been my favorite Korean attempt at fast food.

I keep reading about Five Guys Burgers & Fries back in the U.S. and I'm eager to experience this when I return. Actually, I'm eager to experience many things when I get home.

The weather continues to be unseasonably cold in Seoul. Spring has not yet arrived, though many students promise me warmer temperatures within the next two weeks. I hope they're right.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

KOREA Week XXXXVIII

Thursday, March 25, 2010

The good news; I have booked my return airfare and should soon have tickets in hand. It's a nice feeling to have a departure date (May 3), and I'm excited to count down the days. The bad news; there is much to do prior to leaving.

Sadly, I did not make it to Busan this past weekend. No reuniting with friends and no celebrations. The official reason; I woke up too late Friday morning and there was too much to do prior to leaving. That and I was not feeling 100% in the days prior to the weekend. Instead of another fine Busan adventure, I enjoyed a relaxing weekend of sleep and movie watching.

Yellow Dust:

In Korea and much of East Asia, there is something called Hwangsa, or Yellow Dust. Apparently, it originates in the Gobi Desert of Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and Northern China. The seasonal winds carry this very fine dust in the Spring and Summer months toward Korea and it's people. Furthermore, it picks up many industrial pollutants along the Eastern coastline of China, thus making it a nasty mixture that wreaks havoc on the country.

I experienced this last week, when I awoke one morning with a sore throat. At first I thought I was getting sick, then I learned about this meteorological phenomena. The Koreans often complain about this, and I was told the dreadful surgical mask is strongly encouraged on high Hwangsa days.

I have read that last Saturday was among the worst Hwangsa days, and literally, the dust filled sky was an amber color. It was an eerie sight. The day following, a very fine yellow/brown dust was recognizable on nearly every surface, window pane, and automobile. It's disgusting.

The Average Seoul Resident:

According to a recent article published in The Korea Times, the average Seoul resident is 37 years old and works an average of 46 hours per week. Monthly salary is 3.6 million Won and they spend around 2.8 million Won per month. This, obviously, is the so-called middle class, which accounts for 6 out of 10 households.

The cost of private education, which has grown at around 20 percent annually, is around 580,000 Won per month for tutoring and after school hagwons for their children. I have read other reports that suggest this figure can sometimes be well above 2 million Won per month. Either way, the figure remains a staggeringly high number, and is one of the highest of any developed nation.

Every day in Seoul there are an average of 106 deaths, 197 marriages, 264 births, and 249 people obtain a driver's license. The birthrate is actually a decrease of around 3,700 from the previous year, which continues to be a perplexing social problem.

Single family households has increased 66 percent since 1999 as the marriage rate fell to its lowest level ever in 2009. In turn, the average age of first-time grooms and brides continues to rise and is currently 31 years old for men and 29 years old for women.

Economic News:

Recently, a U.S. economist projected the cost of a North/South Korean unification at $1.7 trillion. This is only slightly higher than last year's Credit Suisse projection of $1.5 trillion. Both figures are nearly double the South Korean GDP of around $930 billion. Obviously, it is suggested that any unification would benefit the North more than the South, and South Korea would, of course, bear the brunt of this expense.

McDonald's recently announced their ambitious plans to quadruple the number of restaurants in Korea., There are currently 237 stores, which makes it the second-largest burger chain following Lotteria, Korea's own fast-food hamburger chain with 800 stores nationwide. According to their press release, McDonald's says Korea is the wealthiest market where they don't have at least 1,000 stores.

Following the conclusion of the 2010 Winter Olympics, estimates suggest that Korea will earn nearly $18 billion (20 trillion Won) in economic effects and intangible value from their strong performance during the games. Wow! The intangible value includes a heightened sense of pride, stronger Korean culture and artistic self-confidence. In addition, many believe this will help increase Korea's opportunity to host the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.

The economic value of Yuna Kim's gold medal in women's figure skating alone is valued at over 5 trillion Won, and she will serve as an ambassador to the Pyeongcheong host committee.

Korean baseball is back, as the season officially opened last week. I have yet to make it to a game, though it's on my short list for next month. Strangely, as popular as baseball is in Korea, it is not a profitable business. Six of eight teams reported losses in 2008, and it is estimated each team annually loses between 15-20 billion Won (almost $20 million) on baseball operations. In fact, since the league started in 1982, it's been more of a publicity gig for the corporate-owned and named teams.

Thats about it, really. The clock continues to tick...

Thursday, March 18, 2010

March News

Less than two months to go..

Late February/early March brought unusually warm temperatures to the Korean Peninsula. Perhaps it was a bit premature to indulge in the warmth, but damn it felt good. It was especially nice to open the windows in the apartment and get outside and run.

Sadly, less than two weeks later, the premature nature of the "false spring" proved true with return to more winter-like temperatures and a light snowfall March 8th. Damn!

Recent holidays:

Apparently, in Korea, along with Taiwan and Japan, they celebrate Valentine's Day on February 14, and something called White Day one month later on March 14. I guess the idea behind this is Valentines Day is for the men to indulge themselves with gifts and attention from women, and women, in turn, indulge themselves with gifts from men on White Day. Go figure.

March 3rd was Samgyeopsal Day, an informal Korean holiday. Because "Sam" means three in Korea, the date is obvious. Samgyeopsal is "3 layer pork". I was completely oblivious to this, but once I learned of the holiday, I celebrated with a scrumptious lunch of my favorite Korean food. Besides, who doesn't love delicious pork grilled table side with all the traditional accompaniments? Lunch or dinner, it's all good with me!

March 1st was Korean Independence Movement Day. This date marks a significant event in Korean history, when 33 nationalists marched against Japanese occupation in 1919. The nationalists were later arrested, tortured, and this event sparked an outrage amongst the Korean people. To the Koreans, it's just one more incident in a long history of hatred against Japanese atrocities.

The March 1st holiday meant another 3 day weekend for Ethan, so I returned to the Taean Peninsula, only this time with a car. Last time I visited the area was in August (Week XVI) with my former friend Alvin, prior to his expulsion from the country. Because we only had public transit at that time, we were limited to our campground at Mongsanpo Beach and we could not thoroughly explore the area. It was especially uncomfortable on the ride home, when Alvin and I had to stand for over three hours on the bus. Following this bus ride from hell, I vowed to return one day under more comfortable circumstances.

Following a three hour car ride with moderate traffic and light rain, Gemma and I arrived in Mallipo late Saturday afternoon, just in time to select accommodations prior to the sun setting. After about an hour of comparing various beachfront pensions, we finally selected the Pinocchio Pension. It was a near perfect setting, and my travel partner was somehow able to convince the owner to provide us with a 20% discount for two nights stay. Hooray!

Mallipo is a beachfront community located approximately 175 kilometers Southwest of Seoul, at the Northern tip of the Taean Peninsula. The entire peninsula features some 530 kilometers of coastline and contains some 120 islands. A large part of the area consists of the Taean Coast National Marine Park, which boasts 230 kilometers of shoreline and 72 islands of its own. The topography is composed of low pine-filled mountains, large sandy beaches, and rocky cliffs overlooking the ocean. It's really beautiful, and as I previously noted, reminds me a lot of Northern Michigan.

Numerous fishing villages dot the area and serve as both a tourist attraction and a great place for seafood lunch. Squid is popular, as is hameltang, a shellfish noodle dish served in a hot broth. Batter dipped and fried prawns are also a treat, and can be purchased from a variety of street vendors. I chose to avoid most dried fish, including the scary alien-looking fish and the ever-popular Korean favorite, dried squid.

The Chollipo Arboretum is another well-known attraction, located only a few kilometers from Mallipo. I first learned about this in a Wall Street Journal travel article back in May 2009, and since then, I have always wanted to visit. The article titled Seoul: One Man's Dream of a World Class Arboretum is worth the time to read it, and actually, that's what originally introduced me to the Taean area. Sadly, the weather was uncooperative the day we intended to visit there, though I did strongly evaluate this decision in the parking lot, and I took a brochure from the park prior to leaving.

Total cost of the weekend adventure was around 300,000 Won, which included gas (60,000 Won), two nights lodging (160,000 Won with discount), groceries at E-Mart and meals. Not bad for a euphoric weekend and some quality time with the lovely Gemma. The highlight of all this was spotting the semi-naked elderly couple in the backseat of an SUV parked at Mongsanpo Beach. That was a true surprise.

Other news:

I reunited again with former student and good friend, B.H. for BBQ dinner and good conversation. After dinner, he invited me to his home for coffee, which is a beautiful luxury apartment in the town of Suji. I also was fortunate to meet his wife for the first time. Sadly, I fear it will only be possible for B.H. and I to gather again one or two times before I depart for the U.S.

On a recent trip to COEX Mall, I noticed that Crazy Heart was showing at the theater and decided to watch it. This was only my fifth experience at the Korean cinema. Previous films included last year's Star Trek, Avatar (in 3-D), 2012 (I regret watching this), and the Korean film Take Off.

Lately I have been suffering an extreme longing for Western food. Please don't mistake my words, I very much love Korean food, it's just I'm tired of the same old restaurants in Sanbon. This has led me to several new restaurants in Seoul.

Mad For Garlic is pretty much what the name suggests; garlic everything! It's a Korean chain with 11 locations and an impressive wine list, for Korean standards. For an appetizer, we ordered a large caesar salad, pretty much traditional with a creamy garlic dressing, and crunchy croutons. Most delicious, and we agreed it was the best part of the meal. A thin crust cheese with pizza gorgonzola and a pasta dish loaded with garlic and Mexican spices were shared for the main course. The pizza was good, but the pasta was overwhelmingly spicy. Total cost of the food was around 45,000 Won plus tax. A bit on the expensive side, but unfortunately, that's the price you pay for Western food in Korea.

Chili King Korea is located in Itaewon, the infamous foreigner neighborhood of Seoul. I first read about it in an article published in The Korea Herald, which can be a great way to learn about different restaurants throughout Seoul. Sadly, both Gemma and I were a little disappointed in The Chili King. The burger was not as delicious as my local favorite, Krazy Burger, and the chili cheese fries were a poor attempt with crinkle cut fries, a tiny portion of chili, and "cheese" from a squeeze bottle. The restaurant is a tiny shoebox located off an alley, and the owner enjoys singing to an assorted sampling of classic 80's music while preparing your food. All this has a cost of around 30,000 Won. Not a good investment and a poor attempt at satisfying a grown man's craving for some chili.

Sorrento Pizza and Pasta is the surprise hit of the season. I have now sampled both their margherita pizza and their gorgonzola pizzas. Each are an excellent creation, loaded with cheese and priced around 14,000 Won. The gorgonzola is also topped with salty potato chips, which gives it a little crunch and some added flavor. Honestly speaking, this pizza is better tasting than the similarly-priced version at Mad For Garlic.

That's about it. Next weekend is another three day holiday from school, and I am planning a reunion with my friends in Busan. Following this, I'm sure there will be lots to report.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

KOREA Week XXXXV

A sampling of random events over the past month or so..

On February 9 there was a 3.0 magnitude earthquake felt throughout Korea. It's epicenter was about 20 kilometers from my home, and I was delighted to experience my first earthquake. Actually, it felt like a large truck passed by the building or some type of vibration from construction. My enthusiasm was short lived, however, when friends in Chicago reported a 4.1 magnitude earthquake the very next day.

Recently, I went bowling for the first time in Korea and yours truly bowled a surprising 173 in the first game. Not bad for almost a year away from the game. Bowling in Korea is surprisingly comparable to bowling back in the states, aside from the velcro bowling shoes which not only fit a little to snug but also come out of a vending machine, bowling balls which read "Made in China", and a surprisingly lack of alcohol service. Even more surprising, the staff do not appreciate it when the patrons attempt to sneak in bottles of beer.

Lately I have been enjoying some Elmore Leonard novels I purchased from a foreign teacher friend who recently departed for Thailand. Elmore Leonard is one of the best and five paperback novels for 20,000 Won is a great value.

One late night two drunken Korean men commented to Gemma that I looked a lot like Bruce Willis. As funny as this may seem, I have heard both this and Kiefer Sutherland countless times in Korea. What was even more funny, after the drunken men stumbled off Gemma proceeded to tell me how much she hates it when people say that. When I asked why, she told me because I don't look anything like Bruce Willis. Fair enough. Then who do I look like? I don't know, she says, maybe Robin Williams. Thanks for that, but I think I prefer Bruce Willis.

Two weeks ago, on a relatively warm (35 Fahrenheit) afternoon, Gemma and I walked the entire length of Cheonggye Stream. (Click here for a brief video on Cheonggye Stream courtesy of The NY Times) It's total length is 11.5 kilometers as it winds its way through central Seoul. Ever since my first visit to the stream back in June, I have been fascinated with it and have wanted to complete the walk. And with only two months remaining in Korea, I choose this Valentine's Day to drag my surprisingly enthusiastic Korean girlfriend to join me for the trip.


Cheonggye Stream begins near Gwanghamun, the center of many government offices and famous scenes of public protest. The area has a rich history beginning in the Joseon Dynasty around 1400 AD through its modern day use, following its comprehensive restoration project in 2004. What I like best about the stream, aside from its history and it significance to the Korean people, is how a 11.5 kilometer long green space can exist in the middle of one of the largest, busiest, and most densely packed cities in the world. At the end of the stream is the Han River and Seoul Forest, the second largest park in the city. Both are truly great; a recommendation for any Seoul visitor, best in summer, but can be enjoyable any time of year.

Olympic news:

The 2010 Winter Olympics have come and gone. What a fantastic two weeks it was! It was especially exciting to follow the games while abroad. I most assuredly cheered for the U.S. athletes, including the Men's Hockey team, though I was secretly pleased with the success of the Korean athletes who finished in seventh place overall with a total of 14 medals.

The Korean speed skaters enjoyed a tremendous success, and the Korean hatred toward Apolo Anton Ohno, was hard to ignore. It seems their hostility following the unfortunate incident at the 2002 Olympic games is not forgotten. I must admit, however, that many Koreans did not seem too interested in the games other than the profound success of the Korean speed skaters and, of course, Yuna Kim.

A couple words about Yuna Kim. First of all, at only 20 years of age, she is Korea's darling sweetheart and Korea's highest paid athlete. It is reported she made nearly $10 million last year in endorsements, and it is easy to believe this when you see her photo pasted throughout the country, advertising everything from milk to air conditioners. Really, she is that popular. I also heard she was the second highest paid athlete at the Winter games, second only to Shaun White.

Best of all, she is a Sanbon native and graduate of Suri High School. In fact, many of my students live in the same apartment complex as her family or have children who graduated with her. Of course, she no longer lives in Sanbon, and has called Toronto home for the past four years. Nonetheless, she remains a national hero, and one week following her gold medal, Yuna Fever is in full effect.

Ethan's brief ranting:

KB Bank, the nation's largest bank, shut down all their banking services last week while they updated their computer systems. I was told they sent a text message to their Korean customers informing them of their intentions. Unfortunately, they failed to notify their English speaking customers of this interruption, thus leaving many foreigners stranded without use of their bank card or access to ATM services. James, my American co-teacher, told me he was without cash and had no means of purchasing anything on the day this occurred. I, fortunately, was carrying enough cash when my card was declined at a restaurant that day. I also have a second account at a different bank I was able to use that day.

Since this incident originally occurred, there have been many opportunities to discuss the implications of this. Consensus is myself and many others find it inexcusable that the bank would experience such an oversight. With over one million foreigners living in Korea, that's a substantial enough number to warrant comprehensive banking services to all customers, regardless of nationality or language. Especially when you consider the fact that most bank employees speak English and are more than capable of providing adequate warning to their English speaking customers when their banking services will be interrupted.

Sorry to sound so negative, but this incident makes me think about just how dependent we foreigners are on so many different levels while living abroad. This, and, we probably take too many things for granted. Monthly paychecks and basic banking services are two that come to mind. Without access to cash, we are powerless and cannot do much of anything. Without Korean friends or a helpful school manager, it becomes even more difficult to survive.

So lesson learned; keep adequate cash on hand at all times, don't lose your passport or other important documents, and always keep a wealth of Korean friends on standby. You never know when you will need their assistance.

And keep on keeping on...