Monday, September 28, 2009

KOREA Week XXII

Monday, September 28, 2009 at 10:20pm

Temperatures have been increasingly colder here in the South of Korea. It's amazing how similar they actually are to temperatures in the Midwest of America, though the fall temperatures here seem to be a few weeks behind their U.S. counterparts. Recent days have been comfortable in the mid to upper 70's, while nights may drop down to mid to lower 60's or even upper 50's, Fahrenheit, of course. I have also noticed some leaves beginning to fall, though most leaves have yet to turn color and will probably not do so until mid to late October.

Teaching continues to go well, though I miss the record high number of students experienced during the summer vacation months. Mostly, I miss some of the students I taught the past five months, and I wish they would return to school or I could pick and choose my students. One of my favorite classes is Happy Class, a discounted class offered late mornings on Monday/Wednesday for mostly housewives. We always have good discussion and they are a great class, though I sometimes think the students grow tired of the topics I select (usually cooking, cultural differences, my Korean travel plans, etc.) Kelly, Young, Cool, and Christine have each been in the class for several months now and we have an excellent relationship. In fact, sometimes we have lunch together immediately following class, coffee, or I prepare peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for the group. Kelly, Young, and Christine have also been instrumental in helping me adjust to Korean life and find my way around town. For this, I am incredibly grateful.

Another of my other favorite classes is Business English taught every Tuesday/Thursday evening. Good friend and favorite student B.H. has been a prominent fixture in this class from Day 1, and the number of students continues to grow each month. Currently, we are up to a record high 9 students enrolled this month in the class. Possibly some of my best lessons and class discussions have been here. Maybe it's just because I'm a Business major or have a profound interest in the subject, but some of our discussions have included: the competitive advantage of Starbucks in Korea, analysis of Hyundai Kia Automotive Group and their recent success, use of technology and innovation in our daily lives and how to apply this to our professions, economical issues, etc. Actually, if enrollment continues to increase, I hope to convince the school to open a second Business English class offered in the morning.

I have but a few complaints with teaching, and they are all minor. First of all, some Koreans do not stay home when they are sick. Instead, they come to class sneezing and coughing for others to see and be exposed to. It's a bit annoying, especially when many here blame the foreigners for exposure to swine flu. I have made it a practice to keep hand sanitizer in class and make sure to wash thoroughly after touching items in the classroom, after every class, just to be safe.

Another complaint are the few students who attend class once or twice a month, and usually do not have much to contribute when they do attend. It's silly for me to complain about this as it's their money they're wasting, but I truly do care about the students and the quality of the education I offer them. Another complaint along this line is one particular class I am teaching this month where the students do not like to speak or have difficulty becoming active in the class discussion. After four weeks, I am so frustrated with the class, I have told the school I cannot teach them after this month. It's incredibly aggravating, and James, who taught this class last month, had the same frustration with them. I guess I should be fortunate that, after five months, this is the only class I have experienced this difficulty with.

Aside from these minor complaints, and really, they all seem trivial, I can honestly say I love teaching and I'm delighted with my decision to be here. Teaching is something I never thought I would do in my adult life, let alone be any good at, and it's surprising where life can lead you. This experience, I think, so many friends of mine would not only enjoy, but surprisingly, be very good at. One of the best parts about my job, aside from the friendships I have forged with many students, is the laughter we often share together in class. It's these jovial and outgoing individuals who make my teaching experience worthwhile.

I have begun to get this same satisfaction from my experience reading children's books at the library on a weekly basis. Once again, this is something I never thought I would enjoy, let alone be successful with. Each week, there are usually between 20-40 children, perhaps 5-8 years average age, with another 10-20 parents in attendance. I recognize many of the same faces each week, and on most days I am lucky enough to get a big smile or sometimes even a hug from them. Some of the children have also brought me presents. Others remain skeptical around me and prefer their comfort of their parent's arms. Not to sound incredibly lame, but I find this to be a very rewarding experience and it makes me feel good to give something back.

An interesting observation is just how incredibly well young Korean schoolchildren can speak English, and often, with little or no accent at all. Usually, the older students speak with some form of an accent, even a slight English or Australian accent depending upon if they may have studied or lived abroad. The reason for the difference is because the older students did not begin their studies until a later age, perhaps middle school, and this difference is largely noticeable.

English education at a pre-school or kindergarten age remains a controversial subject here in Korea. In fact, this topic has been the source of many discussions in class. It truly is unbelievable the importance and emphasis on English skills in this country, as it seems to be a pre-requisite for college entrance and employment. In other words, one's English ability determines their place in society, and it beckons the question if the Korean language will someday disappear or simply fade away.

The positive side, of course, is the high demand this creates for native English teachers, such as myself. Korean institutions and public schools pay attractive salaries, provide good benefits and usually free housing for foreign teachers. ESL teaching really is a remarkable way to experience life outside North America and learn about a foreign country, it's people, their history and language.

Here's another observation. Students in my Saturday a.m. class and were discussing American holidays and the subject of parades came up. Korea, apparently, rarely has parades, which is disappointing. I was told they used to have a parade every year for Soldiers Day, first week of November, though this practice has ended within the past ten years or so. When asking my students why there no longer is a parade on Soldiers Day, I was told because the tanks destroyed the roads. Apparently, Soldiers Day in Korea used to present to the public a massive march of thousands of soldiers accompanied by a an arsenal, literally, of military equipment, missiles, tanks, etc. Wow!

The approaching weekend, October 1-4 is Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok, and it's a four day holiday from my school. I have learned Chuseok is, perhaps, one of the most important Korean holidays and, similar to the U.S., is a time for families to gather and celebrate the good things in life. Small gifts are often shared with others, delicious foods are prepared, and many, many people travel, thus making it difficult to go anywhere. Despite the logistical difficulties, I have managed to secure KoRail passage to Pusan, where I will visit with Toledo friends Greg and Brian, and Greg's girlfriend, Suji. Another fun weekend, I am sure, will be had by all.

Best wishes!

Monday, September 21, 2009

KOREA Week XXI

Monday, September 21, 2009 at 3:45pm

Wibro Wireless internet has arrived in my Korean life! It's a USB plug-in antenna which allows me, in theory, to connect to the internet anywhere in the Gyeonggi-do province (metro Seoul area). I signed a twelve month contract with KT Telecom for 22,000 Won per month and no out-of-pocket expense. Not bad, though I had to return to COEX Mall last week for a complete reinstall of the Wibro software on my computer. Hopefully, this proves to be a convenient and trouble-free solution to the internet connectivity issues which have plagued me from day one in Korea.

I recently learned that one of my students in Step 4 class lived in Ann Arbor, MI for three years and studied at Wayne State University in Detroit. Small world; though she didn't seem to know much about Toledo and Northwest Ohio. Nonetheless, it was a nice connection to make and we have since had many interesting discussions about Ann Arbor and her short time spent there.

Last week, I returned to my new favorite restaurant in Sanbon, and location of the nearly disastrous oil fire during my second visit there. Thursday night, I treated two of my favorite Korean friends, B.H. and Gemma, to late night Galbi dinner. It was a great evening shared with two great people, and together the three of us feasted on thinly sliced beef, the many traditional Korean accompaniments, and Ginseng soju from my personal stash that I now keep at the restaurant. That's right, I have my own bottle of Ginseng-soaked soju with my name proudly written on it and kept on hand at the restaurant.

There was no class Friday, so I ventured South to meet Toledo friend Greg and his Korean girlfriend, Suji, in JiriSan National Park. JiriSan National Park is the largest of the Korean National Parks and boasts some of the tallest, steepest terrain in the country. Overall, it was a wonderful weekend, and nice to reconnect with this contingency from Toledo/Pusan.

Because of the late night Thursday, I did not actually leave Sanbon until close to 3pm Friday, which meant taking the 4pm bus from Nambu Bus Terminal In Seoul and 8pm arrival in JinJu. A major mistake on my part, but worth it because Thursday night was a great time. From JinJu, it's another hour long bus ride to Jung San Li, the mountain location of the resort we stayed in. Unfortunately, my late night arrival in a strange country town without street lights led to me getting lost and wandering for over an hour before finally locating the resort around 1030pm.

I am incredibly fortunate every time I travel in Korea, as I always seem to have good luck and encounter some friendly Korean who speaks just enough English to assist me. In this case, I met my new Korean friend on the bus ride to Jung San Li, and after getting lost the first time, he helped guide me to the resort. Additionally, he joined me for late night dinner and shared the cost of the hotel room for the first night so my cost was only 20,000 Won instead of the standard 40,000 Won.

What was most disappointing about my weekend travel was immediately following the hour long bus ride to Jung San Li, when the nasty bus driver insisted I pay him a second fare. This was despite the fact I provided my original ticket to a different attendant upon entering the bus, who eagerly accepted my ticket, helped me handle my luggage, and showed me to my seat. The driver's attitude really rubbed me the wrong way, but as my new Korean friend pointed out using subtle English vocabulary, "it's okay. Pay the man the money and let's go." Even though it was only 6,000 Won, I still felt cheated and it did not sit well with me.

Greg and Suji arrived early Saturday morning, 10am, from Pusan, and we enjoyed a quick breakfast before departing for our day hike to the mountain. Originally, we were told 7-8 hours to the summit and back (11 km.), though less than one hour into the hike, we quickly realized this was near impossible due to the steep, rocky terrain that was the trail. Instead, we hiked two hours to Beopgye Temple, enjoyed a free lunch sponsored by the temple staff, and lingered here for almost two hours before returning down the mountain. It was the correct decision, because there is no way we could have reached the summit and made it safely down the mountain prior to darkness setting in. The terrain was too steep and too challenging to negotiate in dim light or the dark. As it was, the hike to/from the temple was 7 kilometers and was challenging. Besides, it gives us an excuse to return for a 2-3 day overnight hike and camp on the mountain; something we are currently planning for.

So, we returned to our resort motel at around 6pm Saturday where we each showered, relaxed, and prepared a phenomenal four course meal complete with pork tenderloin, beef tenderloin, sauteed vegetables, rice, and soju. After negotiating with the motel manager, Suji was allowed to prepare a campfire, confined to my portable charcoal grill and the brick patio where we cooked. All in all it was a great night and we quickly made friends with another couple staying at the motel, along with the motel manager and his girlfriend, who each joined us for dinner and drinks.

Sunday morning, we awoke around 10am, cooked steak and eggs for breakfast, cleaned up from the night before, and departed for JinJu on the 1pm bus. I did manage to get stung by a bee while cooking breakfast; something that has not happened to me in Korea up until this time. Once in JinJu we ate sushi lunch and toured JinJu Castle, a large castle and beautiful gardens located along the banks of the Nam River, with a deep history dating back to 1592 during the first Japanese invasion of the Korean Peninsula. According to history, some 3,800 Korean soldiers successfully defended the castle against a surge of 20,000 Japanese troops, before they eventually fell during the second invasion a year later in 1593.

If ever in JinJu or Gyeongsang Province, I highly recommend a visit to JinJu Castle. It's tremendously worth the 6,000 Won entrance fee.

The 7pm bus leaving JinJu meant that I did not arrive until 11pm in Seoul, and after midnight in Sanbon. A late Sunday night and long weekend, but well worth it. Cost of the weekend was as follows:

40,000 Won KoRail bus to/from JinJu
12,000 Won bus to/from Jung San Li (+ extra 6,000 Won)
50,000 Won for two night's accommodation at resort motel in Jung San Li
20,000 Won food/beer/soju for Friday night, Saturday, and Sunday morning

Weekend spent away from home, hiking with friends at one of Korea's most beautiful national parks: Priceless.

Monday, September 14, 2009

KOREA Week XX

Monday, September 14, 2009 at 4:45pm

Week twenty. Woo-hoo!

I have recently met some new friends in Sanbon and have been hanging out with them. Most of the other teachers here are younger, perhaps mid-twenties, and so it is rare to find a group of Westerners that is of a more mature age. It's also funny to meet new arrivals here in town, as I am reminded of the amazement and bewilderment I felt when I first arrived some four and a half months ago. Introducing someone to favorite restaurants and late night NoraeBang is especially fun, as is the Mandoo truck, a popular late night fixture in town center and nourishing meal for around 2,500 Won. Delicious!

Week II guitar classes are going well. This is despite the obvious language barrier that exists between me and my Korean instructor. Also, the class is filled with a bunch of rowdy Korean teenagers, who, at first, were amazed at the 30 year old foreigner sharing their class and laughed very hard at my arrival. It's okay, I'm used to it. The guitar I purchased last week in Itaewon is now tuned, and I am practicing as best I can outside the class. If any of my guitar playing friends who may be reading this blog want to offer any suggestions, I am all ears.

Many new restaurants have opened recently in Sanbon. What is most amazing, to me, is the turnaround time they require to remodel the space and suddenly appear open for business. Lately, I have been strolling through town, and suddenly there is a new restaurant I have never noticed before. It's almost as if they appear overnight. In fact, one late night I did notice a construction crew working diligently on a space, only to find the restaurant open for business approximately two days later. No joke.

One of these new restaurants is a delicious samgyeopsal (thinly sliced pork) and galbi (thinly sliced beef) establishment that James and I visited one evening between classes. For their grand opening, they provided free bottles of soju, which was a real treat before late night class. The restaurant was so delicious, I took Alvin there later that same week. It was during this second visit, that we almost set the restaurant on fire. Because most samgyeopsal restaurants feature a gas grill on every table, the risk for a fire, I suppose, is increased. Or so, that is what I would like to believe.

In fact, the oil from our grill did overheat and cause a flare-up, and also, in fact, we twice alerted our teenage waiter that the flames were getting higher and the grill was getting significantly hotter. Both calls for action, I would like to point out, he did ignore. So, by the time it was noticed by someone other that the pimple faced kid whose responsibility it should have been to look after us, the flames were slightly out of control. In fact, it did take nearly the entire restaurant staff to attempt to extinguish the flames, and thankfully, prevent our pubescent waiter from dowsing the fire with more water. That, in fact, would have been disastrous.

Long story short, Alvin and I received free bottles of Cass beer for the inconvenience of the fire at our table. And, I am now well recognized and given special treatment every time I return to dine there. Later this same week, and on my third visit to the restaurant, there was a television crew filming an interview, so once again, free soju was provided to those fortunate enough to be a part of this. Since the interview was entirely in Korean, I can only guess how James and I looked in the eyes of the camera and the millions of Korean viewers. I am still searching for the footage, and if I am fortunate enough to locate it, I will surely post it for all to see.

We have been reading many automotive articles in business class and discussing the competitive advantage of Hyundai Kia Automotive Group. It's a fascinating subject for me, as I have learned many things about one of Korea's largest companies and a source of national pride. Hyundai is actually a chaebol, or a family-run Korean conglomerate, owning a multitude of companies ranging from construction equipment, to elevators, land development, finance, department stores, mining, and petroleum. Other noteworthy chaebols include Samsung and LG.

More interesting facts about Hyundai include:

Hyundai Motor Company has grown to become the world's 5th largest automotive company, and employs some 75,000 people globally; both rather impressive figures considering the company was founded in 1967.

Hyundai Kia Automotive Group was the only automaker to post significant profits and increased market share, not only on a worldwide basis, but especially in the crippled U.S. market. According to some reports, U.S. sales rose 47% for Hyundai and 60% for Kia between 2008 and 2009, and their worldwide sales continues to increase from the previous year. Amazing! I have also read reports which suggest it's the second largest automaker in India, and it's increasingly popular in European markets.

Hyundai's popular 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty and two year buyback guarantee is a major reason for their U.S. success, as is the recent launch of many new and redesigned models. Improved quality reflected by numerous awards, including Consumer reports and J.D. Power and Associates, is also an attribute.

The flagship Hyundai Genesis was named North American Car of the Year and won a combined twenty industry awards. Priced at around $35,000 U.S.D., it is designed to compete with more expensive BMW and Lexus models, which is exactly what it's styling reminds me of; something of a cross between the BMW 5 or 7 series and the Lexus LS at approximately half the cost.

The newly redesigned Sonata sedan and Tucson SUV are not only good looking, but are designed and priced to go head to head with product rivals from Toyota, Honda, and Nissan.

The Equus line, Hyundai's premier luxury line and similar to that of Lexus to Toyota, Acura to Honda, or Infiniti to Nissan, is scheduled to go on sale in the U.S. sometime in 2010 or 2011 and should be major competition for those aforementioned carmakers.

Strangely, and despite their worldwide success, Hyundai's market share in Korea is actually slipping. For years, they were one of a handful of automakers sold in Korea, the most popular of which included; GM Daewoo, Renault Samsung (which is uniquely similar to the Nissan model line because of it's affiliation with French company Renault), and Ssangyang Motors. Ford, Chrysler, Peugeot, Volkswagen, BMW, Audi, and Mercedes are all sold here but remain a minority amongst the more popular and less expensive Korean brands.

Even more strange; popular Japanese brands such as Toyota, Honda, and Nissan have only been recently introduced to the Korean marketplace. Lexus was first introduced in 2001, Honda was introduced in 2007, Toyota and Nissan both in 2009, and Mazda does not appear to exist in Korea.

Other exciting news this week:

Last weekend, I saw a Korean man in Seoul wearing a Put-in-Bay Lake Erie t-shirt. I was unable to stop and talk with him, but nonetheless, it reminded me of home and made me feel good. It's funny how something so simple can make someone feel good. You can be, literally, half-way across the world and see something or meet someone from close to your home, and it can make, pardon the pun, all the difference in the world.

On Friday, there were no classes so I visited a university located in Daejeon, approximately two hours south of Seoul or only one hour by high speed KTX train. I read about the school in the Korea Herald, and they offer a two year accredited MBA program for only $25,000 U.S.D. Incredible, especially when you consider the tuition fee includes room and board. At this time, it's only a consideration in my eyes, but one cannot dispute the value. Daejeon is actually the fifth-largest city in South Korea with over 1 million residents, and is referred to as the "Silicon Valley of Korea" as many technology and R&D firms are located here. Check out their website: The SolBridge International School of Business (http://www.solbridge.ac.kr/). More info to soon follow on this subject.

The remainder of this past weekend was spent cleaning my apartment, reading, taking many naps, improving my dart game, and otherwise laying low. This coming week is only a four day week, so I will most likely use the three day weekend to travel somewhere. Details to follow next week.

Monday, September 7, 2009

KOREA Week XIX

Monday, September 7, 2009 at 3:05pm

September in Korea. New classes have begun and football season (as viewed from Korea) has arrived!

Many students have disappeared from my life as of September 1. While I miss them already, I am only slightly concerned about the decreasing enrollment at my hagwon. It seems that many former students have returned to their respective schools or university, and I am uncertain of the whereabouts of the others. This is disappointing for many reasons, mostly because I prefer teaching classes in excess of 3-4 students. The current average of 2-3 students per class is far below that of previous months and usually makes classes less exciting. This, and I can honestly say, hopefully without sounding too harsh, that I have a difficult time with the students in one particular class. So far, it is like pulling teeth to get them to talk.

Exciting happenings this week:

Saturday afternoon I traveled with Marcus, Tiann, and Alvin to Seoul for the South Korea vs. Australia soccer match. The Red Devils are the official team for the Republic of Korea National Football Association (KFA) and are widely known for their loyal following of supporters. Seoul World Cup Stadium is a magnificent facility located in Western Seoul that seats some 66,000 fans, and was, obviously, a key feature during the 2002 FIFA World Cup. The boys and I arrived close to 5pm and purchased tickets for 10,000 Won each, prior to the 8pm kick-off. Since this was my first professional soccer game, in addition to my first sporting event in Korea, it was most impressive.

The Red Devils got off to a quick 1-0 lead over the Aussies, amid chants of "Dae-han Minguk" which literally means "Republic of Korea". This popular chant was heard throughout the 90 minute game followed by clap-clap-clap--clap-clap. It was also common to hear the men behind us commenting loudly "cho-a" (good), "nice-a", "oh shit-a", and "yes-yes!" All of which, remained with our group throughout the evening and well into the early morning hours as we continued to celebrate the Devils' 3-1 win over Australia. My young friend, So-Young, also joined us for the game and afterwards when we traveled to the Hongdae neighborhood of Seoul, a popular area for foreigners and late night party-goers. Here we visited several exciting bars with good music and cheap drinks, including a wonderful mexican restaurant serving late-night burritos.

The celebration continued until around 4am, when the boys and I finally taxied home to Sanbon. Cost of the 40 minute taxi ride should normally be around 40,000 Won, though we successfully negotiated a 32,000 Won fare, thus making it only 8,000 Won each. The downside to the reduced fare was the speed-centric driver who preferred to transport us at warp speed (150 km/h or 90+ mph) on the barren expressway. Normally this would be okay with me, except he did not appear to be in perfect control of the vehicle and the rear shocks of the aged Hyundai sedan were more than a little worn. So Tiann, perhaps the most fluent of us in Korean, politely asked him to slow down, which he did without incident. Following my description of this to Monday morning's classes, I have since learned these late night taxi's from Seoul to outlying communities are called "bullet taxi's" for the very reason that drivers prefer to deliver their precious cargo and return to Seoul as quickly as possible.

Quick observation; Koreans love to use their horns. Whether it be on a bus, scooter, or late night taxi ride from Seoul, a sounding horn is almost as common as kimchi in Korea. It's especially annoying when listened to from my seventh floor apartment. As an example of this irritation, my Facebook posting from September 1 read as follows, "
Dear impatient sirs in the alley below my apartment. Please stop honking your horns. The truck blocking the street is not moving so there's no point to continue honking. Find another way to go around." Another fine example, when browsing the used car section of Korean craigslist, I read the following description for a 1989 Hyundai Sonata, "Great working condition. Only problem, the horn is disconnected - I just yell out the window." Both of which demonstrate the frustration which is felt by many, including myself, at others inconsiderate driving displays, and even more so at their ways of sounding their frustrations.

Late Sunday afternoon, and following almost 10 delightful hours of sleep, Alvin and I traveled to COEX Mall and Itaewon for food and shopping. COEX is a large underground shopping mall and convention center complete with aquarium and Kimchi Museum. I have also read mixed reports claiming it is the largest underground shopping mall in Asia. Either way, Alvin was searching for computer accessories and I wanted to get out of my apartment for the day. This proved to be a great decision for me, as I found and purchased a guitar for only 45,000 Won, including a case, at an antique store in Itaewon. It's a Korean made guitar, a Tanara 6 string in fair condition, and was only slightly out of tune. Regardless, it was cheaper than almost any other guitar I have seen in Korea, new or used, and I will soon begin to enjoy.

Since Western food seems to be a rare treat in my life, I utilize almost every opportunity I have to dine at Western restaurants whenever in Seoul. As a result, Sunday's dinner was Kraze Burger, a Korean burger chain that is possibly the best cheeseburger I have eaten in Korea. (www.kraze.co.kr) Yes, it's that good, and is probably better than the "big as your head" cheeseburger I enjoyed in Busan just two weeks ago. I strongly recommend this to anyone visiting Seoul or living in the area who is hungry for a glutinous display of American style dining. Cost of the burger was 9,000 Won. Chili cheese fries are an extra 6,500 Won, depending on the condition of your hunger. Later that night, we also visited the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon, a popular expat hangout, for a snack and cold Moosehead beer prior to the hour-long subway ride home.

Seoul is an enormous city, filled with pollution and congestion, but it offers many different types of food and it can be fun, in moderation. While I very much enjoy my afternoon and weekend trips to Seoul, I also prefer the quiet comforts of sleepy and pollution-free Sanbon.

Seoul Fun Facts:
  1. It's the fifth largest city in the world with over 11 million residents and another 10-15 million suburban residents classified by it's metropolitan area. Almost half the country's population resides in the metropolitan Seoul area, some 22+ million people.
  2. Seoul has been the capital of the Korean peninsula since 1394 and through the Korean War, when it was virtually destroyed and the capital was temporarily relocated to the southern city of Busan.
  3. Seoul is the financial capital of Korea, which is also the fourth-largest Asian economy, following that of Japan, China, and India. South Korea is currently ranked as the 15th largest global economy.
  4. The 1988 Summer Olympics brought international attention to Seoul and helped shape its current position as a leading Asian city.
  5. Seoul was one of ten Korean cities to host the 2002 FIFA World Cup including the impressive World Cup Stadium, located in West Seoul.
  6. It's known as one of the safest places to travel due to its relatively low crime rate.
  7. Seoul is home to over 100 museums.
  8. Home to the world's largest indoor amusement park, LotteWorld.
  9. Two international airports service Seoul: Incheon International Airport, opened in 2001, and Gimpo International Airport. Incheon International Airport was recently voted the World's Best Airport according to SkyTrax.
  10. One of the world's most technologically advanced infrastructures and often called the "Tech capital of the world." It is also advertised as being the most wired city in the world (internet) and boasts the world's fastest internet connection speed.
  11. The city is bordered by eight mountains and is split into a Northern and Southern half by the Han River.
  12. There are four ancient palaces located in Seoul.
  13. Traffic is highly congested in Seoul, and therefore, it is usually best to travel by subway, bus, or taxi. There are a total of twelve subway lines connecting all of metropolitan Seoul as well as an intricate bus and train system linking the many cities throughout Korea.
Peace out.