The Best
Favorite Things About Living in Korea:
1. Meeting New Friends - students especially, I have enjoyed almost everyone I met and I will miss them when I depart.
2. The Food - Its nutritious, its delicious, it wreaks of garlic and red pepper, and I love it. As if this weren't enough, its reasonably cheap. Nuff said.
3. Traveling the countryside. I have been almost everywhere in this country and it never gets old. I love the fact that the country is 70% mountains, the many National Parks are great, the rivers, and the oceans. It's all good.
4. Learning Korean culture. It's one of the oldest continuous civilizations in the world with over 5,000 years of rich history. Fascinating in so many regards.
5. Beautiful Korean Women - they're everywhere, difficult not to notice, and I love them.
Bets Places to Travel in Seoul:
1. Cheonggye Stream - some may describe it as the heart of Seoul; it features a 11.5 km. riverwalk that is great for jogging or perfect for a stroll.
2. NamSan and Seoul Tower - this mountain is one of four distinct mountains surrounding Seoul. Actually, it's the only mountain completely in Seoul, while the others surround the city. Seoul Tower provides great views of the city and is a favorite amongst tourists.
3. Insadong - popular tourist destination with traditional Korean stores and souvenir shops. Despite the popularity and large weekend crowds, it's a good opportunity to view Korean art and culture in a condensed package. A good recommendation for any Seoul visitor.
4. National Museum of Korea - one of the largest museum in the world, I was originally told it takes a minimum nine hours to see everything. It's a great museum, I've been there three or four times and I still have yet to finish the third floor.
5. SeonyuDo - botanical island located in the middle of the Han River. I first visited here back in October on a perfect Autumn day and loved it.
6. NamdaeMun - outdoor market with everything imaginable for sale. Cheap clothes and a wide variety of camping/hiking equipment are my favorite items to shop for. Also, it's common practice to negotiate the price by saying, "sagae jusayo!" which means "discount please".
Best Places to Travel in Korea:
1. Any National Park - there are 20 Korean National Parks and each one is uniquely different. Two of my favorites are SeorakSan and JiriSan. In particular, SeorakSan reminds me very much of Colorado and the Rocky Mountains. I love it.
2. The Southern Coastal Areas of Goeje Do and Namhae - sub-tropical climate and stunning mountain vistas surrounded by blue ocean. It offers a variety of fresh seafood and has a Mediterranean or Hawaiian feel to it.
3. OeDo (pronounced "WayDo") - located off the Eastern shores of GoejeDo, it's one of the most spectacular places I have visited in Korea. Too bad they only permit you one and a half hours to visit there.
4. Jeju Island - Korea's honeymoon island and most popular tourist destination outside of Seoul. It definitely has a Hawaiian feel to it with the dormant volcano and lava tubes, etc.
5. Any Buddhist Temple - usually they're located atop mountains and face South. Each has its own special history, and many date back some 1,500 years.
6. Nami Island - also known as The Nami Republic for mostly marketing purposes, it's still a beautiful garden isle in the middle of the BukHan River.
7. Busan - mainly because my Toledo friends live here and I've always managed to have a good time, it's still a beautiful coastal city with a different vibe than Seoul.
8. The Entire Eastern Coast - steep rocky cliffs and sandy beaches that stretch from Sokcho in the North to Busan in the South. All really beautiful.
Note: I like islands, so its no wonder four of my favorite destinations are islands. Three of these four are private botanical islands that charge an entrance fee, but they're worth the price of admission. Really though, any mountain or coastal area is strongly recommended.
Favorite Korean Foods:
1. Kimchi - it's true. I once read that many foreigners experience "kimchi withdrawal" after leaving Korea, and I expect I too will suffer from this. I know, the thought of fermented cabbage may not sound appetizing, but it truly is delicious, and there are countless varieties. Every restaurant serves at least 1-2 kinds of kimchi as a free side dish, and there literally is an unlimited supply. In addition to the never-ending deliciousness, it's extremely nutritious with a full day's vitamin C content in every serving.
2. Samgyeopsal - it literally means 3 layer pork and tastes like thick cut bacon. Most restaurants serve it for you to grill at your table, accompanied by a big bowl of sliced onions, raw garlic, kimchi, and lettuce leaves for wrapping. I recommend with sesame oil and salt for dipping. Note: also try Ohyeopsal (5 layer pork) for even more porky goodness.
3. Dakgalbi - spicy chicken grilled tableside, either in a large cast iron skillet or on a grill. Served in a spicy red sauce with dok, the traditional Korean rice cake, sweet potato, and green onions. Beware, it's hot!
4. Mandoo - best when served from the back of a truck in the early hours of the morning. Seriously. The Mandoo Truck is a popular late night fixture in my town serving these tiny steamed dumplings filled with either spicy kimchi or gogi (beef).
5. Bibimbap - big bowl of rice served with numerous side dishes. These side dishes are mostly vegetables or various forms of kimchi and are mixed together with the rice and a spicy red pepper paste for a delicious and healthy meal. Sometimes bulgogi (marinated beef) is added along with an egg for protein. The vegetables also represent different colors designed to complement each other and make the presentation more appealing.
6. Naengmyeon - cold buckwheat noodles served with an icy broth and vegetables, and topped with a boiled egg. I prefer bibim naengmyeom because of the spicy red pepper that is included.
Note: There is no tipping in most Korean restaurants, which helps make it affordable. More expensive restaurants, including most Western style restaurants, sometimes charge 10% for tax and tip. In addition to this, many restaurants feature a table buzzer to alert the waitstaff when you want something. This works well, or you can always shout "yogi-yo" (here please) to draw the attention of restaurant staff.
Favorite Korean Alcohol:
1. Black Beer Stout - Most Korean beer tastes like Coors Light, so it's refreshing to sample something that does not. Per the label: "Deep & Rich Premium Beer ~ Stout offers a rich black flavor topped with sweet, smooth & creamy head" Only available at select stores, it's sold in six packs or by the liter.
2. Makgeolli - semi-sweet fermented rice wine. Sold by the half liter, there are many different manufacturers, each with their own distinct taste. My favorite is Sang Makgeolli and is best when served with pajung or Korean style pancake. Also popular after hiking or enjoyed with friends atop a mountain.
3. Soju - it's probably my least favorite alcohol, but it's hard to ignore it's abundance. Really, it's everywhere and seems to be consumed always. It is the national drink of Korea and is most commonly consumed by the shot and with a group of friends or co-workers. This can also be mixed with mak-ju (beer) for a dangerous drink known as so-mak.
Note: Imported liquor is usually expensive, especially when ordering in a bar. Imported beers, including popular American brands, are also expensive (e.g. Budweiser is 5,000 Won per bottle). Wine is becoming popular and can be purchased for reasonable prices at the grocery store, though most Koreans prefer sweet wine, so it can sometimes be difficult to find reasonably priced, "decent" wine.
Favorite Korean Music:
1. Drunken Tiger - Award-winning rap group led by a Korean/American named Tiger JK. Korean pop music, including hip-hop is extremely popular nowadays. Most of it's garbage. Tiger JK is the best. (Drunken Tiger - 8:45 music video)
2. Girls Generation - their music is total crap, but the nine members are hot. (Girls Generation - Genie)
3. Wonder Girls - five member Korean pop group, they recently have become popular in the U.S. following a 2008 MTV documentary and their 2009 tour with the Jonas Brothers. Their music is a higher caliber than Girls Generation, and they're equally as hot. (Wonder Girls - Nobody)
Favorite Korean Television:
1. Il Bak I Ill (1 Night 2 Days) - Korean variety show every Sunday at 630pm on KBS. The plot; 6 Korean entertainers travel to a new destination each week and have to survive, competing in various games and contests to win food and shelter. It's extremely funny, even for a guy who understands very little Korean.
2. Gang Ho Dong - former Korean wrestler turned entertainer and host of Il Bak I Ill. He is one of the most successful Korean MC's and is very entertaining with everything he does. Even though I understand very little he says, he manages to always make me laugh. Recently on a special episode of Il Bak I Ill, he performed a duet with popular Korean singer Baek Ji Young. The original song is titled "My Ear's Candy" and is, of course, a kind of love song. Gang Ho Dong changed the lyrics to describe his love of samgyeopsal. (Baek Ji Young feat. Gang Ho Dong - My Ear's Pig)
3. Iris - KBS television drama which premiered last winter, it's the most expensive Korean drama to date filled with explosions, car chases, and lots of action. Season 1 starred popular Korean actor Lee Byung-hun (Stormshadow ~ G.I. Joe) and the beautiful Kim Tae-hee as South Korean spies in an international web of betrayal and deceit. Yes, it was broadcast in Korean without subtitles, but I didn't care. The Season 1 finale was a shocker with a huge surprise ending. (Iris - trailer)
Favorite Korean Movies:
(Actually, they're the only Korean movies I have seen)
1. Good Morning President - this movie follows three very different Korean presidents and the various issues that plague their presidencies. It's very funny at times, and is told from the perspective of the Presidential chef, who has a unique opportunity to witness each president during their most intimate moments.
2. Take Off - based on a true story, it's a comical tale of the first Korean ski jump team and their preparations for the 1998 Winter Olympics. I actually saw this in the theater without English subtitles so I had no idea what was said throughout most of the film, but I still enjoyed it.
3. Haeundae - I watched approximately 15 minutes before I turned it off. Despite my short attention span, it was a huge blockbuster, the first Korean disaster movie with Hollywood-style special effects.
Note: Korea has a long and rich history of filmmaking, dating back to the turn of the century. Since the mid 1990's, Korean movies have reached a unbelievable level of success, following the first non-government funded movie in 1992. In 2002, the first Korean film won second place at the Venice Film Festival and another won second place at Cannes the year following. Honestly speaking, I regret not watching more Korean films during my stay here.
Favorite Korean Cars:
1. Hyundai Genesis - winner of numerous automotive awards including the prestigious 2009 North American Car of the Year, it's available as a coupe or sedan. It was specifically designed to compete with more expensive European sedans and features rear wheel drive and a near 50/50 weight distribution. The V8 model does not appear in Korea, and even without this, Hyundai has been criticized for the 53 million Won starting price tag versus $33,000 in U.S.
2. Kia K7 - recently released as Kia's all new flagship sedan, it starts at around 30 million Won and is a cheaper alternative to the Genesis, yet priced more than other front-wheel drive sedans like the Hyundai Sonata or Renault-Samsung SM5. Look for it in the U.S. sometime in late 2010 or early 2011.
3. Hyundai Sonata - code name YF, it was first introduced to Korean customers in November 2009. Since then, it has been labeled the "Camry Killer" as Hyundai prepares for serious battle with Toyota. Sleek styling, high-tech electronics, and impressive fuel economy are among its best features. Price starts at 26 million Won, three million Won more than the previous model, which is a sore spot for most Korean buyers. U.S. price tag is $19,000 and up.
4. Equus - Hyundai's exclusive luxury line with a similar relationship as Lexus to Toyota. First introduced in 1999, there is only one model, the VS with its big V8 engine, and it's currently preparing for a U.S. debut sometime in late 2010. Korean price starts at around 80 million Won. U.S. price is projected in excess of $55,000.
5. Kia Soul - unique styling and a surprisingly spacious cabin, it's one of the top selling cars in the U.S. following the Cash For Clunkers program. Mostly due to it's affordable price tag, $14,000, and Kia's legendary 10 year warranty, it also features an impressive 30 mpg.
Note: Auto manufacturing is one of Korea's top five industries, and it remains a favorite subject of study for me. What's most impressive is Hyundai/Kia's explosive overseas growth during the past decade and it's current title as World's Fourth Largest Automaker. Equally impressive; it's recent focus on both quality and design, especially to U.S. buyers who continue to speculate over American brands and are now questioning Japanese quality. Besides this, the ultra-impressive 10 year warranty offered only to U.S. customers is impossible to compete with.
On the flip side, Korea's sixth-largest company faces increasing competition from other Korean automakers such as Renault-Samsung, GM-owned Daewoo, and Ssangyong Motors. In addition, Hyundai has faced harsh criticism from many Koreans who believe the company is focusing too much on overseas product growth at the expense of it's domestic market.
Things I Wish America Could Import from Korea:
1. NoraeBang - private singing rooms each with comfortable couch and your own karaoke machine. The TV's broadcast nature video clips and it truly is a great way to spend an afternoon or an evening with friends. Don't nock it till you try it.
2. 24 Hour Alcohol - Bars remain open until 6am and it's not uncommon to see people drinking into the early hours of the morning. Of course, this can be both a blessing and a curse.
3. Speed Cameras - almost all highways feature these instead of patrol vehicle enforcement. Even better, the cameras are well marked and Korean GPS devices (sold separately) notify you before with a warning if you are over the limit.
4. Public Transit System - at least in Seoul, the subway operates regularly (every 10 minutes on average) and the same with the buses. Cost is reasonable, usually 1,000-1,500 Won for a one way trip, and the T Money Card functions like a debit card. Load it with cash and it can be used for subway travel, bus transfer, and even some taxicabs throughout the country. It's tremendous. On the negative side, the subway stops at 1am during the week and 12am on weekends.
5. Heated Toilet Seats - complete with bidet and various wash functions. It's common to see this in people's homes or in posh restrooms, and they're ultra comfy.
The Worst
Worst Things About Living in Korea:
1. Crappy Internet Reception - mostly experienced in my apartment, so to say the entire country has poor service is unfair. After all, Korea boasts about exceptionally fast connection speed and proudly claims to be the most wired country in the world. Regardless, I cannot manage to get a strong signal in my apartment to save my life. It has seriously been the most aggravating part of my time here.
2. My Apartment - I live in an eight story office building. My apartment is approximately 10'X25'. I was the only resident until about three months ago, when a young Korean couple moved into the apartment next door. Most people cannot believe my accommodations when I tell them where I live. The school once tried to tell me it is upscale for teacher accommodations. It most definitely is not.
3. Split Shifts - Teaching adults is great. I chose to do this with full knowledge of the work schedule, and honestly speaking, I would probably choose it again. The schedule, however, is brutal with 4-5 hours sleep each night, and a 2-3 hour nap every afternoon.
4. Pushing on the Subway and Elevators - I've mentioned this before, and it remains a frustrating aspect of Korean life. There is no personal zone to speak of. Be prepared to be shoved, or to shove your way through a large crowd. Don't be shy about it. Others aren't, why should you.
5. Public Restrooms - most are dirty and lack toilet paper. Some lack paper towels and soap and are extremely cold because the windows are always kept open. Others reek of stale cigarette smoke despite the fact they are clearly labeled as "Non-Smoking". Even more disgusting, it is common practice in Korea to dispose of used toilet paper in a trash can next to the toilet. Yuck!
6. Suicidal Delivery Drivers on Motorbikes - they're f***ing crazy and have no shame. Sidewalks are open roads for motorbikes and traffic laws have no significance. Watch your back and check your mirrors more than once.
7. Spitting in Public - it's disgusting but very common to see this. Even though I have been told it's considered rude amongst most Koreans, and it may even be illegal, everyone seems to do it. I've witnessed little old ladies clearing their throats and spitting on the sidewalk. People also do not seem to care where they spit. Inside buildings, restaurants, elevators, or even the subway; it's all fair game. Really, it's that bad.
Least Favorite Korean Foods:
1. Soondae - Korean version of blood sausage. It's pronounced similar to "sundae", so I was most confused the first time I was introduced to this.
2. Silkworm Larvae - I have never tried this and I never will. However, it remains a Korean favorite.
3. Dried Squid - sold in every convenience store as a snack food, it's also popular at sporting events such as Korean baseball games and soccer matches. It looks like dried squid and smells like dried squid. Yuck!
4. Dog - it's not as common as it once was in Korea, though I am told it still exists. Obviously, I have never tried this and I don't intend to. Many Koreans feel the same way.
Note: Surprisingly, many Korean foods feature the something you never expect to find in a country known for it's centuries-old culinary traditions; mayonnaise. Even more surprising is the reaction when restaurant staff learn some Americans do not actually like mayonnaise. A perfect example of a normal food with this surprise ingredient; pizza. First of all, Korean pizza features some of the most bizarre toppings like shellfish, squid, sweet potato, fruits, and many others. Top it off with a drizzle of mayonnaise and you have one messed up pizza. Serve it with a side of sweet pickles and a once loved favorite food can become extremely hated.
I despise mayonnaise, pronounced "mayo-naiz-e", and it's especially difficult to learn 1) how to properly pronounce the word, 2) how to ask for sandwiches, hot dogs, salads, and many other "western" foods without this troublesome topping, and 3) learn to manage the reaction most staff give you when special ordering. McDonald's is a fine example, as is Quizno's, Subway, and Mr. Wow Hot Dog. The worst experience I suffered; a fruit salad with what appeared to be a sweet-yogurt dressing. Nope, sure enough, it was mayonnaise.
Strange Korean Phenomena:
1. Korean Fan Death - it's true. Koreans really believe that people can die from sleeping in a room with the fan on. Despite your best efforts to argue the point, including scientific evidence against this, their strong belief remains.
2. Writing in Red Ink - this is reserved only for names of the dead.
3. Avoid the Number 4 - it sounds similar to the Chinese word for 'death', which is never a good thing.
Things I Wish Korea Could Import from America:
1. Mexican Food - it's available in Seoul, but it's rare. There are only two chain restaurants I know of; Tomatillo Grille and On The Border. What's most surprising about its absence is the similarity between Korean and Mexican foods, mostly the fresh vegetables and spicy peppers. They have no idea what they're missing.
2. Microbrews - imported beers are available in western bars, though expensive. Microbrews are noticeably absent.
3. Medium to Large Dogs - 99% of dogs in Korean are miniature and wear clothes. It's disgusting. Even worse, they are carried around like children and can be found in the arms of women in department stores and grocery stores.
4. Smoking bans and Enforcement of these policies - even though it is illegal to smoke in public buildings, it's very common to witness people defying these laws, mostly because the government does not enforce this. To say Korea is one big ashtray is an unnecessary and extreme exaggeration, but it sometimes feels this way when people smoke in elevators, public restrooms, etc.
5. Cruise Control - yes, it's true. Cruise control is illegal in Korea so nearly all Korean cars lack this feature. This makes maintaining a constant speed through the many speed cameras on the highway difficult at times, and you don't miss it till its gone.
6. Car Seats for Children - I know it's difficult to believe, but it's true. Parents hold their infant children on their laps while traveling in cars. Shocking in every regard, considering the dangers we all know exist when driving.
I'm sure there are many other things I am forgetting. I've tried to remain positive in my reporting, and mostly, it is positive. Please forgive me if I sound otherwise, but there are obvious cultural differences I simply do not understand. In turn, I'm sure many people cannot understand some of my behaviors as well.
Welcome to Korea.
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