KOREAN Road Trip

Merry Christmas!

I managed to arrange a total of 11 days vacation from my hagwon. Because Christmas and New Years Day fell on a Friday, I only had to use 4 of my 8 vacation days for this time away from school. A true blessing.

This Christmas was the first I spent away from my family and my home. It was sad, in a way, but joyous nonetheless. For weeks prior to the holiday, Gemma and I planned a road trip, Korean style, and we began our journey at approximately 11pm Wednesday night, December 23rd. Five days and 1,500 kilometers later, we returned to Sanbon at 1pm on Monday, December 28th. Here is our story.

We drove through the night Wednesday, arriving in the East coast port city of Sokcho at around 4am. Our original intention was to watch the sunrise, though our plans were spoiled at first light when we noticed the many clouds obscuring the view of the horizon. Bummer.

Thursday morning (Day 1), following a series of quick naps in the car, we traveled one hour North to the DMZ and Korean Unification Observatory. Whatever I had read about this experience could not prepare me for the scene. Remember, that technically speaking, the two countries remain at war. South Korea never signed the terms of the 1953 armistice and does not officially recognize the terms of this agreement. (National Campaign To End The Korean War) It's a scary thought, especially after viewing hundreds of active soldiers patrolling the region.

What was most surreal, for me, was the miles of beautiful shoreline; sandy beaches with rock cliffs, that was lined with a 10 foot chain link fence with razor wire. This, by the way, goes on for about 100 kilometers to the South of the DMZ. Obviously, there have been many small conflicts throughout the past fifty plus years to suggest this type of security is necessary, but it really reminds you exactly where you are and the dangers which clearly and presently remain.

Our journey truly began after we finished the DMZ Thursday afternoon, followed by another brief nap, and headed South along Korea's Highway 7, shadowing the Eastern shoreline. Highway 7 runs entire length from the North Korean border to South Korea's second largest city, Pusan, in the South. It's a beautiful stretch of coastal road, and we divided it's length into two days. Thus, Thursday night, Christmas Eve, was spent in a Holiday Inn in the coastal town of Donghae, and celebrated with crab dinner at a local seaside restaurant. Christmas gifts were exchanged in a modest, treeless fashion and two bottles of wine, which I bought in Seoul and packed for the trip, were also enjoyed. It was the most non-traditional Christmas Eve celebration, but it was all good.

Friday morning (Day 2), Christmas Day, I skype'd with family back home as we sipped coffee and enjoyed breakfast at a local bakery, before we headed off for Day 2 of our epic journey. Starting in Donghae, we leisurely drove South, stopping frequently for glances at the East Sea and beaches that captured our attention. Of particular excitement was Okgye Rest Area, an impromptu bathroom stop which required a dangerous u-turn, but it was worth it. Probably the most beautiful scenery surrounding any rest area I have ever visited.

Fierce traffic was encountered in Pohang, a large industrial city located 120 kilometers North of Pusan, and home to Posco Steel Corporation, the second largest steel manufacturer in the world. This, unfortunately, diverted our intended route to Yeongil Bay and Homigot, the tip of Korea's tail and Easternmost point on the peninsula, and forced us to complete day 2 on the highway in lieu of the more scenic coastal road.

We arrived Friday night at Toledo friend Greg's apartment in Pusan around 8pm, just in time for a Christmas toast and hors devours. A delicious dinner was prepared that night and a good time was had by all. No Christmas tree, no caroling, no egg nog; just a relaxing night with good people. Greg's girlfriend, Suji, and his roommates Brian, another Toledo native, and Rob were all gracious hosts.

Saturday (Day 3) was spent relaxing in Pusan; breakfast, lunch, an afternoon hike to Oryukdo and Iggidae, and another delicious dinner. Yum!

Early Sunday morning (Day 4), Gemma and I said goodbye to our friends in Pusan and drove North through the mountains toward Chungju Lake and Mungyeong Gate. Chungju Lake is the largest man-made reservoir in South Korea, and boasts some of the country's most beautiful scenery. (about Chungju Lake and Chungcheongbuk-do) Mungyeong Gate is of important Korean historical significance, providing a mountain pass along what was once an important trade route during the Goryeo Kingdom (918-1392 A.D.), connecting ancient Pusan and Seoul.

The only disappointment of the trip was the weather late Sunday afternoon. Not long after our arrival in Chungju Lake, the clouds rolled in and the snow began to fall. This made visibility poor, so the beauty of Chungju Lake was not fully recognized, and it made driving a bit treacherous on the mountain roads. It should also be noted that snowplows, apparently, do not exist in Korea, or at least I have never seen one.

As a result, we adjusted our plans and drove one hour to Icheon, where the weather was progressively worse, and we located an inexpensive motel, often called a "love motel" because the rooms are cheap and can be rented on an hourly or nightly basis. Adult novelties are also offered via dispensing machines in the lobby, should you wish. Not much to do in Icheon, other than galbi dinner at a local restaurant, television in the motel room, and early to bed.

Monday morning (Day 5) we awoke in the love motel, had a disappointing McDonald's breakfast (actually, there were no breakfast items on their menu), and we made the two hour journey home to Sanbon. Along the way, we discovered the many outlet malls near Silchon, where we stopped and purchased inexpensive snowboard equipment and clothing. Tremendous bargains all around.

Finally, at 1pm Monday, we rolled back in to Sanbon. Tired from the trip, but not exhausted, we both agreed it was a perfect way to spend the Christmas holiday, Korean style.

Total cost of the trip was around 500,000 Won, which included three fill-ups at approximately 80,000 Won per petrol station, two nights lodging (60,000 Won in Donghae and 40,000 Won in Icheon), Christmas Eve crab dinner, and miscellaneous other expenses. Not bad, when you consider a 4 day trip to Thailand, the Philippines, or somewhere warm would easily have cost over 1,000,000 Won per person. Besides, I have now visited nearly every major city and tourist destination on the Korean peninsula, and have actually stood on 3 of 4 geographical corners of the country. Not bad for 9 months..

Trip summary:

4.5 days, 5 nights

approximately 110 hours

3 sunny days with fair temperatures, 2 cloudy days, 1 with snow

1,500 km / 3 tanks of gas = 500 km per tank

100 k.m.h. on most highways (62 m.p.h.)

70 k.m.h. on most coastal/mountain roads (44 m.p.h.)