KOREA Week XXIX

Thursday, November 19, 2009 at 11:49pm

When I reflect back on the past seven months, I have made many friends in Korea, and I am incredibly thankful for this good fortune. My time here would not be nearly as enjoyable and comforting without their companionship. Some of these friends have originated as students, and some have been introduced through various channels of my Korean stay. Others have emerged simply as a result of being a foreigner in a foreign land. Regardless of the origin, I can proudly say the many friendships I have forged have been one of the best parts of this trip.

My very first student, who quickly became a good friend, screen golf partner, travel guide, advisor to all things Korean, etc., has recently moved to a neighboring city, located approximately 20 minutes by car or one hour via bus and subway. After sixteen years living in Sanbon, B.H. and his family have relocated to a larger and newer apartment with more modern features, which they hope will appreciate in value at a higher-rate than their somewhat stabilized home in Sanbon. While I will miss him in Sanbon, he has told me he will remain a student, at least through the end of this month.

Even though I fully expected to meet many friends, I did not expect these friendships to impact me as much as they have. My friendship with student B.H. is a perfect example this. Despite our obvious age difference (52 years vs. 32 years), we remain close, and have served each other well during a time of transition for each of us. Remember, he is an automotive engineer who spent nearly 25 years with Hyundai, and most recently, three years with Delphi Automotive before the company suspended their Korean operations earlier this year. Soon, he will begin a new job, and thus, will be unable to continue his English studies.

Even though I am incredibly pleased for his success, I do not look forward to the approaching day when he will no longer be a student. Our discussions have always been strong, even at 6:30 a.m., and our topics have covered a wide range. In so many ways, it is he who has been the teacher, and I the student.

Other news:

Two weeks ago I wrote about Korean GPS units and their impressive dual function capability as both satellite navigation and television. Recently, the Korean equivalent of the Supreme Court ruled that driving while watching television on a dashboard-mounted GPS is perfectly legal. This decision is a major relief to most taxi drivers, who regularly enjoy watching television, both while waiting for potential passengers and while driving. Crazy, eh?

Other comments regarding the Korean GPS units; in addition to the split-screen satellite TV feature, I recently learned that many also feature a red light warning system, which is mostly used by taxi drivers to speed up or slow down when approaching the intersection, or do a U-turn in the middle of the street and detour to avoid the red light. Another useful feature identifies the current fuel prices at any gas station, and, most importantly, a warning device when approaching the notorious photo radar enforcement. Navigation, it would seem, is only a small and insignificant feature when compared with the other capabilities of each device.

The weather continues to change significantly, and recent temperatures have dropped to around a 30 degree average with lows hovering in the mid 20's at night. It's ridiculously cold for this time of year, and it's not even December yet. Damn! But, I'm pleased to finally have my winter jacket to keep me warm.

To ease with the cold temperatures, Koreans have a unique in-floor heating system called Ondol. The design is nothing remarkable, except that, according to some reports, it's been in Korea for around 1,000 years. This system is essentially copper tubing filled with hot water and located beneath the wooden floors, but it's sure to help keep any room warm and your ass comfortable. It's common in most homes and some restaurants, especially those with floor seating. Remember, most Koreans eat while sitting on the floor and many continue to sleep on the floor at night, instead of using a bed. Personally speaking, I have slept on the floor maybe 3 or 4 times, and I'm pleased to report the Ondol system works incredibly well.

Unfortunately, both my apartment and hagwon are without Ondol, and thus, the temperatures often fluctuate. While lately, I have been trying to keep my apartment at a toasty 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 Fahrenheit), I sometimes wear a winter hat in class to keep warm, and often lounge about in my queen-size fleece blanket (20,000 Won - CostCo) while "chilling" at home.

In addition to the Ondol, many Korean foods help keep your insides warm. Popular winter foods in Korea are just about anything spicy, or served in the typical Korean style of scalding one's mouth when eating. Actually, there are many delicious soups and stews (jjigae), to accompany the many wonderful dishes which are cooked table-side, to remain warm. So if a restaurant is without Ondol, just locate a table with it's own grill and exhaust system. It's easy to find. This, and one or two bottles of soju will usually aide in the warming process.

That's the news. Stay warm.

KOREA Week XVII

Late October/ early November happenings:

New classes and students to commence month seven in The Orient. Low enrollment meant that one of my classes was cancelled, so I have extra free time this month and can actually eat dinner before 10pm on Mondays and Wednesdays. Yeah!

Mostly, classes are well and I have begun to implement new materials and reformat the class structure this month. My relationship with the students continues to be the highlight of my job, and it is always pleasurable to speak with them, both inside and outside the classroom.

It was recently brought to my attention that I may have a new neighbor staying in the room immediately adjacent to mine. While this may seem like a pleasant surprise and some much needed company, I enjoyed my solitude and I dislike having to be aware of my music levels, especially late at night. Besides, the walls are paper thin and already I have heard more from my new neighbor than I care to. So this could get interesting.

My one-burner electric range has bit the dust. Apparently, the UniMax 1550 HDC model is no match for Ethan's overzealous cooking habits. It's okay, actually, as I much prefer the Kovea KR-0906 model portable gas stove I originally purchased for camping, but have since adopted as a permanent feature in my kitchen. I will, most likely, have to purchase a second cooking apparatus, as one stove is simply not enough when you cook lots, and more importantly, cook well.

While I once thought cooking in my apartment would be an affordable alternative to frequently dining out, I, sadly, was mistaken. Gourmet tastes, and the premium prices which accompany the Western ingredients I often use, make this difficult to achieve. I suppose it's okay, though, as I have made some incredible dishes in recent weeks. Another trip to Costco (90,000 Won) and a fully-stocked pantry help make this possible.

This week's highlight, by far, was the Sunday trip to Bundang and breakfast at Butterfinger Pancakes. Bundang is located roughly one hour Southeast of Seoul via its own subway line, and is one of the most affluent regions of Seoul. Distance from Sanbon is approximately thirty minutes by car. Its a beautiful area with many modern apartment complexes, and a riverfront park which surrounds the Tancheon River. There are many upscale restaurants and coffee houses located here, including Butterfinger Pancakes, which is, without a doubt, the most Western-style breakfast restaurant I have seen in Korea. Two of us ordered bacon and eggs, french toast, a tall stack of pancakes, and a side dish of macaroni and cheese. They even had real maple syrup to float the french toast and pancakes in! A generous portion of each and all delicious, though, cost was somewhat expensive at 35,000 Won. It was, however, well worth it and I plan to return again soon.

Automotive news:

Hyundai Motor Company and it's junior, Kia Motors Corp., continue to impress me, on many levels. First of all, many students work for, or are in some way involved with them, so it's easy to discuss in class and learn about them. Also, Hyundai and Kia both dominate the passenger car and truck market in Korea, so they are a sort of national pride. What is most impressive, however, is the fact that Hyundai and Kia's market share in the U.S. grew 49% and 45% respectively over the past year. This is, in fact, despite, a global recession, and at a time when other manufacturers, including popular Japanese rivals, continue to battle declining sales. It's actually, astounding.

Amidst this success, Hyundai's quality continues to improve, and many believe, the company is truly building a world-class product. As an example, take a look at the recently unveiled fifth-generation Hyundai Sonata. It's sleek, stylish, and vastly improved over previous models. All this, and, it will be priced less than competitive Toyota and Honda models; namely the Camry and Accord. Other notable mentions include the recently redesigned Hyundai Tucson, the Kia Forte, Kia Soul, and my personal favorite, the Hyundai Genesis; 2009 North American Car of the Year. As if this weren't enough, the Equus line, Hyundai's premier luxury line, goes on sale in North America sometime in late 2010. Remember when Lexus first debuted in 1989 and exactly how Toyota's U.S. market percentage has grown since then? Think similar thoughts.

Toyota, bizarrely, was recently introduced to the Korean marketplace in mid-October. Since then, I have seen many television commercials advertising their three vehicle lineup they are selling, and I have seen many new Camrys, Prius's, and RAV4's hit the streets. It's actually like a status symbol to drive a foreign automobile, even a Toyota, against a product offered by the more traditional Hyundai, Kia, GM Daewoo, Renault-Samsung, or Ssangyong Motors.

Other technology:

The Apple iPhone is set to launch soon in South Korea, though, there is much controversy surrounding the application fees and monthly service fees offered between Apple and the local carriers, namely SK and Korea Telecom (KT). Hopefully, this matter will resolve itself soon, for the introduction of the Google-based Droid is fast approaching, and sadly, it offers more gaming opportunities; something, which, most young Koreans will consider important.

Korean GPS units, found in almost every automobile, feature many functions and are truly, state of the art. What is most unique, however, is the television feature and split-screen function. That's right, satellite television in the front seat of the car while navigating the busy streets of Seoul and Korean highways. As if most Korean drivers weren't bad enough without this distraction..

Stayed tuned.