Showing posts with label paek p'al bae. Show all posts
Showing posts with label paek p'al bae. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

KOREA Week XXV

Tuesday, October 20, 2009 at 6:59pm

Following last week's trip to Costco, I have made several fantastic meals in my apartment. Some of the more memorable dishes include delicious bulgogi sandwiches served on toasted bagel using onion and sharp cheddar cheese, in addition to various omelets stuffed with cheddar cheese, diced onion, garlic, and peppers. This week, I am planning a bowtie pasta dish served with pesto sauce, pine nuts, and feta cheese. Yum! In addition to these fine culinary demonstrations, pumpkin pie, courtesy of Costco, was featured multiple nights for dessert. It should be noted, however, that a can of Redi-Whip can cost almost 12,000 Won at E-Mart, so the cheaper alternative is to purchase a small container of freshly whipped cream from the local Paris Baguette for a mere 1,500 Won.

Some of these culinary experimentation's have carried over to my classes, and I have brought leftovers in as a kind of offering to some students and an introduction to/discussion of western foods. I would also like to make chili, in honor of the fall temperatures, and I am even considering using the delicious E-Mart bulgogi I reference so much, in place of the more traditional ground beef. Peppers, onions, garlic are plentiful and can be found almost anywhere. Kidney beans and tomato paste are available at E-Mart, though they are maybe a little more expensive than in the U.S. Regardless, many people are anxious to try the chili, as this is something that most have never seen nor heard of.

On Tuesday, I was treated to a traditional Korean tea ceremony at a quaint lakeside tea house with students from my 9am class. The scenery was beautiful and the plum-flavored tea was delicious, though expensive. It actually is an art studio that also features traditional Korean style teas and desserts. The location was Daeyami, a tiny neighboring community to Sanbon, located approximately two subway stations away and on the other side of Suri Mountain. Afterwards, the students and I shared lunch at a famous duck restaurant, also located in Daeyami. The duck, which was absolutely delicious, was served smoked and sliced into thin strips, to make table-side grilling easier. Perhaps this is one of the best meals I have eaten in Korea. Cost, however, was slightly expensive at 36,000 Won for the full duck, which worked out to be 12,000 Won per person, but worth the expense and generous portion.

I actually enjoyed the duck restaurant so much, I returned there Saturday night with my friend Gemma to share this experience with her. It was her first time visiting the restaurant, and together we learned that two people cannot finish an entire duck. Tough lesson, but that's okay, because it makes for great leftovers. In fact, my plan this week is to make a fettuccine dish in a light cream sauce with mushrooms and onions, and, of course, the leftover duck.

On Sunday, Gemma and I visited SeonyuDo, a magnificent garden island located in the Han River and in the middle of Seoul. It was a beautiful fall afternoon, with sunny skies, a light breeze and temperatures in the low 70's. SeonyuDo is actually the former site of a water treatment plant, Korea's first recycled ecological park, converted in 2001, and connected to the mainland via a narrow pedestrian bridge. Included on the island are many botanical gardens, a birch tree forest, water museum, and numerous foot paths. Admission is free and the views of the Han River, along with 360 degree views of Seoul, are priceless. It's truly one of the best places I have visited in Seoul, and I would suggest spending at least a few hours exploring the numerous gardens and enjoying the views. When finished, I would also suggest a stroll along one of the many riverside paths to fully appreciate the wonder of this destination and the Han River.

Following our SeonyuDo experience, Gemma and I traveled to Shinchon Station (downtown Seoul) for Mexican dinner at On The Border, an American chain with three locations in the metro area. I have read many reviews suggesting this is, perhaps, the best Mexican food in Seoul, and as disappointing as it may be to award this title to yet another chain restaurant, I'm afraid it may be true. The margaritas weren't bad (it was Gemma's first margarita), the burrito combination dinner we shared was decent, and this was my first experience with guacamole in Korea. Avocados are a food item I miss terribly, and when available at a speciality grocery store, or even Costco, they are incredibly expensive; maybe 15,000 Won for 6. Because of this, paying 6,000 Won for a side dish of guacamole is by all means reasonable.

What was most special about On The Border was introducing my good friend to the new foods and frozen alcoholic beverages. She especially enjoyed the guacamole, or "guatemala" as she later called it. Dinner for two cost 45,000 Won, which included a 10% service charge, and is expensive for Korean dining. I suppose it's comparable to the U.S. and not bad for two people sharing one large entree, side order of guacamole, two margaritas, and a beer, but still far more expensive than most Korean meals I have enjoyed, even with alcohol service. The best part of the meal, however, was when leaving, many of the staff told us, "adios kamsahamnida" or adios thank you!

Other recent happenings:

Sleep continues to be a struggle for me and for many reasons. Mostly, this is due to the notorious split shifts associated with teaching Adults at a hagwon, though an active social life can also interfere with this. Every day I awake at 530am, my classes begin at 630am and continue until to roughly noon, followed by evening classes; usually 6pm to 10pm. As a result, I usually average 3-4 hours sleep at night, and, if I'm lucky, a 2-3 hour nap during the afternoon. This, obviously, is not a healthy balance. Tuesday night, for example, I awoke at 330am and actually showered before I realized the time and my error. Sleep deprivation will do that to you, I guess.

I revisited a Korean fortune teller with my good friend B.H. While this was mostly for entertainment purposes, I will admit I do enjoy the abstract guidance, as well. I was told many things over the course of an hour, all of which were translated through B.H., and cost a mere 20,000 Won. The most noteworthy piece of information I was provided, suggested life continues to look good for me and I should continue my international travels, though I should pay special attention to my health over the next three months and use caution when traveling this year. In addition, I was told when I die, on my deathbed, I will receive total consciousness. So I got that going for me, which is nice.

I have now completed the paek p'al bae, or 108 bows before the Buddha, a total of three times at SuriSan Mountain Temple (SuriSa). The walk to temple from Sanbon takes roughly one hour, and in addition to the pleasant afternoon hike, I can honestly say I feel mentally refreshed immediately following the experience. I remain impressed with what little I know of the Buddhist teachings and I truly hope to further my Buddhist "education" and experience the Buddhist Temple Stay sometime soon.

To continue with this health theme, I attended a Thursday yoga class with one of my students. The class was filled with all women, maybe ages 25-60, and I, of course, was the only foreigner. But, seeing as I did not do anything too awkward, I was invited back. The women seemed to enjoy my presence in the class, and, I must admit, were somewhat impressed with my flexibility.

The weather has become increasingly fall-like, with temperatures ranging between upper 40's at night and low 70's during most days. Leaves on the trees continue to turn colors and fall. It's a beautiful time of year, though one can sense the cold winter on it's way. I am, of course, not looking forward to this, even though snowboard season is not far away.

Adios Kamsahamnida!

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

KOREA Week XIII Review

Tuesday, July 28, 2009 at 11:39am

I turned 32 years of age last week. Sadly, I am beginning to feel every bit my age, and in addition to the numerous gray hairs I have, my habits, both good and bad, are becoming more profound.

That morning, students in my 9am class surprised me with a cake and candles, walking in the classroom singing happy birthday just before I ended a skype call with friends Wayne and Melissa back home. I was truly surprised by this, and both conversation with Wayne and Melissa, in addition to the students celebration, set the mood for a near perfect day. Afterwards, I was treated to Korean noodle lunch with B.H., his daughter, and her boyfriend. Apparently, it is Korean tradition to eat noodles on your birthday because it symbolizes long life, so I was sure to eat as many noodles as possible this day. Besides, eating noodles is fun fun!

Later in the day I joined Korean friend Gemma for mountain hike to SuriSa (Buddhist temple located on the backside of Suri Mountain), where I performed the paek p'al bae or 108 bows before a statue of the Buddha. Perhaps I was feeling somewhat spiritual on my birthday, or longing for some type of enlightenment, but either way you view it, it was a memorable experience. Since this was my first proper visit to temple, Gemma's mother, who is Buddhist, joined us as a type of guide. The 108 bows was a slightly strenuous task; inducing much sweat, sore knees, and a mildly sore back, but it is designed to eliminate all other distractions as you focus on counting to 108 and reach a sense of calmness. This should come as no surprise, and I will not mislead you; it's a bit of a challenge. I believe I lost count somewhere around 50, so the demonstration lasted over an hour, and I may have actually bowed 150-200 times. As a reward for my overzealous efforts, Gemma and her mother treated me to Kongguksu, another delicious Korean noodle dish.

While it may not sound like fun, the temple experience was a truly enlightening experience for me. As one of my many objectives while in Korea is to learn more about Buddhism; Tuesday's visit to temple was a great start. Since then, I have told many Koreans about my 108 bows, and everyone remains impressed. This, apparently, is not a common thing for foreigners to do in Korea. Next time, I hope to focus better so I can hit the 108 count with less effort and greater concentration. Hopefully the experience will also be more calming without the sweat and associated old man pains.

Other activities this day included a coveted two hour nap (the best) and a trip to a Korean fortune teller. For only 15,000 Won I was told many things I already knew about myself; i.e. I am insatiable, I am often too sensitive, I am stubborn, I enjoy traveling and learning about new people, and I have many close family and friends. He also told me I should continue my educational pursuits. Good advice. What was most curious, however, he said I will apparently find romance and encounter money after age 35, and my fortune suggests I am not good at flattery. Because of this last part, the fortune teller suggested I am not good at sales or business jobs, and instead, should focus my efforts on an honest trade such as teaching. Interesting.

Surprisingly, Koreans do not wish you, "happy birthday", but instead offer you, "congratulations". It was confusing at first, and I was unsure if they knew something I did not; perhaps I had won some type of prize or I should simply be thankful for living another year. Either way, turning 32 is nothing to be congratulated on, but it was nice that so many people made the effort to wish me well. I was also given several gifts this day; a necktie from student friend B.H., a tight fitting polo shirt (Korean size XL) from my school, Starbucks travel coffee mug set from students, and numerous pieces of candy and desserts. All were very generous and completely unnecessary.

The remainder of the week was relaxed. I believe my spirits remained high from last weekend's holiday in Seorak National Park, and it was a most needed break. Since the fortune teller told me travel eases my mind and is good for my well being, I cannot wait until my next three day weekend (August 14-16) so I can recharge my batteries again.

Other highlights this past week include: Friday late night hike to Surisan with American friend Dave. Bound for the top of SuriSan, we left Sanbon at midnight, and in a light rain. It took us over an hour to reach the summit in the dark (normally 40-50 minutes), where we admired the view, shared a bottle of makgeolli, and discussed life in Korea. The time here was short, unfortunately, because at around 1:45am the views of the three local cities below us disappeared in a cloud front and the light rain turned into a heavy downpour. This wreaked havoc on our makgeolli enjoyment and made the descent more complicated, as we were most cautious not to slip and fall on the rocks and end up in the hospital. Total time spent on the mountain was 3.5 hours, of which, almost 2 hours was spent climbing down in the heavy rain. After telling this story to my students Monday morning, I have since been informed that many Koreans strongly believe the mountains are haunted by spirits during the nighttime hours, and many refuse to visit there in the dark. We Americans, of course, know no fear and are not intimidated by these superstitious tales of the supernatural. Besides, can Korean ghosts be seen by foreigners and, if so, do they speak English?

After teaching Saturday morning class, I met students Serena and Michelle for an afternoon trip to Seoul and visit to Changdeokgung Palace. The original palace was built in 1412 and it sits on 110 acres directly in the center of Seoul. It served as the home to many Korean kings, and was destroyed and rebuilt several times by the many foreign nations who invaded Korea for centuries. The buildings were all very traditional looking, made of wooden construction with colorful decorative paneling and latticework. What was most interesting to me, however, was the landscaping, especially in the beautiful garden areas of the palace. It is also interesting, when you consider this huge 110 acre estate remains to this day in it's restored condition, in the center of Seoul with only a stone fence separating it from the modern day high rise apartment and office building neighbors.

Later in the day, Serena, Michelle, and I visited Insadong (traditional Korean neighborhood in Seoul) for Samgyetang dinner and shopping prior to our return trip to Sanbon, where we joined with some of my American friends for beers and another fine NoraeBang experience late Saturday night. NoraeBang: always a good time.

This past weekend, many close friends back home gathered on a remote island in Northern Wisconsin for one of my best friend's wedding celebration. I, of course, was unable to attend and participate in the festivities, which is, perhaps, the saddest part about living overseas. Since it is such a rare opportunity when old friends can gather, I would have done almost anything to fly home and celebrate with them. Unfortunately, this is not feasible, so instead I wish Drew and Melisa the very best, and I look forward to seeing you both sometime next year.

Lots of Love,
Ethan