KOREA Week XXX

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Haenam Peninsula

The past weekend was another three day weekend, so once again, I took advantage of the situation and visited more of the Korean countryside. This time, my travels took me to the Southeastern-most tip of the Korean peninsula, Haenam, located in the scenic South Jeolla Province. Following this trip, I can proudly say I have visited three of four corners of the South Korean peninsula, something which, many of my Korean students have yet to do.

Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province) is a mostly agricultural area that produces rice, cabbage, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, and a variety of seafood. The seaside location can be a popular tourist destination in the summer months, though it was rather deserted in late November. I read there are an estimated 2,000 islands along the coastline as it is surrounded by the Yellow Sea and the Cheju Strait or South Sea. What is even more impressive; I have read that only 500 or so of these islands are inhabited.

The 7am bus ride from Anyang to Mokpo lasted four hours and cost 22,000 Won. A separate bus (5,000 Won) takes another two hours and runs from Mokpo to the tiny fishing village of Ttangkkeut, which literally means "land's end" or "edge of the land." There are many accommodations to choose from in Ttangkkeut, though a 40,000 Won hotel room with internet and satellite tv was selected for Friday night's stay. Perhaps Ttangkkeut is most famous for the 40 meter high observation tower that provides fantastic 360 degree views of the coastline and the peninsula. Tram service is available for those unable or unwilling to climb the stairs to the top. There is also a monument marking it's southernmost location and a platform shaped like the bow of a ship. All in all, it's a beautiful place to watch to relax, watch the sunset and enjoy the fresh sea air.

Both Saturday and Sunday were spent in the Daeheung Mountain area, visiting Daeheung Temple, and other scenic locations. The bus ride to Daeheung lasted roughly one hour from Ttangkkeut, and Saturday night was spent in another fine Korean hotel complete with internet and satellite tv. Believe it or not, but this is actually a rare treat when traveling in the countryside. Dinner both days included a seafood noodle dish, makgeolli (Korean rice wine), and pajun (Korean pancake with vegetables and squid). Most delicious.

The Daeheung Temple is another fine example of Korea's rich history and tradition involving Buddhism. Actually, it's one of the oldest temples in Korea. Apparently, it's original construction date is unconfirmed, though many believe it dates back to the Silla Kingdom (550 A.D.). There are many mountains surrounding the temple grounds, including Mt. Dury, which tops out at 700 meters.

There is a cable car to the top of Mt. Dury, which, unfortunately, we ran out of time to do. Looking back, this is probably the biggest regret of the weekend, as I have since read the views from the top are awesome. In retrospect, the six hour bus ride can seriously crimp one's style and add an unwelcome scheduling conflict to any weekend. This, and the traditional Sunday night traffic adds another two hours to the trip, which is a major argument in support of traveling via car and adhering to your own schedule.

I can honestly say that the Southern tip of Ttangkkeut is one of my favorite destinations in Korea. It's also one of the most photographed sites in Korea, which is how I originally learned of its existence.

Peace, love, and happiness.