KOREA Week XII Review

Mon, July 20, 2009 at 11:49pm

I just returned from four days camping in Seoraksan National Park, Korea's most popular national park, and according to many, perhaps the most beautiful place in Korea. It is located in scenic Gangwon Province, on the Eastern Sea only 50-60 kilometers from the North Korean border, and it encompasses some 400 square kilometers. It is also home to the third tallest peak (1,708 meters) in the Korean mountain chain. The scenery in the park reminded me of the Western U.S., perhaps Yosemite or Rocky Mountain National Park, and the coastal area (SokCho) was reminiscent of Hawaii. Looking back, it was a fantastic weekend spent alone and as kind of early birthday treat to myself. Teacher friend from Sanbon, Dave, described it as the perfect opportunity to locate the Buddha within myself. Perhaps he was right. Perhaps he was overzealous. Either way, it was a much needed break from work and the daily doldrums.

Similar to my KoRail experience last weekend, transportation via KoBus (Korean bus system) was without incident, though it was more than double the cost of rail transportation. Leaving Gwangju Bus Terminal in Seoul at 11am Thursday, the trip to SokCho took approximately four hours, including a 15 minute stop at a rest station along the highway. Cost was 23,500 Won each way to/from Seoul to SokCho, but the bus ride was smooth and the seats were comfortable. There are large, over-stuffed leather armchairs; similar to first class seating on a jet airliner, that recline very far, have leg bolsters, and a footrest with lots of legroom. The seats are also very wide, as each row has only three seats. It's so comfortable that sleep is hard to avoid after just a few minutes into the trip. There is a large TV in the front of the bus with satellite reception, and headphone jacks to listen to the Korean television broadcast throughout the trip, though I much preferred my book and watching the countryside pass by.

Arriving at 3pm in SokCho, I quickly scoped out the beach area and contemplated staying longer, before locating the number 7 bus and departing for SeorakDong Campground. Bus ride to the campground was only 20 minutes and 1,000 Won. Fortunately, prior to the trip student Christine researched every facet of my travels, including bus transportation and campground information, and she prepared an itinerary so there was no confusion as to where I was going or how to get there. Without this, I am certain the travel, and the weekend, would be chaotic and I probably would have found myself somewhere far from my destination, perhaps in North Korea.

At the campground, I selected a campsite under a shade tree and within close proximity to the facilities and other campers. Cost was only 2,000 Won per night and the facilities were excellent. I read in many travel guides, and the students confirmed this information, that Koreans will go out of their way to offer food and invite lone campers to join them for dinner, so I took this into consideration when selecting my campsite. I also used this information when packing my food for the weekend, making sure to pack extra as a sort of offering for any potentially friendly neighbors. Happily, it proved to be true. I made many friends at the campground, and we shared many fine meals and makgeolli together. It was perfect. I took a small collapsible cooler with three days worth of bulgogi (seasoned & marinated beef), individual packets of kimchi, and peanut butter sandwiches. Dry foods included the ever-popular ramen, pasta-roni, canned tuna, granola, oatmeal, and twix bars. There was also a camp store/grocery store at the campground complete with ice, beer, soju, makgeolli, frozen meats, camp supplies, etc., so whatever was not packed could be purchased on site. The bulgogi, I would like to add, was among the tastiest camp food I have ever eaten, and made for a great first impression when offering to neighbors.

Sadly, the weekend was not complete without rain. (It is, of course, Monsoon season in Korea) Fortunately, the rain was only a light rain at most times, and never posed a serious threat to my enjoyment. Both Thursday and Sunday were beautiful sunny days, which was perfect for traveling to/from Seoul and setting up/taking down camp. I awoke at 9am Friday morning, after late night makgeolli with camping neighbors, had oatmeal breakfast, and prepared for the days hiking in the park. Bus ride from the campground to the park entrance was 1,000 Won, admission to the park was only 2,000 Won, and I spent a total of 8 hours there (11am-7pm). First activity was 1.2 km cable car ride to the top of Gwongeumseong, and a climb to the peak of the rock formation at the top, thus providing excellent views of the park and it's surrounding countryside. Cost of cable car ride was a hefty 8,000 Won, but worth it. After a short while here and around 1pm, the skies let go, so I was forced to retreat to lower ground and protection from the driving rain. Here, I hiked the 5 km round trip to Biryong Waterfall, and later had relaxing Bibimbap lunch at the Seorak Hotel, located inside the park.

Best part of the day, however, was late afternoon hike to the top of Ulsan Bawi Rock (879 meters). I was told this is one of the most frequently photographed sites in Seoraksan, and is a most challenging hike. The trail, at over 7 km round trip, passes by two Buddhist temples and follows a mountain stream up the mountainside. Chanting monk music can be heard throughout the hike, which I found relaxing, especially as preparation before the final 1 km where the trail becomes a nearly impossible passageway to the summit. There is a steep, rickety, metal stairway leading between two large canyon walls. In parts, the stairway turns into a metal handrail framing numerous boulders that function as type of natural stairs. Beware; this was not easy, even for a moderately athletic 32 year old. This is why I was most surprised, and humored, when I encountered a group of 100 Korean women descending down the stairs in a single file line. No joke, they were calm as can be, giggling to themselves and smiling as they passed by, also allowing me time to stretch and relax before continuing up the mountain. After the passing Korean women, and when I finally arrived at the top to catch my breath, it was all worth it. The view was incredible, and I was overwhelmed by a feeling of personal contentment. Here I met new friends, three Korean college kids, who invited me to join them for makgeolli and pajeon, a kind of traditional Korean pancake, once we left the mountain top. This made the descent more fun as we stopped at the restaurant half-way down the mountain to refresh ourselves, share a laugh at the older Korean women, and relax a bit.

Saturday was a day of rest. I had wanted to hike to DaecheongBong (tallest peak in Seoraksan Park), but the round trip is 8-10 hours and I was not up for this journey in the rain. Instead, I awoke at 9am, and spent the day reading and napping. It was great. Saturday night, I made friends with more neighbors and shared samgyeopsal/bulgogi dinner with them. We drank so-mak (beer + soju) and they told me all about their weekend hiking club and their travels. They also invited me back for breakfast the following morning before we each packed our tents and headed our separate directions. Sunday afternoon, I had seafood lunch on the boardwalk in SokCho and I took the 1pm bus, arriving at 5pm in Seoul, and 6pm in Sanbon. Once again, effortless transportation without incident.

Lessons learned this weekend:

1) Everything is more expensive in tourist destinations, regardless of the country you are in. While this was very true in SokCho, it surprisingly, was not expensive at the campground.

2) The ability to negotiate prices on last minute camping gear in Namdaemun is not as strong when you are carrying a large backpack and it is obvious you are headed to the mountain.

3) Take a good book for rainy days. For my trip, I selected The Wind In The Willows from the library, a classic read for a weekend in the bush.

4) It's easy to make new friends when you're the only foreign guy around. Take extra food if you want to make this easier. Marinated bulgogi from E-Mart is a fantastic choice. Individual packets of kimchi at only 800 Won per piece is also great camping food.

5) Concerned students will text and telephone often when they do not trust your ability to follow the travel instructions. The concerned students will text and call even more often when it rains, frequently asking, "are you alive?" While it's nice to be loved, I answered many calls/texts over the four day trip from B.H., Christine, and other students.

After reporting of my weekend to the worrisome students on Monday, many have commented that Seoraksan is best enjoyed in the fall when the leaves are turning colors. So, I have vowed to return again in October, and perhaps, conquer that DaecheongBong. The students have promised to help guide me, and some have offered to travel with me. Until then, I remain a fan of Seoraksan. It was, perhaps, my best weekend yet in Korea..