The End of a Journey

Monday, May 3, 2010

Approximately 53 weeks after I arrived in Korea, I departed.

The week before leaving, I mailed two very large boxes filled with souvenirs and miscellaneous camping gear; each weighing 24 kilograms and costing roughly 200,000 Won. It was expensive, but necessary. Both of these boxes, buy the way, arrived in the U.S. only 3-4 days following the day I mailed them. This is almost twice the cost and nearly four times the travel time of the three packages I mailed back home prior to Christmas. Amazing.

I am leaving with the same amount of luggage I arrived with; three giant suitcases and a large backpack, though the bags feel much heavier this time as they are filled with countless memories to last a lifetime. I am also leaving with a beautiful Korean girlfriend, and together we will start a new journey in the United States.

Total travel time was around 20 hours as follows:

We left Incheon International Airport at 8am, following a free night's stay at the Best Western Premier Songdo Park Hotel and twenty minute taxi ride to the airport. Actually, both the 5:20 and 5:40 early morning shuttle buses from the hotel to the airport failed to show so we were forced to take a 35,000 Won taxi. Not cool.

Our first flight lasted two hours, followed by a two hour layover in Tokyo. The airport was nice, and I wish we had slightly longer to spend here. Unfortunately, this would require us to exchange some Korean Won or U.S. Dollars into Japanese Yen, which neither of us wanted to do for such a short period of time.

The flight from Japan to Chicago was 12 hours, and immediately after arriving at Chicago O'Hare Airport we were marched before the fine folks at U.S. Homeland Security. This proved no problem for me, but was slightly more complex for my traveling partner, Gemma, who was asked a series of personal questions regarding our relationship and her intentions in the U.S.

The Chicago layover lasted three hours, which was mostly spent wandering around the airport terminal and hot dog consumption at Gold Coast Dogs. A fine welcoming home.

The final leg of our trip was the 40 minute flight from Chicago to Detroit. Fortunately, the skies were without clouds so Gemma and I could look out the window and comment on how flat the midwestern United States is. "Where are the mountains?", we both exclaimed.

Our 3pm arrival in Detroit meant we had been awake for approximately twenty-four hours (since 4am Korea time), and we were only slightly exhausted. I suppose the excitement fueled our otherwise drained bodies, and a quick meet and greet at the airport was followed by an early dinner in Ann Arbor and back home in Toledo by 7pm.

And so concludes my KOREAN Adventure. Stay tuned for the forthcoming U.S. Adventure starting May 2010. Thank you for your interest in this blog.

KOREA Week XXXXXIII

April 30, 2010

It's official. Twelve months in Korea. Wow!

I arrived on April 27, 2009. I've lived through four distinct seasons here and I feel as if my time should soon expire. Honestly speaking, I'm slightly bored. The excitement has started to fade and I feel it's time to go home.

Looking back, its amazing how fast a year can pass. Each day, Monday through Friday, I've awoken at 5:30a.m. Thats 240 days of teaching plus 24 Saturday classes. Luckily, I've been blessed with many three and four day weekends, usually an average of one a month. This has provided me ample opportunity to rest myself and to travel. In addition to this, I managed to extend four days of vacation time over the week of Christmas and New Years into a much needed 11 day vacation.

I've taught over 200 students during my tenure, and in many cases, they taught me. My students have included housewives, doctors, lawyers, engineers, scientists, college students, high school students, and even a few school children. Truly, they have been the best part of my existence in Korea.

While I have been a student of everything Korean, I've learned some of the language, though not enough to be considered fluent. I do take great pride, however, in what little vocabulary I have learned, or the pronunciation of these few words I seem to have mastered, and it's always a pleasure when someone compliments me on my use of the language.

In the past year, I've witnessed many events in this country, both good and bad. On the low side, I've seen firsthand the country mourn the death of two beloved presidents, and I've recently seen the country struggle with the loss of 46 sailors aboard the Navy vessel which sunk under mysterious circumstances in the West Sea. This latest incident may soon prove to be the second naval skirmish in disputed waters with North Korea within the past twelve months, and will likely become a major roadblock to any form of reunification talks.

On the bright side, I've seen the country celebrate one of its proudest moments following the Gold medal victory of Kim Yuna at the 2010 Winter Olympics, and an overall fifth place finish with seven medals. Additionally, I've watched 37 year-old South Korean golfer Yang Yong-eun celebrate a triumphant win as the first Asian to win a major event at a PGA Championship.

I've also witnessed a sort of smart-phone revolution following the long-awaited release of the iPhone last November, and I've watched many other companies struggle to release products to compete. The entire revolution occurred almost entirely within six months and it has been intriguing to watch this unfold.

One of my proudest achievements; I've traveled extensively throughout South Korea, seeing almost everything there is to see in a country roughly the size of the state of Indiana. Seriously, I have been many, many places and have learned a lot about the country.

I've documented these travels as best I could, and I have published over 60 blog entries detailing my experiences and attempting to describe Korean culture. This blog, by the way, was named as one of the Top 100 blogs by the Korea Tourism Organization. In addition to this, I've posted over 800 photographs onFlickr capturing my travels and random images of Korean life.

Skype has really and truly been the most wonderful way to stay in touch with friends and family back home, and I'm incredibly thankful for the many individuals who have "skyped" with me on a regular basis. You have no idea how much it meant to feel just a little closer to home.

Of course, I've made some money, and I've spent some money too. Without a doubt, food was my biggest expenditure, followed by frequent travels and souvenir purchases for my peeps. I suppose I could have been more diligent with saving money, but then I probably would not have all the fantastic experiences. So, other than the 70,000 Won late-night massage and the 80,000 which mysteriously went missing at the Jeju Island Casino, I have very few regrets.

Best of all, I've made some amazing friends and have experiences that will remain with me for a lifetime. Because of this, I feel I owe many people a very heartfelt 'thank you' for hosting me over the past year and welcoming me into your country and into your lives.

So, until next time. Hasta la vista, Korea! Annyonghi Kaseyo! See you again someday...

Best & Worst List

Many people have asked what my favorite and least favorite things are in Korea. Here is the list.

The Best

Favorite Things About Living in Korea:

1. Meeting New Friends - students especially, I have enjoyed almost everyone I met and I will miss them when I depart.

2. The Food - Its nutritious, its delicious, it wreaks of garlic and red pepper, and I love it. As if this weren't enough, its reasonably cheap. Nuff said.

3. Traveling the countryside. I have been almost everywhere in this country and it never gets old. I love the fact that the country is 70% mountains, the many National Parks are great, the rivers, and the oceans. It's all good.

4. Learning Korean culture. It's one of the oldest continuous civilizations in the world with over 5,000 years of rich history. Fascinating in so many regards.

5. Beautiful Korean Women - they're everywhere, difficult not to notice, and I love them.

Bets Places to Travel in Seoul:

1. Cheonggye Stream - some may describe it as the heart of Seoul; it features a 11.5 km. riverwalk that is great for jogging or perfect for a stroll.

2. NamSan and Seoul Tower - this mountain is one of four distinct mountains surrounding Seoul. Actually, it's the only mountain completely in Seoul, while the others surround the city. Seoul Tower provides great views of the city and is a favorite amongst tourists.

3. Insadong - popular tourist destination with traditional Korean stores and souvenir shops. Despite the popularity and large weekend crowds, it's a good opportunity to view Korean art and culture in a condensed package. A good recommendation for any Seoul visitor.

4. National Museum of Korea - one of the largest museum in the world, I was originally told it takes a minimum nine hours to see everything. It's a great museum, I've been there three or four times and I still have yet to finish the third floor.

5. SeonyuDo - botanical island located in the middle of the Han River. I first visited here back in October on a perfect Autumn day and loved it.

6. NamdaeMun - outdoor market with everything imaginable for sale. Cheap clothes and a wide variety of camping/hiking equipment are my favorite items to shop for. Also, it's common practice to negotiate the price by saying, "sagae jusayo!" which means "discount please".

Best Places to Travel in Korea:

1. Any National Park - there are 20 Korean National Parks and each one is uniquely different. Two of my favorites are SeorakSan and JiriSan. In particular, SeorakSan reminds me very much of Colorado and the Rocky Mountains. I love it.

2. The Southern Coastal Areas of Goeje Do and Namhae - sub-tropical climate and stunning mountain vistas surrounded by blue ocean. It offers a variety of fresh seafood and has a Mediterranean or Hawaiian feel to it.

3. OeDo (pronounced "WayDo") - located off the Eastern shores of GoejeDo, it's one of the most spectacular places I have visited in Korea. Too bad they only permit you one and a half hours to visit there.

4. Jeju Island - Korea's honeymoon island and most popular tourist destination outside of Seoul. It definitely has a Hawaiian feel to it with the dormant volcano and lava tubes, etc.

5. Any Buddhist Temple - usually they're located atop mountains and face South. Each has its own special history, and many date back some 1,500 years.

6. Nami Island - also known as The Nami Republic for mostly marketing purposes, it's still a beautiful garden isle in the middle of the BukHan River.

7. Busan - mainly because my Toledo friends live here and I've always managed to have a good time, it's still a beautiful coastal city with a different vibe than Seoul.

8. The Entire Eastern Coast - steep rocky cliffs and sandy beaches that stretch from Sokcho in the North to Busan in the South. All really beautiful.

Note: I like islands, so its no wonder four of my favorite destinations are islands. Three of these four are private botanical islands that charge an entrance fee, but they're worth the price of admission. Really though, any mountain or coastal area is strongly recommended.

Favorite Korean Foods:

1. Kimchi - it's true. I once read that many foreigners experience "kimchi withdrawal" after leaving Korea, and I expect I too will suffer from this. I know, the thought of fermented cabbage may not sound appetizing, but it truly is delicious, and there are countless varieties. Every restaurant serves at least 1-2 kinds of kimchi as a free side dish, and there literally is an unlimited supply. In addition to the never-ending deliciousness, it's extremely nutritious with a full day's vitamin C content in every serving.

2. Samgyeopsal - it literally means 3 layer pork and tastes like thick cut bacon. Most restaurants serve it for you to grill at your table, accompanied by a big bowl of sliced onions, raw garlic, kimchi, and lettuce leaves for wrapping. I recommend with sesame oil and salt for dipping. Note: also try Ohyeopsal (5 layer pork) for even more porky goodness.

3. Dakgalbi - spicy chicken grilled tableside, either in a large cast iron skillet or on a grill. Served in a spicy red sauce with dok, the traditional Korean rice cake, sweet potato, and green onions. Beware, it's hot!

4. Mandoo - best when served from the back of a truck in the early hours of the morning. Seriously. The Mandoo Truck is a popular late night fixture in my town serving these tiny steamed dumplings filled with either spicy kimchi or gogi (beef).

5. Bibimbap - big bowl of rice served with numerous side dishes. These side dishes are mostly vegetables or various forms of kimchi and are mixed together with the rice and a spicy red pepper paste for a delicious and healthy meal. Sometimes bulgogi (marinated beef) is added along with an egg for protein. The vegetables also represent different colors designed to complement each other and make the presentation more appealing.

6. Naengmyeon - cold buckwheat noodles served with an icy broth and vegetables, and topped with a boiled egg. I prefer bibim naengmyeom because of the spicy red pepper that is included.

Note: There is no tipping in most Korean restaurants, which helps make it affordable. More expensive restaurants, including most Western style restaurants, sometimes charge 10% for tax and tip. In addition to this, many restaurants feature a table buzzer to alert the waitstaff when you want something. This works well, or you can always shout "yogi-yo" (here please) to draw the attention of restaurant staff.

Favorite Korean Alcohol:

1. Black Beer Stout - Most Korean beer tastes like Coors Light, so it's refreshing to sample something that does not. Per the label: "Deep & Rich Premium Beer ~ Stout offers a rich black flavor topped with sweet, smooth & creamy head" Only available at select stores, it's sold in six packs or by the liter.

2. Makgeolli - semi-sweet fermented rice wine. Sold by the half liter, there are many different manufacturers, each with their own distinct taste. My favorite is Sang Makgeolli and is best when served with pajung or Korean style pancake. Also popular after hiking or enjoyed with friends atop a mountain.

3. Soju - it's probably my least favorite alcohol, but it's hard to ignore it's abundance. Really, it's everywhere and seems to be consumed always. It is the national drink of Korea and is most commonly consumed by the shot and with a group of friends or co-workers. This can also be mixed with mak-ju (beer) for a dangerous drink known as so-mak.

Note: Imported liquor is usually expensive, especially when ordering in a bar. Imported beers, including popular American brands, are also expensive (e.g. Budweiser is 5,000 Won per bottle). Wine is becoming popular and can be purchased for reasonable prices at the grocery store, though most Koreans prefer sweet wine, so it can sometimes be difficult to find reasonably priced, "decent" wine.

Favorite Korean Music:

1. Drunken Tiger - Award-winning rap group led by a Korean/American named Tiger JK. Korean pop music, including hip-hop is extremely popular nowadays. Most of it's garbage. Tiger JK is the best. (Drunken Tiger - 8:45 music video)

2. Girls Generation - their music is total crap, but the nine members are hot. (Girls Generation - Genie)

3. Wonder Girls - five member Korean pop group, they recently have become popular in the U.S. following a 2008 MTV documentary and their 2009 tour with the Jonas Brothers. Their music is a higher caliber than Girls Generation, and they're equally as hot. (Wonder Girls - Nobody)

Favorite Korean Television:

1. Il Bak I Ill (1 Night 2 Days) - Korean variety show every Sunday at 630pm on KBS. The plot; 6 Korean entertainers travel to a new destination each week and have to survive, competing in various games and contests to win food and shelter. It's extremely funny, even for a guy who understands very little Korean.

2. Gang Ho Dong - former Korean wrestler turned entertainer and host of Il Bak I Ill. He is one of the most successful Korean MC's and is very entertaining with everything he does. Even though I understand very little he says, he manages to always make me laugh. Recently on a special episode of Il Bak I Ill, he performed a duet with popular Korean singer Baek Ji Young. The original song is titled "My Ear's Candy" and is, of course, a kind of love song. Gang Ho Dong changed the lyrics to describe his love of samgyeopsal. (Baek Ji Young feat. Gang Ho Dong - My Ear's Pig)

3. Iris - KBS television drama which premiered last winter, it's the most expensive Korean drama to date filled with explosions, car chases, and lots of action. Season 1 starred popular Korean actor Lee Byung-hun (Stormshadow ~ G.I. Joe) and the beautiful Kim Tae-hee as South Korean spies in an international web of betrayal and deceit. Yes, it was broadcast in Korean without subtitles, but I didn't care. The Season 1 finale was a shocker with a huge surprise ending. (Iris - trailer)

Favorite Korean Movies:

(Actually, they're the only Korean movies I have seen)

1. Good Morning President - this movie follows three very different Korean presidents and the various issues that plague their presidencies. It's very funny at times, and is told from the perspective of the Presidential chef, who has a unique opportunity to witness each president during their most intimate moments.

2. Take Off - based on a true story, it's a comical tale of the first Korean ski jump team and their preparations for the 1998 Winter Olympics. I actually saw this in the theater without English subtitles so I had no idea what was said throughout most of the film, but I still enjoyed it.

3. Haeundae - I watched approximately 15 minutes before I turned it off. Despite my short attention span, it was a huge blockbuster, the first Korean disaster movie with Hollywood-style special effects.

Note: Korea has a long and rich history of filmmaking, dating back to the turn of the century. Since the mid 1990's, Korean movies have reached a unbelievable level of success, following the first non-government funded movie in 1992. In 2002, the first Korean film won second place at the Venice Film Festival and another won second place at Cannes the year following. Honestly speaking, I regret not watching more Korean films during my stay here.

Favorite Korean Cars:

1. Hyundai Genesis - winner of numerous automotive awards including the prestigious 2009 North American Car of the Year, it's available as a coupe or sedan. It was specifically designed to compete with more expensive European sedans and features rear wheel drive and a near 50/50 weight distribution. The V8 model does not appear in Korea, and even without this, Hyundai has been criticized for the 53 million Won starting price tag versus $33,000 in U.S.

2. Kia K7 - recently released as Kia's all new flagship sedan, it starts at around 30 million Won and is a cheaper alternative to the Genesis, yet priced more than other front-wheel drive sedans like the Hyundai Sonata or Renault-Samsung SM5. Look for it in the U.S. sometime in late 2010 or early 2011.

3. Hyundai Sonata - code name YF, it was first introduced to Korean customers in November 2009. Since then, it has been labeled the "Camry Killer" as Hyundai prepares for serious battle with Toyota. Sleek styling, high-tech electronics, and impressive fuel economy are among its best features. Price starts at 26 million Won, three million Won more than the previous model, which is a sore spot for most Korean buyers. U.S. price tag is $19,000 and up.

4. Equus - Hyundai's exclusive luxury line with a similar relationship as Lexus to Toyota. First introduced in 1999, there is only one model, the VS with its big V8 engine, and it's currently preparing for a U.S. debut sometime in late 2010. Korean price starts at around 80 million Won. U.S. price is projected in excess of $55,000.

5. Kia Soul - unique styling and a surprisingly spacious cabin, it's one of the top selling cars in the U.S. following the Cash For Clunkers program. Mostly due to it's affordable price tag, $14,000, and Kia's legendary 10 year warranty, it also features an impressive 30 mpg.

Note: Auto manufacturing is one of Korea's top five industries, and it remains a favorite subject of study for me. What's most impressive is Hyundai/Kia's explosive overseas growth during the past decade and it's current title as World's Fourth Largest Automaker. Equally impressive; it's recent focus on both quality and design, especially to U.S. buyers who continue to speculate over American brands and are now questioning Japanese quality. Besides this, the ultra-impressive 10 year warranty offered only to U.S. customers is impossible to compete with.

On the flip side, Korea's sixth-largest company faces increasing competition from other Korean automakers such as Renault-Samsung, GM-owned Daewoo, and Ssangyong Motors. In addition, Hyundai has faced harsh criticism from many Koreans who believe the company is focusing too much on overseas product growth at the expense of it's domestic market.

Things I Wish America Could Import from Korea:

1. NoraeBang - private singing rooms each with comfortable couch and your own karaoke machine. The TV's broadcast nature video clips and it truly is a great way to spend an afternoon or an evening with friends. Don't nock it till you try it.

2. 24 Hour Alcohol - Bars remain open until 6am and it's not uncommon to see people drinking into the early hours of the morning. Of course, this can be both a blessing and a curse.

3. Speed Cameras - almost all highways feature these instead of patrol vehicle enforcement. Even better, the cameras are well marked and Korean GPS devices (sold separately) notify you before with a warning if you are over the limit.

4. Public Transit System - at least in Seoul, the subway operates regularly (every 10 minutes on average) and the same with the buses. Cost is reasonable, usually 1,000-1,500 Won for a one way trip, and the T Money Card functions like a debit card. Load it with cash and it can be used for subway travel, bus transfer, and even some taxicabs throughout the country. It's tremendous. On the negative side, the subway stops at 1am during the week and 12am on weekends.

5. Heated Toilet Seats - complete with bidet and various wash functions. It's common to see this in people's homes or in posh restrooms, and they're ultra comfy.

The Worst

Worst Things About Living in Korea:

1. Crappy Internet Reception - mostly experienced in my apartment, so to say the entire country has poor service is unfair. After all, Korea boasts about exceptionally fast connection speed and proudly claims to be the most wired country in the world. Regardless, I cannot manage to get a strong signal in my apartment to save my life. It has seriously been the most aggravating part of my time here.

2. My Apartment - I live in an eight story office building. My apartment is approximately 10'X25'. I was the only resident until about three months ago, when a young Korean couple moved into the apartment next door. Most people cannot believe my accommodations when I tell them where I live. The school once tried to tell me it is upscale for teacher accommodations. It most definitely is not.

3. Split Shifts - Teaching adults is great. I chose to do this with full knowledge of the work schedule, and honestly speaking, I would probably choose it again. The schedule, however, is brutal with 4-5 hours sleep each night, and a 2-3 hour nap every afternoon.

4. Pushing on the Subway and Elevators - I've mentioned this before, and it remains a frustrating aspect of Korean life. There is no personal zone to speak of. Be prepared to be shoved, or to shove your way through a large crowd. Don't be shy about it. Others aren't, why should you.

5. Public Restrooms - most are dirty and lack toilet paper. Some lack paper towels and soap and are extremely cold because the windows are always kept open. Others reek of stale cigarette smoke despite the fact they are clearly labeled as "Non-Smoking". Even more disgusting, it is common practice in Korea to dispose of used toilet paper in a trash can next to the toilet. Yuck!

6. Suicidal Delivery Drivers on Motorbikes - they're f***ing crazy and have no shame. Sidewalks are open roads for motorbikes and traffic laws have no significance. Watch your back and check your mirrors more than once.

7. Spitting in Public - it's disgusting but very common to see this. Even though I have been told it's considered rude amongst most Koreans, and it may even be illegal, everyone seems to do it. I've witnessed little old ladies clearing their throats and spitting on the sidewalk. People also do not seem to care where they spit. Inside buildings, restaurants, elevators, or even the subway; it's all fair game. Really, it's that bad.

Least Favorite Korean Foods:

1. Soondae - Korean version of blood sausage. It's pronounced similar to "sundae", so I was most confused the first time I was introduced to this.

2. Silkworm Larvae - I have never tried this and I never will. However, it remains a Korean favorite.

3. Dried Squid - sold in every convenience store as a snack food, it's also popular at sporting events such as Korean baseball games and soccer matches. It looks like dried squid and smells like dried squid. Yuck!

4. Dog - it's not as common as it once was in Korea, though I am told it still exists. Obviously, I have never tried this and I don't intend to. Many Koreans feel the same way.

Note: Surprisingly, many Korean foods feature the something you never expect to find in a country known for it's centuries-old culinary traditions; mayonnaise. Even more surprising is the reaction when restaurant staff learn some Americans do not actually like mayonnaise. A perfect example of a normal food with this surprise ingredient; pizza. First of all, Korean pizza features some of the most bizarre toppings like shellfish, squid, sweet potato, fruits, and many others. Top it off with a drizzle of mayonnaise and you have one messed up pizza. Serve it with a side of sweet pickles and a once loved favorite food can become extremely hated.

I despise mayonnaise, pronounced "mayo-naiz-e", and it's especially difficult to learn 1) how to properly pronounce the word, 2) how to ask for sandwiches, hot dogs, salads, and many other "western" foods without this troublesome topping, and 3) learn to manage the reaction most staff give you when special ordering. McDonald's is a fine example, as is Quizno's, Subway, and Mr. Wow Hot Dog. The worst experience I suffered; a fruit salad with what appeared to be a sweet-yogurt dressing. Nope, sure enough, it was mayonnaise.

Strange Korean Phenomena:

1. Korean Fan Death - it's true. Koreans really believe that people can die from sleeping in a room with the fan on. Despite your best efforts to argue the point, including scientific evidence against this, their strong belief remains.

2. Writing in Red Ink - this is reserved only for names of the dead.

3. Avoid the Number 4 - it sounds similar to the Chinese word for 'death', which is never a good thing.

Things I Wish Korea Could Import from America:

1. Mexican Food - it's available in Seoul, but it's rare. There are only two chain restaurants I know of; Tomatillo Grille and On The Border. What's most surprising about its absence is the similarity between Korean and Mexican foods, mostly the fresh vegetables and spicy peppers. They have no idea what they're missing.

2. Microbrews - imported beers are available in western bars, though expensive. Microbrews are noticeably absent.

3. Medium to Large Dogs - 99% of dogs in Korean are miniature and wear clothes. It's disgusting. Even worse, they are carried around like children and can be found in the arms of women in department stores and grocery stores.

4. Smoking bans and Enforcement of these policies - even though it is illegal to smoke in public buildings, it's very common to witness people defying these laws, mostly because the government does not enforce this. To say Korea is one big ashtray is an unnecessary and extreme exaggeration, but it sometimes feels this way when people smoke in elevators, public restrooms, etc.

5. Cruise Control - yes, it's true. Cruise control is illegal in Korea so nearly all Korean cars lack this feature. This makes maintaining a constant speed through the many speed cameras on the highway difficult at times, and you don't miss it till its gone.

6. Car Seats for Children - I know it's difficult to believe, but it's true. Parents hold their infant children on their laps while traveling in cars. Shocking in every regard, considering the dangers we all know exist when driving.

I'm sure there are many other things I am forgetting. I've tried to remain positive in my reporting, and mostly, it is positive. Please forgive me if I sound otherwise, but there are obvious cultural differences I simply do not understand. In turn, I'm sure many people cannot understand some of my behaviors as well.

Welcome to Korea.

April News

It's been a busy couple weeks here in Korea, to say the least. Even though I haven't started packing yet, I have been super busy fulfilling many of the things I have wanted to do prior to leaving the country. This and the weather has finally started to be more spring-like with warmer temperatures during the day and chilly nights, which does wonders for one's spirits.

My April class schedule is also very accommodating. I teach four classes on Monday and Wednesday, but only two classes Tuesday and Thursday. This means I finish teaching at 10:30 a.m. Awesome.

My students remain great. Many of the students who have been with me for several months will end the month with me, and some have met me outside class to celebrate my impending departure. What a way to finish the year.

I have managed to sell some of my belongings, namely my guitar, computer speakers, two chairs from my apartment, and the plastic storage containers I originally purchased for clothes storage. I still have two bookcases, a coat tree, shoe rack, leather couch, and rug for sale should anyone reading this be interested.

My stitches were removed last Monday and my finger continues to heal nicely, though a small scar is noticeable on my fingertip. The stitches came out easier than they went in, and this time I managed to avoid passing out.

Temple Visit:

Gemma and I visited Bo Mun Sa in Seoul. We met with a female monk who served traditional Korean tea in ceremonial tea serving and discussed with us the intricacies of Buddhism. Tea is one of Buddha's six original offerings (tea, scent, flowers, lanterns, fruit, rice) and it is to be imbibed with all five senses: 1) hear the sound of the boiling tea water, 2) see the light's reflection in the tea vessel, 3) feel the warmth of the tea, 4) smell its scent, and 5) finally, taste the tea.

Bo Mun Sa has a rich history; located in Seoul and dating back to 1115 A.D., its the high temple of the Bomun order of Korean Buddhism, the world's only order of Buddhist nuns. Inside the temple grounds are two notable relics. The first is a large stone statue of the Buddha enshrined in a stone and glass cavern. The second is a nine story pagoda with divine significance; relics of the Buddha's teeth and bones are said to reside here.

Our friend the monk was most generous with her time, meeting with us for nearly three hours and leading us on a guided tour of the temple grounds. My favorite part of the experience, however, was the detailed lesson she provided me concerning tea service and preparation, and allowing me to sit in her seat following the tea ceremony. Apparently, this is a rare honor and is not a common occurrence when visiting a temple.

First Baseball Experience:

I finally made it to a Korean baseball game. It was great fun. On April 10, the Doosan Bears played the LG Twins. After six and a half innings, the Bears captured the lead and maintained this to win 3-2. Our seats were fantastic; they were furnished by my good friend, Mr. Gu, who works for Doosan Engineering and has access to the company's best seats. We were three rows behind home plate in an exclusive seating area so we could share picnic style lunch dinner and numerous rounds of beer and soju. Wow!

Unlike American baseball games, there are only eight teams in the Korean Baseball Organization. Most teams have their own stadium, except for Doosan and LG who share Jamsil Stadium. This is part of the greater Olympic Sports Complex, a large athletic park and leftover relic from the 1988 Seoul games. The stadium is smaller than most modern day U.S. stadiums, but the seating is close to the playing field so it has an intimate feel. Because the stadium is shared by two rival teams, the LG fans were seated along the third baseline and the Bears fans occupied the first base side.

Like all baseball games, draft beer was served by a rotating beer man, and lots of cheering was evident. "The wave" was also seen at times, as were the popular thunder sticks. Sadly, the seventh-inning stretch was missing along with the traditional singing of "Take Me Out To The Ballgame". Korean baseball fans have no idea what they're missing out on.

Best part of the experience were the Doosan cheerleaders, who apparently are famous throughout Korea for their good looks and sexy attire. Yes, they were entertaining to watch between innings, and it is worth mentioning that cheerleaders should have a place in baseball. Even the traditional "batboys" were staffed by cute females.

Final Korean Trip:

Gemma and I traveled to the Southern coastal areas of NamHae and Goeje Do for what was my final Korean trip. Some may say save the best for last, and this may be true. Everything was spectacular. In particular, the cherry blossoms were at their peak blossom and it added spectacular color to the entire weekend. We departed Sanbon at 11am Thursday morning and retuned home Sunday night around 10pm; approximately 83 hours and 1,200 kilometers later. Here is our story.

Our first destination was Namhae. Namhae is one of four principle islands located along the Southern coast of South Korea. We arrived just in time to secure a pension in the sleepy little village of Hongyeon, located along a beautiful bay. My favorite part of Namhae was the mountain coastal road, local road 1024, between Honghyeon-ri and Seongu-ri. It's the kind of hair-raising road with many blind corners, where one wrong turn or a careless mistake can lead to almost certain death as you careen over the edge of the road. Yes, it's dangerous, but oh so beautiful.

Namhae - see the photos

Thursday morning we left Namhae for Goeje Do. Along the way we stopped at Boriam Temple, located atop beautiful Geum Mountain. This mountain towers over NamHae at 681 meters, and affords commanding views of the South Sea and nearly all of the Southern coastline. It is because of this strategic location, that a smoke signal station was constructed back in 1150 A.D. and served as the Southern-most beacon to warn the Korean army of Japanese pirate attacks. According to historical information, one bright or smoky fire was lit in times of peace, two when the enemy was seen on sea, three when the enemy approached the shore, four when the enemy engaged in sea battle, and five when the enemy landed on the shore.

The trip to the top of the mountain takes about two hours on foot from the base, or you can follow the super-steep, transmission-burning, one and a half lane road to the parking lot located just one kilometer from the temple at the summit. This was our chosen route. Boriam Temple is one of the most famous ancient Buddhist temples in Korea. It was originally constructed in 683 A.D. and is said to enshrine relics of Buddha originally brought over from India. There is a three story stone pagoda which, apparently, was built using geomantic principles believed to ward off bad energy.

Boriam Temple - see the photos

Between NamHae and Goeje lies the city of Tongyeong, formerly known as Chungmu. It connects with Goeje Do via a long bridge. This area boasts over 150 islands, and apparently, is regarded as one of the most beautiful ports in Korea. Besides being a centuries-old naval command post and the site of numerous naval conflicts, the area is famous for Chungmu Kimbap, a local variation of Kimbap served with marinated squid and pickled radish. Delicious! It is also here that the famous Korean turtle ship is said to have originated back in the 14th Century.

Goeje Do is the second largest island in Korea behind Jeju Do and is located in the South Sea relatively close to Busan. Goeje island is approximately 383 square kilometers and features several mountain peaks and natural harbors. It's biggest feature is Hallyeohaesang National Park, one of four marine-based national parks in Korea, and it extends along 120 kilometers of pristine shoreline. The scenery is absolutely gorgeous and parts of it reminded me very much of Hawaii with its steep mountain peaks surrounded by blue blue ocean. The subtropical climate complete with palm trees help reinforce this comparison, and the views from our pension in the seaside village of Gujora were spectacular.

Goeje Do - see the photos

Fishing is the centuries old industry on the island, however, its modern day industrial base is shipbuilding. In particular, Goeje is home to the vast shipyards of Samsung Heavy Industries and Daewoo Heavy Industries. Both companies not only fuel the local economy with 14 trillion Won of business each year ($11 billion), but also employ thousands of workers. These workers live in company built housing, which have become cities in themselves. It's amazing to see just how large these shipyards and their surrounding communities are.

Because of this, it is also understandable why there is currently a second bridge and new highway system under construction linking Goeje to Busan, the country's second largest city. When completed later this year, this Busan-Goeje Fixed Link will reduce congestion and travel time from more than three hours to about 40 minutes. Total cost of the project is estimated in excess of 2 trillion Won ($1.8 billion).

Perhaps my favorite part of the journey was OeDo Botannical Gardens. OeDo (pronounced "Way Doe") is a private island located off the Eastern shores of Goeje Do. The owners, a couple who have cared for the property since 1969, maintain pristine gardens filled with more than 3,000 rare and sub-tropical plants. It's a 15 minute boat ride from Goeje Do and the cost of admission is around 8,000 Won plus the 16,000 Won ferry boat ride. Originally, I had not planned on visiting here, but several of my students convinced me otherwise. I'm so thankful they did.

OeDo - see the photos

Four days in the car is a lot of driving. It's roughly five hours travel time from Sanbon to the Southern coast and Namhae, which we completed Thursday afternoon. Friday's drive was around four hours plus many stops, including Boriam Temple, GeumSan, and Tongyeong, all of which are located between Namhae and Goeje. Saturday was spent circumnavigating the entire island of Goeje, including the two and a half hours associated with OeDo. I suppose the entire island of Goeje can be driven in two to three hours, but this schedule does not permit stopping for photos, lunch, etc. These frequent stops can extend the travel time by three or more hours.

Total cost of the 4 day trip was around 700,000 Won as follows:

Gas - 200,000 Won (100,000 Won x2 fill-ups)

Highway Tolls - 30,000 Won

3 nights Lodging - 200,000 Won

Groceries (we cooked dinner two nights) - 100,000 Won

Restaurants - 100,000 Won

Sightseeing Expenses - 70,000 Won

After reviewing these figures, and comparing this to other trips I have taken in Korea, I can definitely say it is far more economical to travel via train or bus. Unfortunately, gas is expensive in Korea as are highway tolls. Depending on your destination, this will often leave you stranded in rural areas without the ability to see the many out-of-the-way sights. But any experienced traveler will agree, these are often the best parts of a journey. So there is a price for freedom and flexibility.

Conclusion: if you want to see rural Korea, travel with friends. Share the expense. Fill the car (and the trunk) with as many people as possible. Otherwise, stay on the main roads and take the more economical bus or train.

With less than two weeks remaining, that's about all I have to report. The final days will be busy packing, selling my remaining furniture and apartment furnishings, and saying goodbye to friends. It's bittersweet, to say the least, and of course my sadness associated with leaving Korea is replaced by the joys of returning home.

KOREA Week XXXXIX

It seems as if my time in Korea would not be complete without another visit to the hospital. Or so, that's what they told me.

Late Sunday afternoon, I sliced my finger while opening a can of olives. Yes, a can of olives. I was almost finished cooking a delicious pasta when the accident occurred, causing me to abandon the cooking efforts and head to the local hospital. This was, in fact, my third visit in eleven months.

After a tetnis shot and an x-ray, the doctors prepared me for my stitches. Because the fingertips are one of the most sensitive parts of the body, this was not easy and it required anesthetic via a long needle to the fingertip. Not pleasant. In fact, it turned out to be a series of three shots, not just one, and I'm convinced the doctor did not properly do this. It was so uncomfortable that I passed out during the third needle shot to the finger, causing the ER staff to rush to my side with an oxygen tube and other accoutrements. Nice!

Seven stitches and 45,000 Won later, I left Sanbon hospital having vowed to never return there. I later learned that in Korea, it's twice as expensive to visit the ER on weekends. I also learned about something called "Sunday Doctors", a somewhat affectionate term for the interns who staff local hospitals on the weekends in place of the actual doctors.

Other news:

Lots of movie watching going on here. Greenzone, From Paris With Love, Julie & Julia, The Soloist, Shutter Island, and many others.

Just in case anyone was wondering, McDonald's hotcakes are sausage breakfast tastes the same in Korea as it does back home. At 4,500 Won, the cost is also the same. Regrettably, I am just now learning this.

I visited a new hamburger restaurant in Itaewon after reading about it in Seoul Eats, a local food blog I subscribe to. Two Broz. offers a pretty damn good hamburger at semi-reasonable prices. I paid around 11,000 Won for a good-size burger, fries, and a coke. It's definitely better than my recent attempts at hamburger consumption, namely Chili King, though the fries are crinkle cut which I don't especially like. Two Broz. may even be better than Kraze Burger, which has been my favorite Korean attempt at fast food.

I keep reading about Five Guys Burgers & Fries back in the U.S. and I'm eager to experience this when I return. Actually, I'm eager to experience many things when I get home.

The weather continues to be unseasonably cold in Seoul. Spring has not yet arrived, though many students promise me warmer temperatures within the next two weeks. I hope they're right.

KOREA Week XXXXVIII

Thursday, March 25, 2010

The good news; I have booked my return airfare and should soon have tickets in hand. It's a nice feeling to have a departure date (May 3), and I'm excited to count down the days. The bad news; there is much to do prior to leaving.

Sadly, I did not make it to Busan this past weekend. No reuniting with friends and no celebrations. The official reason; I woke up too late Friday morning and there was too much to do prior to leaving. That and I was not feeling 100% in the days prior to the weekend. Instead of another fine Busan adventure, I enjoyed a relaxing weekend of sleep and movie watching.

Yellow Dust:

In Korea and much of East Asia, there is something called Hwangsa, or Yellow Dust. Apparently, it originates in the Gobi Desert of Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and Northern China. The seasonal winds carry this very fine dust in the Spring and Summer months toward Korea and it's people. Furthermore, it picks up many industrial pollutants along the Eastern coastline of China, thus making it a nasty mixture that wreaks havoc on the country.

I experienced this last week, when I awoke one morning with a sore throat. At first I thought I was getting sick, then I learned about this meteorological phenomena. The Koreans often complain about this, and I was told the dreadful surgical mask is strongly encouraged on high Hwangsa days.

I have read that last Saturday was among the worst Hwangsa days, and literally, the dust filled sky was an amber color. It was an eerie sight. The day following, a very fine yellow/brown dust was recognizable on nearly every surface, window pane, and automobile. It's disgusting.

The Average Seoul Resident:

According to a recent article published in The Korea Times, the average Seoul resident is 37 years old and works an average of 46 hours per week. Monthly salary is 3.6 million Won and they spend around 2.8 million Won per month. This, obviously, is the so-called middle class, which accounts for 6 out of 10 households.

The cost of private education, which has grown at around 20 percent annually, is around 580,000 Won per month for tutoring and after school hagwons for their children. I have read other reports that suggest this figure can sometimes be well above 2 million Won per month. Either way, the figure remains a staggeringly high number, and is one of the highest of any developed nation.

Every day in Seoul there are an average of 106 deaths, 197 marriages, 264 births, and 249 people obtain a driver's license. The birthrate is actually a decrease of around 3,700 from the previous year, which continues to be a perplexing social problem.

Single family households has increased 66 percent since 1999 as the marriage rate fell to its lowest level ever in 2009. In turn, the average age of first-time grooms and brides continues to rise and is currently 31 years old for men and 29 years old for women.

Economic News:

Recently, a U.S. economist projected the cost of a North/South Korean unification at $1.7 trillion. This is only slightly higher than last year's Credit Suisse projection of $1.5 trillion. Both figures are nearly double the South Korean GDP of around $930 billion. Obviously, it is suggested that any unification would benefit the North more than the South, and South Korea would, of course, bear the brunt of this expense.

McDonald's recently announced their ambitious plans to quadruple the number of restaurants in Korea., There are currently 237 stores, which makes it the second-largest burger chain following Lotteria, Korea's own fast-food hamburger chain with 800 stores nationwide. According to their press release, McDonald's says Korea is the wealthiest market where they don't have at least 1,000 stores.

Following the conclusion of the 2010 Winter Olympics, estimates suggest that Korea will earn nearly $18 billion (20 trillion Won) in economic effects and intangible value from their strong performance during the games. Wow! The intangible value includes a heightened sense of pride, stronger Korean culture and artistic self-confidence. In addition, many believe this will help increase Korea's opportunity to host the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.

The economic value of Yuna Kim's gold medal in women's figure skating alone is valued at over 5 trillion Won, and she will serve as an ambassador to the Pyeongcheong host committee.

Korean baseball is back, as the season officially opened last week. I have yet to make it to a game, though it's on my short list for next month. Strangely, as popular as baseball is in Korea, it is not a profitable business. Six of eight teams reported losses in 2008, and it is estimated each team annually loses between 15-20 billion Won (almost $20 million) on baseball operations. In fact, since the league started in 1982, it's been more of a publicity gig for the corporate-owned and named teams.

Thats about it, really. The clock continues to tick...

March News

Less than two months to go..

Late February/early March brought unusually warm temperatures to the Korean Peninsula. Perhaps it was a bit premature to indulge in the warmth, but damn it felt good. It was especially nice to open the windows in the apartment and get outside and run.

Sadly, less than two weeks later, the premature nature of the "false spring" proved true with return to more winter-like temperatures and a light snowfall March 8th. Damn!

Recent holidays:

Apparently, in Korea, along with Taiwan and Japan, they celebrate Valentine's Day on February 14, and something called White Day one month later on March 14. I guess the idea behind this is Valentines Day is for the men to indulge themselves with gifts and attention from women, and women, in turn, indulge themselves with gifts from men on White Day. Go figure.

March 3rd was Samgyeopsal Day, an informal Korean holiday. Because "Sam" means three in Korea, the date is obvious. Samgyeopsal is "3 layer pork". I was completely oblivious to this, but once I learned of the holiday, I celebrated with a scrumptious lunch of my favorite Korean food. Besides, who doesn't love delicious pork grilled table side with all the traditional accompaniments? Lunch or dinner, it's all good with me!

March 1st was Korean Independence Movement Day. This date marks a significant event in Korean history, when 33 nationalists marched against Japanese occupation in 1919. The nationalists were later arrested, tortured, and this event sparked an outrage amongst the Korean people. To the Koreans, it's just one more incident in a long history of hatred against Japanese atrocities.

The March 1st holiday meant another 3 day weekend for Ethan, so I returned to the Taean Peninsula, only this time with a car. Last time I visited the area was in August (Week XVI) with my former friend Alvin, prior to his expulsion from the country. Because we only had public transit at that time, we were limited to our campground at Mongsanpo Beach and we could not thoroughly explore the area. It was especially uncomfortable on the ride home, when Alvin and I had to stand for over three hours on the bus. Following this bus ride from hell, I vowed to return one day under more comfortable circumstances.

Following a three hour car ride with moderate traffic and light rain, Gemma and I arrived in Mallipo late Saturday afternoon, just in time to select accommodations prior to the sun setting. After about an hour of comparing various beachfront pensions, we finally selected the Pinocchio Pension. It was a near perfect setting, and my travel partner was somehow able to convince the owner to provide us with a 20% discount for two nights stay. Hooray!

Mallipo is a beachfront community located approximately 175 kilometers Southwest of Seoul, at the Northern tip of the Taean Peninsula. The entire peninsula features some 530 kilometers of coastline and contains some 120 islands. A large part of the area consists of the Taean Coast National Marine Park, which boasts 230 kilometers of shoreline and 72 islands of its own. The topography is composed of low pine-filled mountains, large sandy beaches, and rocky cliffs overlooking the ocean. It's really beautiful, and as I previously noted, reminds me a lot of Northern Michigan.

Numerous fishing villages dot the area and serve as both a tourist attraction and a great place for seafood lunch. Squid is popular, as is hameltang, a shellfish noodle dish served in a hot broth. Batter dipped and fried prawns are also a treat, and can be purchased from a variety of street vendors. I chose to avoid most dried fish, including the scary alien-looking fish and the ever-popular Korean favorite, dried squid.

The Chollipo Arboretum is another well-known attraction, located only a few kilometers from Mallipo. I first learned about this in a Wall Street Journal travel article back in May 2009, and since then, I have always wanted to visit. The article titled Seoul: One Man's Dream of a World Class Arboretum is worth the time to read it, and actually, that's what originally introduced me to the Taean area. Sadly, the weather was uncooperative the day we intended to visit there, though I did strongly evaluate this decision in the parking lot, and I took a brochure from the park prior to leaving.

Total cost of the weekend adventure was around 300,000 Won, which included gas (60,000 Won), two nights lodging (160,000 Won with discount), groceries at E-Mart and meals. Not bad for a euphoric weekend and some quality time with the lovely Gemma. The highlight of all this was spotting the semi-naked elderly couple in the backseat of an SUV parked at Mongsanpo Beach. That was a true surprise.

Other news:

I reunited again with former student and good friend, B.H. for BBQ dinner and good conversation. After dinner, he invited me to his home for coffee, which is a beautiful luxury apartment in the town of Suji. I also was fortunate to meet his wife for the first time. Sadly, I fear it will only be possible for B.H. and I to gather again one or two times before I depart for the U.S.

On a recent trip to COEX Mall, I noticed that Crazy Heart was showing at the theater and decided to watch it. This was only my fifth experience at the Korean cinema. Previous films included last year's Star Trek, Avatar (in 3-D), 2012 (I regret watching this), and the Korean film Take Off.

Lately I have been suffering an extreme longing for Western food. Please don't mistake my words, I very much love Korean food, it's just I'm tired of the same old restaurants in Sanbon. This has led me to several new restaurants in Seoul.

Mad For Garlic is pretty much what the name suggests; garlic everything! It's a Korean chain with 11 locations and an impressive wine list, for Korean standards. For an appetizer, we ordered a large caesar salad, pretty much traditional with a creamy garlic dressing, and crunchy croutons. Most delicious, and we agreed it was the best part of the meal. A thin crust cheese with pizza gorgonzola and a pasta dish loaded with garlic and Mexican spices were shared for the main course. The pizza was good, but the pasta was overwhelmingly spicy. Total cost of the food was around 45,000 Won plus tax. A bit on the expensive side, but unfortunately, that's the price you pay for Western food in Korea.

Chili King Korea is located in Itaewon, the infamous foreigner neighborhood of Seoul. I first read about it in an article published in The Korea Herald, which can be a great way to learn about different restaurants throughout Seoul. Sadly, both Gemma and I were a little disappointed in The Chili King. The burger was not as delicious as my local favorite, Krazy Burger, and the chili cheese fries were a poor attempt with crinkle cut fries, a tiny portion of chili, and "cheese" from a squeeze bottle. The restaurant is a tiny shoebox located off an alley, and the owner enjoys singing to an assorted sampling of classic 80's music while preparing your food. All this has a cost of around 30,000 Won. Not a good investment and a poor attempt at satisfying a grown man's craving for some chili.

Sorrento Pizza and Pasta is the surprise hit of the season. I have now sampled both their margherita pizza and their gorgonzola pizzas. Each are an excellent creation, loaded with cheese and priced around 14,000 Won. The gorgonzola is also topped with salty potato chips, which gives it a little crunch and some added flavor. Honestly speaking, this pizza is better tasting than the similarly-priced version at Mad For Garlic.

That's about it. Next weekend is another three day holiday from school, and I am planning a reunion with my friends in Busan. Following this, I'm sure there will be lots to report.

KOREA Week XXXXV

A sampling of random events over the past month or so..

On February 9 there was a 3.0 magnitude earthquake felt throughout Korea. It's epicenter was about 20 kilometers from my home, and I was delighted to experience my first earthquake. Actually, it felt like a large truck passed by the building or some type of vibration from construction. My enthusiasm was short lived, however, when friends in Chicago reported a 4.1 magnitude earthquake the very next day.

Recently, I went bowling for the first time in Korea and yours truly bowled a surprising 173 in the first game. Not bad for almost a year away from the game. Bowling in Korea is surprisingly comparable to bowling back in the states, aside from the velcro bowling shoes which not only fit a little to snug but also come out of a vending machine, bowling balls which read "Made in China", and a surprisingly lack of alcohol service. Even more surprising, the staff do not appreciate it when the patrons attempt to sneak in bottles of beer.

Lately I have been enjoying some Elmore Leonard novels I purchased from a foreign teacher friend who recently departed for Thailand. Elmore Leonard is one of the best and five paperback novels for 20,000 Won is a great value.

One late night two drunken Korean men commented to Gemma that I looked a lot like Bruce Willis. As funny as this may seem, I have heard both this and Kiefer Sutherland countless times in Korea. What was even more funny, after the drunken men stumbled off Gemma proceeded to tell me how much she hates it when people say that. When I asked why, she told me because I don't look anything like Bruce Willis. Fair enough. Then who do I look like? I don't know, she says, maybe Robin Williams. Thanks for that, but I think I prefer Bruce Willis.

Two weeks ago, on a relatively warm (35 Fahrenheit) afternoon, Gemma and I walked the entire length of Cheonggye Stream. (Click here for a brief video on Cheonggye Stream courtesy of The NY Times) It's total length is 11.5 kilometers as it winds its way through central Seoul. Ever since my first visit to the stream back in June, I have been fascinated with it and have wanted to complete the walk. And with only two months remaining in Korea, I choose this Valentine's Day to drag my surprisingly enthusiastic Korean girlfriend to join me for the trip.

See the photos.

Cheonggye Stream begins near Gwanghamun, the center of many government offices and famous scenes of public protest. The area has a rich history beginning in the Joseon Dynasty around 1400 AD through its modern day use, following its comprehensive restoration project in 2004. What I like best about the stream, aside from its history and it significance to the Korean people, is how a 11.5 kilometer long green space can exist in the middle of one of the largest, busiest, and most densely packed cities in the world. At the end of the stream is the Han River and Seoul Forest, the second largest park in the city. Both are truly great; a recommendation for any Seoul visitor, best in summer, but can be enjoyable any time of year.

Olympic news:

The 2010 Winter Olympics have come and gone. What a fantastic two weeks it was! It was especially exciting to follow the games while abroad. I most assuredly cheered for the U.S. athletes, including the Men's Hockey team, though I was secretly pleased with the success of the Korean athletes who finished in seventh place overall with a total of 14 medals.

The Korean speed skaters enjoyed a tremendous success, and the Korean hatred toward Apolo Anton Ohno, was hard to ignore. It seems their hostility following the unfortunate incident at the 2002 Olympic games is not forgotten. I must admit, however, that many Koreans did not seem too interested in the games other than the profound success of the Korean speed skaters and, of course, Yuna Kim.

A couple words about Yuna Kim. First of all, at only 20 years of age, she is Korea's darling sweetheart and Korea's highest paid athlete. It is reported she made nearly $10 million last year in endorsements, and it is easy to believe this when you see her photo pasted throughout the country, advertising everything from milk to air conditioners. Really, she is that popular. I also heard she was the second highest paid athlete at the Winter games, second only to Shaun White.

Best of all, she is a Sanbon native and graduate of Suri High School. In fact, many of my students live in the same apartment complex as her family or have children who graduated with her. Of course, she no longer lives in Sanbon, and has called Toronto home for the past four years. Nonetheless, she remains a national hero, and one week following her gold medal, Yuna Fever is in full effect.

Ethan's brief ranting:

KB Bank, the nation's largest bank, shut down all their banking services last week while they updated their computer systems. I was told they sent a text message to their Korean customers informing them of their intentions. Unfortunately, they failed to notify their English speaking customers of this interruption, thus leaving many foreigners stranded without use of their bank card or access to ATM services. James, my American co-teacher, told me he was without cash and had no means of purchasing anything on the day this occurred. I, fortunately, was carrying enough cash when my card was declined at a restaurant that day. I also have a second account at a different bank I was able to use that day.

Since this incident originally occurred, there have been many opportunities to discuss the implications of this. Consensus is myself and many others find it inexcusable that the bank would experience such an oversight. With over one million foreigners living in Korea, that's a substantial enough number to warrant comprehensive banking services to all customers, regardless of nationality or language. Especially when you consider the fact that most bank employees speak English and are more than capable of providing adequate warning to their English speaking customers when their banking services will be interrupted.

Sorry to sound so negative, but this incident makes me think about just how dependent we foreigners are on so many different levels while living abroad. This, and, we probably take too many things for granted. Monthly paychecks and basic banking services are two that come to mind. Without access to cash, we are powerless and cannot do much of anything. Without Korean friends or a helpful school manager, it becomes even more difficult to survive.

So lesson learned; keep adequate cash on hand at all times, don't lose your passport or other important documents, and always keep a wealth of Korean friends on standby. You never know when you will need their assistance.

And keep on keeping on...